another case painting question...

[rpckvv]

ok, here are some more questions...

we're going to get some more spraypaint in a few minutes, but before we go, i'd like to ask a few more questions, so we dont screw this up...

1. the first time we sprayed the real color (in our case, black), we got weird veiny lines protruding from the surface...they only came up in certain spots along the case (the indentions, far back), so its not like its the whole case, but this is definately not what we want...after sanding, all the paint in that area is gone (maybe not all, but there are definately spots where there is primer showing up between the black color in a veiny fashion)...what causes this and how can we fix it? i have a feeling that it is due to oil or grease, whether already there or on our hands, but i'm not sure...

2. how does one spray evenly, so that lines are not visible on the case...i mean when you look at the panel, there are some spots that obviously got more paint than others...and when we sand, these lines do not go away, so it's either the way the paint was applied or how much paint was applied...either way, i dont like these lines and would like them to begone...we used an old case as a test and found that when we sprayed from far away and in a chaotic (or at least more chaotic than with the regular pieces) fashion, these lines would not show up...more or less, the question should be: how does one spray correctly?

3. there is no 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sandpaper in town...we called body shops, etc etc but could only find 800 grit max...we may go get this, but i was figuring something...if we just used 600 and then jumped to what i can only translate as polishing towel (although it is just like sandpaper, not like a towel...probably in the range of 3000 grit or more...not sure though) that should do the trick as long as we sand really well with the "polishing towel"...we also have something along the lines of rubbing compound, but that goes on last....question in short form again: will simply more sanding with this "polishing towel" fill in the gap between 600 and 2000?`

4. short this time...is it better to wet-sand with alot of liquid on the surface or little? i figure more because it is easier (motion-wise) and the paper clogs up less, but it doesnt seem to take away much paint (i know i dont want to take away alot, but what i mean is that friction is VERY low)...

5. we dont have rubbing alcohol or whatever, but we do have some alcohol products in the house (no, not beer)...they contain alot of alcohol and i was wondering if it would be ok to rub the surfaces down with this instead of what was recommended on the sticky in order to remove all grease, whatever from the surface...

6. pertaining to plastic...i want to get a shiny finish on the front plastic piece as well...would i go about getting there in the same fashion as perscribed in the sticky or should i do this differently? i mean is it ok to sand down the plastic (wouldnt scratches be more pronounced?) and do it like that?

7. after calling the body shop, the guy simply recommended putting clear-coat on it anyway, and that would give the surface a shiny coating as well...after doing the best job we can, would it hurt, in any way, to spray on a layer of clearcoat, sand it down a bit and polish it as well?

hope these questions make more sense to y'all then they do to me right now...

response would be VERY helpful (it's 2.30pm here already, but of course who would be up and lurking the forums so early in the morning in the USA??)

-peter

[Braindrop]

> after sanding, all the paint in that area is gone

Did the paint go away because there was a slightly raised ridge of paint, or did it wipe away like it never adhered?
If it was raised, you need to sand the panel flat and reprime. If it wiped away, you need to clean the surface better (a lint-free rag and denatured alchohol will work).

> how does one spray evenly, so that lines are not visible on the case...

Start spraying off the piece, then move the paint can across and off. Do this making horizontal stripes, vertical stripes, and diaganol stripes. Never stop moving the can when the paint is over the panel. Let dry, repeat this technique 2-3 more times, depending on how much of a finish you want to build up.

> will simply more sanding with this "polishing towel" fill in the gap between 600 and 2000?`

No. Each grit leaves a network of tiny scratches. If you jump too far in grit, all you'll end up with is nicely polished scratches. The maximum jump I'd make would be 600 to 1000. 800 is better. There are many places on the net to get sandpaper in whatever grit you need, and it's pretty cheap.

> short this time...is it better to wet-sand with alot of liquid on the surface or little?

A lot, within reason. At the higher grits you'll develop a 'slurry' that helps polish. You never want it to dry out, but you don't want to have someone with a hose spraying it down while you sand either.

> wondering if it would be ok to rub the surfaces down with this instead of what was recommended on the sticky in order to remove all grease, whatever from the surface...

As long as it dries without any residue, it will probably work. Push a test panel against your forehead or nose or something and see how well it cleans off

> i mean is it ok to sand down the plastic (wouldnt scratches be more pronounced?) and do it like that?

Only if you have a set of really fine sanding pads. Micromesh makes a set that goes to 12000 grit that I use to polish clear plastic pieces on scale models.


> after doing the best job we can, would it hurt, in any way, to spray on a layer of clearcoat, sand it down a bit and polish it as well?

For me, it would depend on how polished I already had the paint. Personal call, but if you're happy with the look without a clear coat, why risk the additional coat? At minimum, paint a test panel.


Braindrop