Erich's Water Cooler

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Being the cheap, yet adventuresome overclocker I wanted water cooling w/o the cost and hassle of ordering it online. I also like to make things myself as I find it more fulfilling. Here’s how I did it:

I bought a 500 gph bilge pump for boats going through 3/4″ I.D. tubing to the CPU with icy water (10+ gallons stored in an igloo cooler). This is a HIGH pressure system!

PVC Block

PVC Block

The CPU block is a lapped PPGA Celeron 466 epoxy’d to a specially modified and lapped 486 heatsink, capped off with a PVC block. The heatsink’s fins are inside the PVC block, and the heatsink’s base is exposed to mount it on the CPU. The PVC block contains the top of the heatsink and I mounted intake and exhaust pipes in the PVC block for water passage.

I put the heatsink inside the PVC block rather than mount the PVC block straight to the CPU like others have done, I did it this way to avoid direct water contact to the CPU and to increase metal to water surface area by about 8 times. The heatsink goes straight on the Celeron. Since making a suitable strap with enough strength was too much effort, I simply expoxy’d the heatsink straight onto the Celeron – very permanent! It works perfectly.

The block has the 3/4″ inlet on the top and 4 3/8″ copper outlet tubes coming out the top corners of the block. The copper tubes are connected to vinyl tubes that run back to the igloo cooler.

I also have a nice peltier that I could incorporate into this but I am satisfied with 700 MHz right now from my 466 Celeron. It was a nice Malay retail version which is now cooled to about 20 degrees Celsius. I also mounted some well-positioned fans that take the case temp down to 22 degrees Celsius.

Oh yeah, also check out how I drilled so new holes in that power supply so
I could mount it externally to the case. I had to do that to get the whole water cooler assembly in the case. Yes, I run the case as an open setup and yes, I took the power supply apart before drilling the holes too 🙂

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