Nothing else needed for this watercooling setup?

[Garfield]

Let's see...I'm looking at

1/2" tygon tubing
Eheim 1048
Spir@l waterblock
'89 camaro heatercore with barbs already on
2 x 120mm fans (not sure which ones yet, or even if this is enough)

This seems to be all that I'll need to purchase. Anything that I'm missing? I'm not going to use a res in the setup, because I personally don't think it's necessary. Although, I don't konw how to get the air out when I build this watercooling setup. How would I?

And, I was thinking to use 2 x 120mms on the heatercore and then 2 x 80mms as exaust with a 12v - 7v mod. Does that sound like enough air flow? And, will that be pretty quiet? After all, that's one of the main reasons I'm doing this. :D Silence!

[Gandalf]

Sounds like your ready. :)

Yes those fans will provide ample air flow for your system.

Good Luck! :D

[JFettig]

you forgot the T for the bleed line, thats how you get the air out....

[Garfield]

>> you forgot the T for the bleed line, thats how you get the air out.... <<

I'm afraid I'm not familiar with this. Could you explain what exactly it's for and where to get it? Thanks, maskedgeek! :D

[Gandalf]

Originally posted by Garfield
I'm afraid I'm not familiar with this. Could you explain what exactly it's for and where to get it? Thanks, maskedgeek! :D

I'll help ya out.

Pics in here about what bleed line looks like and what it is for (http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112109&highlight=bleed+line)

Second pic down, you can see the bleed line made with the T- Splitter (http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110755&highlight=bleed+line)


THose 2 threads basically explain everything about bleed lines and what they are used for. ;)

[Garfield]

Just a couple of questions (:D)...

http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/19/cat19.htm?917

This link is for the '89 camaro heatercore that I"m going to buy with barbs already on it when I get it. This is what niksub1 pointed me to. But, how do you know it's the '89 camaro heatercore? I don't see that it says it anywhere. :confused:

And, like I said above, it already has barbs on it. But, would I need other things for the tubing to stay on the hc? Like clamps or something? Or are barbs enough?

And, nobody ever answered the question about the T bleed line...where can you get a top so that, well, the water doesn't come out? You know, a cap for the top of the T? I think that's how I'm going to get the air out of the system.

[bongo]

The heatercores sold at Dtek aren't Camaro'89 corees.....but chevette'76-86.

The Camaro core is about an inch and 1/2 taller than the chevettes. This is really important for people who use the Antec Cases.

Just clearing up some misconceptions. :D

[masitti]

You shouldn't need a cap for the T-Line. At least I don't use one, and haven't had any problems.

The heatercores at Dteks are like 86-87 Chevette cores.

[Iron Hawk]

Hose clamps, many people prefer the metal wyrmgear type. If you use these be sure to get the appropriate size, if you use one that is too big it will squeez the tubing into an oval shape and not seal to your barb, thus creating leaks. I use zip ties, they are cheap and easy to use, I put 3 on each barb and yank them really tight. never had a leak, never going to get one.

[Garfield]

Are these chevette cores just as good or better than the camaro ones? Is it safe to get the chevette core at dtek?

>> You shouldn't need a cap for the T-Line. At least I don't use one, and haven't had any problems. <<

But, isn't the "T" open at the top?? I guess I don't really understand the design. It's kinda like an extension, but I thought that it was open at the top. It's not!?

>> Hose clamps, many people prefer the metal wyrmgear type. If you use these be sure to get the appropriate size, if you use one that is too big it will squeez the tubing into an oval shape and not seal to your barb, thus creating leaks. I use zip ties, they are cheap and easy to use, I put 3 on each barb and yank them really tight. never had a leak, never going to get one. <<

So, I think I understand how this goes. You got the heatercore. Then there are barbs on it. The tube fits over the barb, right? But, the tygon tubing might not "stay on" the tube, so you clamp the tube onto the barb? Is that how that works?

Thanks, fellas! :D

[wildbilly2k]

Originally posted by b8ng8
The heatercores sold at Dtek aren't Camaro'89 corees.....but chevette'76-86.

The Camaro core is about an inch and 1/2 taller than the chevettes. This is really important for people who use the Antec Cases.

Just clearing up some misconceptions. :D

if i was to buy a chevette 86' heater core could i use one of the dtek fan shrouds for it?

[Garfield]

Originally posted by wildbilly2k


if i was to buy a chevette 86' heater core could i use one of the dtek fan shrouds for it?

I think so because the description says that it's used for cooler core ones and that heatercore at dtek I think is a cooler core. That shroud sounds like a really good idea. Good for the cooling of the hc. I think I'm going to do that, too. Push -> pull config, I think.

One thing I don't understand about mounting the shroud onto the heatercore is where are the holes for the screws of the shroud on the heatercore? Where would the shroud fit onto it? :confused:

[wildbilly2k]

here is a link for a heater core at autozone 16.99 i think it is a pretty good deal from the one at dtek for like 30chevette heater core (http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=loadPage)

[masitti]

Originally posted by Garfield

>> You shouldn't need a cap for the T-Line. At least I don't use one, and haven't had any problems. <<

But, isn't the "T" open at the top?? I guess I don't really understand the design. It's kinda like an extension, but I thought that it was open at the top. It's not!?

Thanks, fellas! :D

Yes, the T is open at the top; here is a shot of my system when I first put Purple Ice in it. No need to cover it.

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=968516#post968516

If water would hit the cap, then it would blow the cap like a champaign bottle right? ;)

[masitti]

Originally posted by Garfield


I think so because the description says that it's used for cooler core ones and that heatercore at dtek I think is a cooler core. That shroud sounds like a really good idea. Good for the cooling of the hc. I think I'm going to do that, too. Push -> pull config, I think.

One thing I don't understand about mounting the shroud onto the heatercore is where are the holes for the screws of the shroud on the heatercore? Where would the shroud fit onto it? :confused:

You stick the bolt THROUGH the heatercore. It goes: through fan, through shroud, through core. Hope that clarify's.

Yes, it would be safe to go with a h/c from Dtek; that is what I have.

[frodoski]

Originally posted by msmasitti
You shouldn't need a cap for the T-Line. At least I don't use one, and haven't had any problems.

The heatercores at Dteks are like 86-87 Chevette cores.

I you don't treat your water for creepy crawlies (molds that like to live in water, a.k.a.: algae (yuk! gotta go wash my hands), you won't even need food coloring for special effects. Not to mention dust contamination to the distilled (?) water that would normally be non-conductive.

Here is a picture of an inline T:

[Garfield]

Originally posted by msmasitti


Yes, the T is open at the top; here is a shot of my system when I first put Purple Ice in it. No need to cover it.

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=968516#post968516

If water would hit the cap, then it would blow the cap like a champaign bottle right? ;)

But, if it's open at the top, won't water come out of it!?? What do you mean by "open", anyways? After all, with the water current it would go to that, right? You're saying that there's nothing stopping anything at the open spout of the T?

[NoKtEm]

it would come out if you have a reservoir.. but if your in a inline system then the water is limited so gravity just keeps it down, u can even add water in it after the air goes into the bleed line

EDIT:

oh yea, and if you have a reservoir just use a cap (i use a cap anyways in a in-line system) and it seals the tube up and doesn't let the water squirt out

[Garfield]

Where did you get this cap to seal the top of the T?

So, gravity can keep down the water pressure on the T top?

[Gandalf]

Originally posted by Garfield


But, if it's open at the top, won't water come out of it!?? What do you mean by "open", anyways? After all, with the water current it would go to that, right? You're saying that there's nothing stopping anything at the open spout of the T?

Ah, but that is where you are wrong. There is something stopping it, gravity. Unless your house is immune to gravity, you should be fine! ;) :D

[Garfield]

GRAVITY KEEPS THE WATER DOWN!!! I don't know, I've always thought a watercooling system with good pumping was some pressure. I don't konw, but I would really feel better if I had a cap at the top, so where could I get it? Also, where would I get this T top?

I don't know, maybe I don't need the cap. I can't explain it though, I just can't picture that gravity alone would keep the water down out of this fast flowing watercooling setup and tubes. I just can't imagine it! :D You know what I mean?

Also, I would have to make sure that the open top was facing up, so gravity would take effect. :)

[masitti]

Cool down... ;)

When you first start the pump, you'll notice the water will shoot up the tube a little bit; however the water doesn't continue to push that pressure up.

I think you can get a cap at Home Depot. Just save your receipt, so you can return it. ;) :)

[Garfield]

>> Cool down... <<

Pun intended? :D :)

Okay, I think I will. And, where would I get this T line anyways? It would need to be 1/2" specified, right? Will I need to put a clamp on that too to keep the tube on that, or just for the barbs?

So, I guess in all I will just need 2 hose clamps? For the input and output of the heatercore, right? Or would I need clamps for the tubing going into the pump (eheim 1048)? Where would I get these clamps?

Thanks again! :D

[masitti]

Originally posted by Garfield
>> Cool down... <<

Pun intended? :D :)

Okay, I think I will. And, where would I get this T line anyways? It would need to be 1/2" specified, right? Will I need to put a clamp on that too to keep the tube on that, or just for the barbs?

So, I guess in all I will just need 2 hose clamps? For the input and output of the heatercore, right? Or would I need clamps for the tubing going into the pump (eheim 1048)? Where would I get these clamps?

Thanks again! :D

:D

You can get a T-line from www.cooltechnica.com , www.dtekcustoms.com , and I am sure you can get one at Home Depot. I would use hose clamps always, to protect against leaks; you just hose clamp on the barb where the tubing is.

You should have hose clamps for each barb in the system. ;) I recommend the metal screw type over the cheesy plastic kind.

Clamps can be found at Home Depot or any hardware store.

[Garfield]

I think I will only have barbs on the heatercore. Nothing else. Does that sound right? After all, barbs aren't on the pump, are they? And, the waterblock, how do the tubes stay on the waterblock?

Thanks for all this help! :D

[masitti]

lol, everything will have barbs... that is where the tubing goes so it can flow through.

So, you'll need about 9 hose clamps: 2 for w/b, 2 for h/c, 2 for pump, and 3 for the t-line.

[Gandalf]

Originally posted by Garfield
I think I will only have barbs on the heatercore. Nothing else. Does that sound right? After all, barbs aren't on the pump, are they? And, the waterblock, how do the tubes stay on the waterblock?

Thanks for all this help! :D

Yes it sounds right.

They stay on like a finger stays in a Chinese finger trap. It uses the force of the pull against itself.

[Garfield]

Originally posted by msmasitti
lol, everything will have barbs... that is where the tubing goes so it can flow through.

So, you'll need about 9 hose clamps: 2 for w/b, 2 for h/c, 2 for pump, and 3 for the t-line.

Why would I need 3 for the t-line? There's only going to be a tube attached to it and then another as if it's one but the top of the t-line is open with no tube so why would a hose clamp be needed there?

[Lord_of_Decay]

The "T" fitting will have hose attached to all sides. The middle fitting with the attached hose will be the air trap and also a mini res.

[Garfield]

Originally posted by Lord_of_Decay
The "T" fitting will have hose attached to all sides. The middle fitting with the attached hose will be the air trap and also a mini res.

Wait a minute, I'm not sure about what you mean. Okay, the tube is going to go through one input of the t-line, and then the water will go through the 2nd output of the t-line. And that leaves the 3rd out of the T-line open. So, you're saying that I put more tubing on that and then that tubing goes to a res? I wasn't thinking of putting a res in this watercooling setup.

I thought they said that it would be open at the top and gravity would keep the water down? :confused:

[Garfield]

So I guess I don't need a res?

[Skulemate]

No, you don't need a res, though you do still need a short length of tubing off of the side of your T so that there is a water column inside... it's the pressure from this column that keeps the water from flowing out.

[masitti]

Yea, no need for a res; that is what the t-line is for. :)

[Garfield]

Okay, I think I've got a good enough list in my head of what I need to get and where. I can't thank you guys enough. But, thanks! :D