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beezee
08-13-02, 02:55 PM
Hi, I'm kinda new to watercooling and I wanted your opinions. I just bought all the parts for my watercooling setup and was wondering where to put my bleed/fill line. Does it really matter how long or where it is? I know it needs to be the highest point, above the rest of the setup (gravity)... but I was wondering if it matter how long and where you put it in the setup.
DangerDen suggests this:
RAD--->Bleed line--->PUMP

However, I wanted to do it this way:
WB--->Bleed line--->RAD--->PUMP

Is that okay? Oh and if I made the bleed line 3-4 inches, would that be okay too? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks...

NoKtEm
08-13-02, 03:04 PM
it should be okay, I personally like to put mine right after the radiator because air gets trapped in there very easily (especially if it's a heater core). Just make sure the T line is put where hte water travels straight and parrallel against the ground so the air goes up.

mota
08-13-02, 03:59 PM
It doesn't need to be at the highest point in the loop. It works best if you place the tee right before the suction side of the pump. The longer the line for the bleed tube the better because it gives you more reserve coolant.

safemode
08-13-02, 04:08 PM
no need for a bleed line.. fill it up all the way correctly the first time and dont worry about it ever again.

JFettig
08-13-02, 04:16 PM
Originally posted by safemode
no need for a bleed line.. fill it up all the way correctly the first time and dont worry about it ever again.

after a while with temp changes and whatnots gasses will extract out of the water

it doesnt matter were the bleed line goes.. what i found makes the BEST bleedline is a copper pipe T with 1/2 hose you slip it over it and with 3/8 you solder 1.5inch ends on each opening to adapt it, it has actual opening(1/2 or 3/8) therefore no restriction...

beezee
08-13-02, 04:17 PM
I'd rather be safe than sorry witht he bleed line. I've been running the setup for a week now and have noticed that water has mysteriously vanished, just a little... I'm planning on re-doing the tygon because some of the lines are too long.... and if needed, I was going to relocate the bleed line. Thanks! :)

nikhsub1
08-13-02, 04:20 PM
Originally posted by safemode
no need for a bleed line.. fill it up all the way correctly the first time and dont worry about it ever again.
While that may be helpful for some that know you are talking about filling in a tub/bucket, others probably don't. Instead of saying do it right the first time and that's it, you could explain what you are talking about.

What safemode meant to say is you could fill the entire system under water in a bucket or a tub, seal it and then install. Basically you fill bleed etc. all under water then seal the system up with all the air out and install it in your case. I personally don't like this system, you have to remove the H20 components out of the case every time you want to change water, add a different block etc. A bleed tube is much easier and lets you add dye or whatever whenever you want.

chuckerants
08-13-02, 04:30 PM
This is an excellent thread since I'm waiting to go pick up the rest of my W/C rig from D-Tek.

I plan on using an in-line system with a bleeder line much like Hoot and nikhsub1. When I start to fill it, do I just fill through the bleed line little at a time?

Also, how do you drain the system?

beezee
08-13-02, 04:30 PM
Originally posted by maskedgeek

it doesnt matter were the bleed line goes.. what i found makes the BEST bleedline is a copper pipe T with 1/2 hose you slip it over it and with 3/8 you solder 1.5inch ends on each opening to adapt it, it has actual opening(1/2 or 3/8) therefore no restriction...

Thanks for answering my question maskedgeek. nikhsub1, I filled the setup with h20/waterwetter a week ago via bucket. I guess since it doesn't matter where the bleed line goes, I'm going to put it in this order:
WB--->BleedLine--->RAD--->PUMP
With the bleedline extending up about 3-4 inches... Thanks for the info guys!

JFettig
08-13-02, 04:35 PM
Originally posted by nikhsub1

While that may be helpful for some that know you are talking about filling in a tub/bucket, others probably don't. Instead of saying do it right the first time and that's it, you could explain what you are talking about.

What safemode meant to say is you could fill the entire system under water in a bucket or a tub, seal it and then install. Basically you fill bleed etc. all under water then seal the system up with all the air out and install it in your case. I personally don't like this system, you have to remove the H20 components out of the case every time you want to change water, add a different block etc. A bleed tube is much easier and lets you add dye or whatever whenever you want.

yeah i do it that way and i use a bleed line... the water will extract gasses then make bubles so thats why you need a bleed line for a little while... or just run it like that for about a week or 3 till all the gasses are gone...

SkiFletch
08-13-02, 04:37 PM
chucker, yeah, if you have a single bleed line, just pour water in slowly. a funnel works wonders ;)

beezee
08-13-02, 04:38 PM
Originally posted by chuckerants
This is an excellent thread since I'm waiting to go pick up the rest of my W/C rig from D-Tek.

I plan on using an in-line system with a bleeder line much like Hoot and nikhsub1. When I start to fill it, do I just fill through the bleed line little at a time?

Also, how do you drain the system?

chuckerants, I'm not sure if this is the correct way to do it, but it worked for me. I measured the tygon to the lengths I wanted inside the case. Then I cut the tygon and connected everything together (clamps help a lot). Then I went ahead and filled up a bucket with the h20/water wetter solution. I left the intake side of the pump open so that it could suck in the water/wetter and it could also come back out through the other end. Then under the water I connected the last section of the setup and let it run for about a week to test for leaks... success for me on the first try!
To drain the system I would do the same thing. De-tatch the last section of the setup before the intake. THen turn your pump back on and let the water solution run out into a bucket...
Now according to Maskedgeek, it doesn't matter where you put your bleed line... (see above)

mota
08-13-02, 04:39 PM
It matters where it goes.. unless you want it to take a long time to bleed out.

See my explanation in this thread to a user whos air trap was not working..
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90273

nikhsub1
08-13-02, 04:45 PM
Originally posted by beezee


Thanks for answering my question maskedgeek. nikhsub1, I filled the setup with h20/waterwetter a week ago via bucket. I guess since it doesn't matter where the bleed line goes, I'm going to put it in this order:
WB--->BleedLine--->RAD--->PUMP
With the bleedline extending up about 3-4 inches... Thanks for the info guys!
So you are gonna run pump>block>rad? I would go (hell, I do!) pump>rad>block>bleed tube>pump here is a pic

http://www.netbetty.com/H20/insidebare.jpg

chuckerants
08-13-02, 04:47 PM
With a name like Mota, :) I hope you don;t mind if I ask for confirmation of placing the bleed line at the LOWEST point instead of the HIGHEST point.

beezee
08-13-02, 04:59 PM
Thanks for the pic nikhsub1! I'm going to try and set it up like yours. I have an Ehiem 1050's series pump so it's a little bigger. My case is restricting the potential layouts of my setup... I'll try...

mota
08-13-02, 04:59 PM
Originally posted by chuckerants
With a name like Mota, :) I hope you don;t mind if I ask for confirmation of placing the bleed line at the LOWEST point instead of the HIGHEST point.

Hahaha, check my site. I have had every type of res. configuration.

This is my latest inline sealed res. This res. gives me the ability to change blocks in minutes without rebleeding the system.

http://mota.mota.com/bc/res1.jpg

SkiFletch
08-13-02, 05:01 PM
the whole highest point in the system thing is a conundrum. if you are referring to the fill line, it HAS to be at the highest point in the system, otherwise you'll have water everywhere. but, that just means that the END of the fill line needs to be the highest point in the system. bleeding and filling are two different purposes, but can be accomplished both with a T in the line, hence they are done together.

mota is right, there is less turbulence at the inlet of the pump, allowing for easier trapping of air. in a system where the pump is the lowest point, then the BLEED line should be T'ed in just before that low inlet and should have a tube extension to a valve for bleeding. if you wish to use this line for filling as well, the opening of the line must be higher than everything because water seeks the lowest possible level and will pour out if it is at a lower level. of course, the T itself can be anywhere, its just that the end of the tube attached to the T needs to be highest

SkiFletch
08-13-02, 05:03 PM
btw, if you dont want to use a resevior and need a valve for bleeding/filling/sealing the T, I find toilet valves work wonders and just mounted one into the top of my case with a barbed connector on the other side to connect to the T. works wonders imo

chuckerants
08-13-02, 05:03 PM
check my site.
URL?

mota
08-13-02, 05:06 PM
Originally posted by chuckerants

URL?

Its in my profile.

Oreo_The_Cookie
08-13-02, 05:06 PM
http://mota.mota.com/

beezee
08-13-02, 05:13 PM
Originally posted by SkiFletch
btw, if you dont want to use a resevior and need a valve for bleeding/filling/sealing the T, I find toilet valves work wonders and just mounted one into the top of my case with a barbed connector on the other side to connect to the T. works wonders imo

Thanks for clearing things up SkiFletch. A lot of people forget that filling and bleeding are two different things. I had my setup filled, but just wanted to change the position of my bleed line so that it would not get in the way of things.
Mota, that's a killer res you got there... I too, would like the URL for your site.. :) good stuff...