View Full Version : Pump question...help....
Metaxas
03-19-01, 10:40 PM
If I go buy a pump out of the store, like in the pet section, will it have 3/8th inch fittings on it? Is that a standard thing? The reason i'm asking, is because caseetc has not sent me jack, will not return my calls, will not return my e-mails, ..i'll take care of him tommorrow, i'm calling my credit card company and dispute the charges. He can take my money, just fine, and then bail out or something...this makes me madder then hell.
LimeyGreg
03-19-01, 11:04 PM
Depends on the size of the pump and the manufacturer. Most common is 3/8" and 1/2", either same in & out or combination.
Look at pumps here :- http://www.petwarehouse.com/webstore/webstore.nsf/ProductSearch?SearchView
I bought an Eheim from them, very good service, it took three days by their cheapest method.
LimeyGreg is right. There isn't one standard for pumps. I had to use a reducer to get mine down to 3/8ths. I think, though, that some of the OC shops might preselect pumps with 3/8th fittings.
Newbie_Doo
03-19-01, 11:16 PM
I am using a Little Giant submerged fountain pump rated at 80GPH with a 7' head. It has 3/8" ID fittings on it. Picked it up for about $35.00 at the 'depot. It's in the big grey box below.
1/2" inch is most common. I can't wait to read about our hero's adventures in the plumbing department! I know you did not want to go there, but a good part of the experience is the journey. It's fun to roll your own.:)
Newbie_Doo
03-19-01, 11:40 PM
I LOVE the plumbing department at the Depot. In fact, I need to go there tomorrow. I need to get a 90 degree elbow for my waterblock. The Socket370 board doesn't like the straight barbs, although the Slot1 board with the slotket works just fine. Here is the block I designed and had milled. The cap gets soldered on and I use screw-in fittings for the hose barbs
Hey Newbie that is cool!!! I want one! :D
AKDUDE
Metaxas
03-19-01, 11:51 PM
I heard that Ak...I wouldn't mind one of those myself...that thing looks dope.. :)
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 12:36 AM
You can't afford it. I had 5 prototypes made. I'm into them for about $500 at cost. That's $100 each. Unless Joe says that this thing is DA BOMB, it's not going to see production in it's current form. Of course...if you do want one, I have 3 that I'm not using...I accept cash, money orders, and gold.
Metaxas
03-20-01, 12:45 AM
Awwww... oh well, they still look dope...do they perform real well?
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 12:50 AM
I'll let you decide...see the attachment:
Metaxas
03-20-01, 01:02 AM
Not bad amigo...not bad at all, listen, I would have to wait until next month, e-mail me what you want for one, and I would like to ask you some other questions about it...but did I read that wrong, or your running 2.55 VCore...wooo smokin... ;D
bnewmans@midsouth.rr.com
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 01:05 AM
You read that wrong. Vcore is 1.79V.
Metaxas
03-20-01, 01:23 AM
Heeeeee...ok... ;D I hope either my pump comes tommorrw (which I am beginning to doubt) or go find one from the store...Wal-Mart may have them, think i'll look into that... :)
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 01:44 AM
I would try Lowes or Home Depot in the garden center, or go to a place that sells aquarium circulation pumps. I would recommend that you get a pump for a fountain or waterfall. They are in the "water gardening" area of the Depot. get a pump that has reasonable flow at 4' head. If you need an inline pump, I wouldn't know where to send you. I think that there are a couple of good links on the main page about good pumps. I'm using an 80GPH Little Giant fountan pump, which some will tell you is a little low for flow rate. I make up for it by having a huge reservoir. I made it out of an underground junction box and some barb fittings. I used the 6x6x4 box because it holds about 3/4 gallon of coolant. It's still a tight fit in my tower case. I am working on a web page that will show the "how-to" for how I built my system, but it probably won't be up for another week. Anyway, as you see, I "rolled my own" but it cost me a little more than going off-the-shelf.
Metaxas
03-20-01, 01:54 AM
Where I live, we have a Lowes. What kinda flow rate would you suggest, maybe 100GPH? And also, what about those round clamp things that can go around the house, and you can tighten it up with a screw, and it keeps the hose on there for sure...where do I obtain some of those. Dumb questions I know, however, I don't work much with that kinda stuff. :) You say, a pond pump, or waterfall pump...ok, will the box say how far it can lift also? I plan on running my reservoir outside of my case (not interested in portability) so its going to be a gallon container of somekind. Thanks for the help bro...heehee... ;D I'll get this box up if it kills me...and you know what's bad...if these problems had not come up with caseetc...my new system most likely would have been running 3 days ago. DOH. But that's okay....lowes it is. :)
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 02:29 AM
OK, here's the parts list for a DIY reservoir.
Garden Dept: Fountain pump-80GPH minimum. $35.00
Electrical Dept: Underground junction box. They carry 4x4x4, 6x6x4, 6x6x6, 6x12x4. Pick one. I use a 6x6x4". They have a gasket around the rim and screws on each corner. Also pick up a package of 1/4" grommets.
Plumbing dept: 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing 6'-8' or so (it's cheap). 3/8" to 1/4" MIP brass hose barbs (look for a display of brass fittings). You'll need one each for the inlet and outlet and will have to drill the box and screw them through the plastic and seal them with silicone sealant (in the paint dept). See the How-To article on the watercooling section of the main page. Hose clamps (i think they are 5/8" max, but fit them to the hose to be sure) you'll need one for each connection. I have 9 in my system...pick up a dozen, they're cheap.
Before you drill the junction box for the fittings and pump, try several different positions and routing on the pump and hoses. some people like to have the hoses come into the top of the box, mine are coming out the side...diff'rent strokes. Also, figure out if you want to cut the cord on the pump or not. I didn't, and instead cut a notch in the top of the rim on the reservoir, cut a grommet to fit the cord, and silicone sealed it to the box so it's watertight, but I can take it out if it fails and get a warranty exchange if necessary.
I learned everything I know from the watercooling articles on the front page. I read EVERY article there, so I had a pretty good idea what i wanted to do. Joe, Ed, Surlyjoe, and the rest have already blazed the trail,,,i just followed the path.
E-mail me if you have trouble. The address is on my profile.
dimmreaper
03-20-01, 02:31 AM
Hey Newbie-
Is that machined from 1" think stock?
Metaxas (Mar 20, 2001 01:54 a.m.):
Where I live, we have a Lowes. What kinda flow rate would you suggest, maybe 100GPH? And also, what about those round clamp things that can go around the house, and you can tighten it up with a screw, and it keeps the hose on there for sure...where do I obtain some of those. Dumb questions I know, however, I don't work much with that kinda stuff. :) You say, a pond pump, or waterfall pump...ok, will the box say how far it can lift also? I plan on running my reservoir outside of my case (not interested in portability) so its going to be a gallon container of somekind. Thanks for the help bro...heehee... ;D I'll get this box up if it kills me...and you know what's bad...if these problems had not come up with caseetc...my new system most likely would have been running 3 days ago. DOH. But that's okay....lowes it is. :)
## Hey if you've got a Petworld, or Pet warehouse that is where I picked mine up it's a MaxiJet 115 GPH at 5' Lift, got it for 25$ So check it out you can get some good deals I have also seen the heavy duty MagDrive pumps at the pet store too. Look for what they call a powerhead, they will tell you whether they are submersible or Inline, so check em out and you should be able to find a bargain. Stop in there and see what you can find. You might be suprised! =) ##
J - Hope that helps =)
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 02:38 AM
Jeff Evans (Mar 20, 2001 02:31 a.m.):
Hey Newbie-
Is that machined from 1" think stock?
Yes. 2"x2"x1" thick. The base, sidewalls, and cap are 1/8" thick except where the fittings are (1/4" instead). The inside cavity measures 1.75"x1.75"x.75" deep. The pins are full height and are milled in reverse (material removed around the pins) from the base stock. The cap fits in a groove around the top edge and is a sweat fit. The pins have full contact with the cap, and are part of the base, so heat transfer is pretty good. With my radiator inlet uncovered, I run about 2C over ambient according to MBM. With the front fascia in place, it's about 5C difference, I have my c2-600 backed down to 900 MHZ for 24 hour stability so i can fold 24/7/365 without worry.
Metaxas
03-20-01, 02:41 AM
I may just order one online though. It really depends what Lowes has, and IF my stuff comes tommorrow. I can't wait any longer, I gotta get this box up. Newbie...thanks man, that sounds real easy, if dude decides to not send me anything, then that is exactly what I am going to do, however, can other "containers" be used also?
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 02:45 AM
You could use a salad bowl if you had to, just so long as you kept the water away from the electronics.
dimmreaper
03-20-01, 02:48 AM
Newbie_Doo (Mar 20, 2001 02:38 a.m.):
Jeff Evans (Mar 20, 2001 02:31 a.m.):
Hey Newbie-
Is that machined from 1" think stock?
Yes. 2"x2"x1" thick. The base, sidewalls, and cap are 1/8" thick except where the fittings are (1/4" instead). The inside cavity measures 1.75"x1.75"x.75" deep. The pins are full height and are milled in reverse (material removed around the pins) from the base stock. The cap fits in a groove around the top edge and is a sweat fit. The pins have full contact with the cap, and are part of the base, so heat transfer is pretty good. With my radiator inlet uncovered, I run about 2C over ambient according to MBM. With the front fascia in place, it's about 5C difference, I have my c2-600 backed down to 900 MHZ for 24 hour stability so i can fold 24/7/365 without worry.Sweet design. I was thinking of building a block at the shop tommarow (the mill won't be used tommarow, so nows my chance). I don't have any copper kicking around, but I do have a lot of T6 aluminum thats 1" thick. I can also get some silver at the local coin shop.
I was going to build an open chamber block with a silverplate on the bottom that contacts the water. But now I'm thinking I'll make up a quick mold out of aluminum, and cast the bottom plate (from silver) with pin spikes in it. Think it will be an arse kicker?
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 02:56 AM
Be careful what you ask for. The reason these are probably not going to see production in their current form is that they take 3 HOURS to mill on a CNC machine. Thankfully I didn't have to pay retail rates on the mill time (normally $65/hour). The one I am using works VERY well. I have 3 others that are not in use, the last prototype may show up somewhere shortly. :)
dimmreaper
03-20-01, 03:17 AM
Newbie_Doo (Mar 20, 2001 02:56 a.m.):
Be careful what you ask for. The reason these are probably not going to see production in their current form is that they take 3 HOURS to mill on a CNC machine. Thankfully I didn't have to pay retail rates on the mill time (normally $65/hour). The one I am using works VERY well. I have 3 others that are not in use, the last prototype may show up somewhere shortly. :)Yeah, but I can crank out the hollow upper section in about 3 minutes. All I have to do is insert a 1.8" end mill in to the mills head. Center the 2x2" block up. Lower the mill till its .2" off the table. Then chuck a 0.75" drill in the drill press, and drill two holes on the top of the block for inlets.
The mold for the spiked silver plate will be the hard part. I'll have to take a big chunk of mild steel, mill a 2x2x0.25" section out of it. Then I will have to drill some 0.1" holes 0.75" deep within that section.
All I have to do the is melt the silver in an iron ladle with the torch, and poor it in to the pre-warmed mold.
Easy as pie. Might take me an hour and a half tops.
I find it hard to believe those guys are telling you it took 3 hours to mill that block out, assuming they used a CNC mill. Copper is very soft, softer than aluminum, so it machines very quickly. If I had access to a CNC mill(I will have to make due with a 1950s Bridgeport) I could make one of those blocks in 20-30min. Plus $65 an hour is kind of steep. Here in Michigan you can get custom machining done for only $55 an hour. You can get production (minimum order of 500 units) done for only $35 an hour. Unfortunately my Dad's shop only does machining on custom parts used by the company (other wise we would already be producing waterblocks, as they are low cost / high return products).
Newbie_Doo
03-20-01, 08:38 AM
When you are using a .100" end mill and expecting it to go .75" deep, it gets kind of hairy. We went through 3 bits to make 5 blocks. If I was just making a hollow cavity instead of machining around the pins, it would have taken about 8 minutes. Although C110 is softer than steel, it does have a tendency to wrap cuttings around the bit and bind up.
Newbie_Doo
03-22-01, 12:59 PM
Metaxas,
You've left us all hanging on the edge of our chairs waiting for the results of your watercooling expedition.
Any updates you'd care to share with us? :)
Metaxas
03-22-01, 03:48 PM
UPDATE:
I got my reservoir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I have another stick of Mushkin ram on the way, guarenteed CAS 2.0 at 142+Mhz.... woohoo... :) The reservoir is being set up right now, and will run until tommorrow sometime, and then....then....benchmark lovin will commence. Providing it works.......... ;D
Metaxas (Mar 22, 2001 03:48 p.m.):
UPDATE:
I got my reservoir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I have another stick of Mushkin ram on the way, guarenteed CAS 2.0 at 142+Mhz.... woohoo... :) The reservoir is being set up right now, and will run until tommorrow sometime, and then....then....benchmark lovin will commence. Providing it works.......... ;D
Good to hear it's going together, finally!!
"Ahead, warp factor one, Mr. Sulu....."
Mr B
Metaxas
03-23-01, 03:46 PM
Note to everyeone, I just got back online, my cable has been out all of yesterday, and last night, and just got turned back on today. (Some moron cut something or something.) My water cooling system was here yesterday, and has run overnight successfully. Zero leaks, I evern jiggled it around a bit, still no leaks and everything is tight. So the system will be set up sometime tonight I think, my dad is going to do it for me...(isn't he such a sport) and then when I get home, I will be able to install Win2k and do some burn in, and then later this weekend, I will be able to overclock and benchmark. Gotta go to work right now though....DOH. :)
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