View Full Version : Cold MAZE3
tripwire
09-08-02, 02:58 PM
I have a maze 3 setup, and it while the system is running, the copper block, not the lucite, but the copper is cold to the touch, sometimes luke warm, but usually lower than room temp. But with my t-bird 1330 @ 1595, I get temps as high as 52-53 with no fans. Why is the block cold, the water warm, and the cpu hot?
Iron Hawk
09-08-02, 03:10 PM
its prolly because the center part of the block is doing all of the work. the side of mine feels about room temp. try reseating the water block, and be sure the springs are clamped down to the point where they are allmost completly compact.
tripwire
09-08-02, 03:12 PM
the springs are about to snap it looks like. well, I just wondering if that was normal.. I guess it is. Also, I was wondering whats more effective of a flow: Water flows in the Center, or the Water flows out thru the center?
Iron Hawk
09-08-02, 03:24 PM
Water in through the center.
safemode
09-08-02, 03:53 PM
this is one of them efficiency problems. The thing is logically, from the outside towards the inside is the best way. This is because as heat spreads through the base of the block the hottest part is in the center and the lowest temp is in the outside. This means for the best temp differential you want the coldest water hitting the least warmest spots of the block to absorb as much of that heat as possible and goto the center where the differential is only growing because the temp is so much hotter on the block than the water has been made by the outside. So effectively you pick up more heat this way. In reality we see better temps going the opposite direction and this is due to the fact that the copper is not transferring heat to the outer regions fast enough so there is little if any heat on the outside portions of the block anyway. Thick bases play into this since heat transferrate requires a higher heat conductivity as the distance the heat has to travel increases. If you want to give as much of the heat to the water as possible you'd want thick base over the core and then thinner towards the outside areas where the water is traveling. Again, the effective cooling area of a copper block is probably no bigger than the size of the cpu. Blocks are made bigger not to cool better but to take advantage of the mounting holes instead of clips. Also in pretty designs for lucite tops to get blocks sold. I think this is fairly evident in the fact that the maze2 and maze3 blocks perform basically the same despite obvious size differences.
tripwire
09-08-02, 03:57 PM
well, at first I thought it'd be better to have it flow from the center to the outside, but was getting HORRID tempertures, so I swamped it, got better temps, and just 5 minutes ago I swapped it back the first way I ahd it, and see no difference in temps with how I had it last... strange.
grunjee
09-08-02, 04:20 PM
I'm glad you posted this thread because I've wondered the same thing for a long time.
Of course in my case I know my block isn't mounted flat and there isn't much I can do about it, but that's another issue I need to email Danger Den about.
tripwire
09-08-02, 04:22 PM
hey grunjee, IM not retarted... but how do u get the link to show up in your profile for heatware. I can't get the HTML to load up, it just displays the code :(. got some help for a loser? I want a direct link, this crap is bugging me, cuz I know people are too lazy to enter in the URL by hand.
illbreakit
09-08-02, 05:00 PM
http://www.heatware.com/eval.php4?id=4238 here's his url.
Don't know why it doesn't show on yours, my comp worked fine. Might be something in your internet options.
tripwire
09-08-02, 05:10 PM
what I meant was how he got the "My Heatware" link, that linked to his URL. I have tryed to do the HTML for it in the my profile, but i just shows the HTML, and not the link.
Iron Hawk
09-08-02, 05:31 PM
[**URL=http://www.heatware.com/eval.php4?id=10223]My HEATWARE[**/URL]
remove the *s from it and put it in your profile
RnPgrosz
09-08-02, 07:42 PM
I had the same problem with my Maze 3, when I first mounted it I got temps around 50C. It was mounted backwards(was not touching all of the core), I turned it around and my temps were great.:)
tripwire
09-08-02, 07:44 PM
u also have an Athlon XP I see. The WAttage for an XP is MUCH lower. BTW, what mobo do u have that reads ONDIE?
JFettig
09-08-02, 08:05 PM
it just wasnt mounted properly the first time, thats probably the only reason why
tripwire
09-08-02, 08:07 PM
no... I have never moved the Block since the first time it was on... I just swapped the tubes. I know its on right, I can tell when its not. Just to clear that up.
RnPgrosz
09-09-02, 04:11 PM
Originally posted by tripwire
u also have an Athlon XP I see. The WAttage for an XP is MUCH lower. BTW, what mobo do u have that reads ONDIE?
I have the 8k3a+ which reads the ondie temps. Overclocked my XP is dissipating about 140w which is a lot. :)
Lusankya
09-09-02, 04:17 PM
I thought only senior members could have URL's in their signatures...
tripwire
09-09-02, 04:34 PM
no, thats not true. I believe the way the rules work, that anyone can have a link to places in a list of theirs.. and senior members can have a link to anywhere.
Milkman
09-09-02, 04:34 PM
No the mods recommend putting Heatware Url's in your sig.
tripwire
09-09-02, 04:37 PM
What do u have voltage up to? I imagine you HAVE to have a volt mod. No way it could run 2009 at 1.75
RnPgrosz
09-09-02, 07:32 PM
Originally posted by tripwire
What do u have voltage up to? I imagine you HAVE to have a volt mod. No way it could run 2009 at 1.75
The 8k3a+ has vcore adjustments upto 2.2v with no volt mod, one of the many great features. Also, most boards let you go upto 1.85v so even then I wouldn't be at 1.75v. I am planning on going with a 226w peltier which should let me lower the vcore and increase the overclock a little more.
tripwire
09-09-02, 07:36 PM
wow, thats an awesome board. Never heard of any mobo running of having the ability to run 2.2v's with out a volt mod... simply outstanding.
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