Ok guys, I really need help here (Sorry for the newbie questioning...)

First off, if I'm breaking any rules, feel free to simply delete this post, I own my own message boards and I know that I get ****ed off when people don't read the rules, but I'm totally stuck, nobody will be kind enough to explain (or isn't knowledgable enough to explain) everything I'm about to ask...

Ok, so I fell into a really nice job where it pays me about $360/week straight out the door, and since I'm a student with no expenses (no car, yet...), I am going to throw away my first month or two's paycheck's and delve into building one of those computers that's going to make people drool. I researched everything as much as I could (without my eyes beginning to bleed, etc.) and I came to a few decisions on my purchase, and here is the list:

• ABIT KR7A (no Raid)
• XP 2200 (1800+) with Alpha PAL8045 heatsink and a fan (still haven't chosen which, perhaps you folks will have a suggestion)
• 584mb PC3200 DDR (<-Problem one I'll talk about in a minute)
• Xtasy GeForce4 Ti4600 (or 4400, depending on the prices when I buy)
• 80Gb Maxtor 7200rpm HD
• Sound Blaster Audigy Gamer 5.1
• Antec ATX12Volt 430watt Power Supply
• Tornado 3000 with window from 3DCool.Com

That's the summation of my machine... Now, the problem I'm having is that darn PC3200 ram, it's quite the damned expensive item, and from what I'm being told is that if I get that ram, and all that nifty stuff, and put it in my puter, it's going to act as fast as PC2100... which sorta ****es me off, I want the incredible power, but I'm no overclocking genius. So I want you guys to explain to me in plain detail what you would do in this situation (No, I'm not changing anything other then ram situations, so don't go off the wall whining about my other selections, unless you provide something that is widely accepted as a better product).

Would you buy the 3200, and overclock (if that's even necessary?)(and if you would, how? Any links for the beginners, or tips using that exact setup, I know you folks are pro's and someone's gotta already have what I'm building, at least partially)?

Would you step down, grab some PC2700 (if that'll work at it's full speed without overclocking?), and take the hit in power, but not have to overclock?

Or would you (if the 2700 requires overclocking to go at 100% speed), drop back to the 2100, and a higher amount of ram?

Keep in mind I'm a gamer, the last option isn't really needed, as I'll be playing mainly just the new aged games, etc. which focus more on the speed of the ram than the quantity (quantity = developers, yes?), and for my dollar, I want the most bang in my game.

Thanks in advance - Clay (aka - Jungle)

In addition: I will be checking this post as frequently as I can (meaning, just about every 5 minutes tonight, and about every chance I can when I'm at work tommorow, and every 5 minutes when I get home).

I am extremely ready to accept any advice as this is my first try, but if you're going to, I would also enjoy a background for the advice...

The KR7A can only run the memory at the fsb speed of the cpu (x2 ddr) so if you don't overclock the fsb your memory will only run at 133x2 or 266mhz also known as 2100ddr.
It is possible to run the fsb at a higher speed without overclocking the cpu much at all but you need to unlock the cpu to do it.

If you are not really into overclocking the video card is probably going to be more important for gaming, the cpu you have selected should be plenty able to run any game you want with ease at stock speed.

Thermalright AX-7 with PanaFlo H1A 80mm is all that I'd change. The T-Breds only run 67.9W maximum, so this combo should keep it cool, ~@35-38 full load.

Thanks Placid...

I see why they gave you senior-dom (gives me an excuse to stay on the site if I read ) Anyway, any advice on how to get this nifty PC3200 working at 100% if I wanted it to?

Cripes!

Forgot my second question (now that Doom brings up the heatsink) - What are the shim's used for? I'll be buying an OEM XP 2200, so will I need a shim and all that glue stuff, and is there a link to applying that stuff anywhere?

Push the FSB to 200, of course,

You need to unlock the cpu first. Then push the fsb to 200mhz and lower the cpu multiplier to keep the cpu within it's operating speed range. The KR7A only has a 1/4 pci and 1/2 agp divider so at 200mhz you will be pushing the componets on these busses pretty hard and they might not like it even at 180mhz.

But if you want to try the first thing to do is unlock the cpu.

It would be best to ask the experts on this subject in the amd cpu section for the current "best method".

I am not into "extreme" overclocking. I just take what I can get without having to worry about stressing my componets to point of premature failure.

That's why I am called Placid

And welcome to the forum!

Hello jungle creature-

1. Don´t buy the KR7A. I can´t see a reason to buy a mobo with KT266A if you can buy a mobo with KT333. A good mobo though.
2. Don´t get that memory if you are getting the abit board. The standard memory operating frequenzy on that board is 266 Mhz = 133 Mhz FSB. DDR PC3200 is rated for 200 Mhz FSB, and trust me you will NEVER achive that. If you are buying the abit board, buy PC2400 or PC2700 memory. That will give you good enough room for O/C.
2a: 584 mb?!? Get 512 Mb, IN ONE STICK for best performance.
3. Do not buy the XP2200. You can get a XP2000 oem for half the price, you won´t know the difference anyway.
4. Get the GF4 Ti4200 instead of the Ti4400 or 4600. It propably overclock to performe the same.
5. Copper shims are mainly used for saving the CPU from very heavy cpu coolers. The 8045 is just such a one; get a shim.

regards,
Henry

Hmm. You'd probably have good luck hitting 200+ FSBs with the Epox 8k3a. As for the HSF, SLK-800 is the best now. Ram, get it in one stick, lower the CPU Multiplier and crank up the FSB. I believe Thoroughbreds only require one bridge being modded for an unlock, check the AMD CPUs Forum.

Henry Rollins II:

1) KT333 at last research I did was more expensive and less reliable then the KR7A (the ABIT next-up version of the KR7A features four dimms, but only two are reliable). Get me a board without onboard sound and the realistic numbers behind it's performance benefits compared to the 266a, and I *might* consider changing boards...

2) Thanks for the information on the ram situation (I think I actually understand all this FSB shiza now, thanks to you, placid, and Penguin)
2a) My bad, 512, and yes, one stick, not two

3) But I don't want to settle for less

4) The 4600 had about 15 fps better on anandtech's test, and I'm not really one for overclocking (yet), so I want the highest "stock" power.

5) Thank you, for some reason everyone sells them, but nobody tells me what they are for ... Any suggestions?

It helps to support the load of the heatsink; with a Thermalright AX-7 or something similar, it would be advisable.

Actually I was wondering if there were any particular shim's that you would suggest...

The reason why you should get the kt333 over the kt266a is the multiplier. Kt266a only has a 1/4 multiplier, while the kt333 has a 1/5 multiplier. This way, your PCI and AGP slots will take less stress from overclocking the front side bus. AGP and PCI slots don't like high fsb speeds.

1/4 means at 133 fsb, the pci is at 33 mhz and the agp is at 66 (I think, correct me if I'm wrong). 1/5 on the other hand means at 166 fsb, the pci is at 33 mhz and the agp is at 66. As you can see this will lead to better system stability once you start cranking the fsb past 166.

Look around the forums and see what motherboards everyone else is using, and check out their max stable front side bus speeds. They will most likely be kt333 motherboards. That is why.

The ALPHA 8045 is outdated. Try the AX-7 or SLK800. Proof.

junglemonkey said:

Henry Rollins II:

1) KT333 at last research I did was more expensive and less reliable then the KR7A (the ABIT next-up version of the KR7A features four dimms, but only two are reliable). Get me a board without onboard sound and the realistic numbers behind it's performance benefits compared to the 266a, and I *might* consider changing boards...

2) Thanks for the information on the ram situation (I think I actually understand all this FSB shiza now, thanks to you, placid, and Penguin)
2a) My bad, 512, and yes, one stick, not two

3) But I don't want to settle for less

4) The 4600 had about 15 fps better on anandtech's test, and I'm not really one for overclocking (yet), so I want the highest "stock" power.

5) Thank you, for some reason everyone sells them, but nobody tells me what they are for ... Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

1. I thought you were seeking speed? If you want stability, go dual AMD or the NForce chipset which is supposedly very stable. No I can´t specify a model, but a mobo that holds a certain chipset has about the same performance no matter the manufacturer. You don´t have to use the onboard sound, it can be disabled in BIOS.

3. Roar.

5. To make sure a heavy cpu cooler doesn´t crush the cpu core!! I told ya! Type: There are problably quite a few makes and models, some retailer stores make their own. They come in all colors. Get one made out of copper.

regards,
Henry