View Full Version : EVAPORATIVE COOLING?
Steve (Xjinn from another forum) has an article about this on the front page. For one who chooses to have part of their cooling apparatus outside the main box, this may be one of the most revolutionary discoveries in oveclocking. You thoughts or are you on your way to the hardware store?
Thelemac
04-22-01, 02:14 AM
I rather like the idea. I'm thinking of a way to set it up in one of those YY cube cases that Shadow ÒÓ was working on for Stolid. Maybe with a couple of them.
i have an idea for it: why not make it semi- self-contained? put an evaporator on the end and recapture most of the outgoing 'steam' water vapor, then you don't have to fill it up with the house plants.
why not use a mister instead of a shower head? that coupled with a tall tube would make it more efficient, no?
Jono
ps: i've never done any type of extreme cooling, but i did take some classes in physics...
J
I am a fan of a very subtle, self contained box but this idea has me so jazzed even I dreamed about it last night. It’s also the first computer project my wife has raised an eyebrow to. The ability to cool two 172 watt TECs and get all of the goodies from local suppliers intrigues me. I have not been this excited about computers since I purchased a KT7-R and an 800 Bird. I wanted to wait for the other forumites reactions but sorry, I could not wait to post this.
i was thinking about a self contained system, and the problems it would cause. the thing that got me thinking first was when the author stated not using antifreeze because of the danger in an open system. then it started raining outside. a lot of energy(heat) is gained or lost when a substance goes through a phase change. water to vapor 'eats' heat, vapor to water 'releases' heat, right? problem being the temperatures at which this happens is to far apart and to far away to be useful.
here's the kicker: what about a different substance? my girlfriend found a substance called an amylene(c5,h10) that is a liquid at room temperature, and boils at approx. 40* C.
although not needed, a metal-to-metal hs could be used to keep ambeient temps inside the closed system.
Can someone please tell if i'm missing something? Physics was a few years ago...
Jono
William
04-22-01, 03:17 AM
your coolant is likely to get to 40C or around there, so you will probably have a lot evaporating. This water tower has me so psyched for my summer rig in the summer, i have already thought of so many things to do with it, some not so good. I am also intrigued by this concept of the huge pvc housing, what if you made a huge copper coil and had a few fan blowing up, that would be a great radiator! lets see, how could we improve on an already great thing, the mister sounds great, you just might end up loosing a lot more water that way. My concern is vapor loss and how to reduce it. What if a condenser loop of some sort was added., especially if a mister is used. That would reduce the amount of vapor escaping. I really like the idea of the waterfall design, could run some on the outside and make some nice little sculpture thing. My main concern is the mist, but by adding maybe a u type thing would keep mist from coming out. This is definately worth pursuing, i love this idea! This is gonna be used in my water cooled system this summer.
Two or three fine mesh filters at the top of the tube should handle the majority of the mist.
William
04-22-01, 03:44 AM
thats what i figure, but with a U you could add a tube to return some of the water. Not going to be a lot anyways, just random brainstorms as this is such a great idea.
I reckon collecting the water is definetley a good idea. A project I did a while ago was a jam jar filled half way with water put onto a cpu. The glass was kept cool by a fan. The water would evaporate and then hit the cold glass and lose the heat as it changes and goes back into the water. I hope Dan doesn't mind me putting a link here:
http://www.spodesabode.com/articles/jamjar/index.html
Perhaps it may be useful.
What I didnt understand about the pvc thing was, is there a fan inside that thing somewhere and if so where?
The fan mounts on the slanted junction and lightly blows air into it. the air goes up the stack while the water rains down. The air brushing the water evaporates some of it into water vapor, taking heat along with it. Great concept as long as you can keep your room comfortable in the summer. As the humidity goes up in the ambient air, less evaporation occurs and less heat is carried off. For those of us in cold climates, this can be a nice way to humidify the house during the long winter. I don't think a mister would work as well, because it will not allow as much water to flow (less gph). I like Spodes idea of the evaporative still. A piece of metal pipe would do a better job of condensing than glass, but then there is the introduction of contaminants to consider, as well as corrosion over time and evaporative stills that use water are slow recovery systems without some form of active cooling on the condensing surface.
Hoot
The Stickie
04-22-01, 11:11 AM
wow all this fuz...
I'mworking on the same idea fro a few weeks now... cause I liked the idea of watercooling and didn't like to purchase a radiator...
I made it whit a aluminium pipe (about 1m in length, 20cm wide) an it does fine, but I didn't install it to my system yet (I don't have a waterblock for my cpu(yet) :-() Didn't know this was so revolutionnary...
My model is more silent (cause I use something to catch the drops before they hit the water,and because i use thick aluminium ... I have build 2 reversed U-forms on it with a nice outlet fan each... in these U forms a lot of water condenses and goes back down...
also the alumium works a bit like a heatsink for the hot air/water
but anyway... I don't know wether mine performs better/worse because I never tested it and I could never compare it with radiators as I aid before...
Hoot (Apr 22, 2001 10:31 a.m.):
The fan mounts on the slanted junction and lightly blows air into it. the air goes up the stack while the water rains down. The air brushing the water evaporates some of it into water vapor, taking heat along with it. Great concept as long as you can keep your room comfortable in the summer. As the humidity goes up in the ambient air, less evaporation occurs and less heat is carried off. For those of us in cold climates, this can be a nice way to humidify the house during the long winter. I don't think a mister would work as well, because it will not allow as much water to flow (less gph). I like Spodes idea of the evaporative still. A piece of metal pipe would do a better job of condensing than glass, but then there is the introduction of contaminants to consider, as well as corrosion over time and evaporative stills that use water are slow recovery systems without some form of active cooling on the condensing surface.
HootThats what I thought but in the pic, it looked like the vapor was coming out of the side vent. That confused me. Thanks Hoot.
for those desiring to ADD humidity to the house's interior, I guess ...
but the article's author lives in New England, and does not pay the utility bills
I live in an air conditioned house in Houston (for which I pay the electric bills - AVG $450/mo in summer), and I'm not going to even think about dumping that moisture in the house
for me the ideal system is silent, I can quiet a fan or two more easily than a urinal
be cool
Just a thought from a newbie on here, the author of the article states that you would have to put something in the water in order to kill off potential germs collected, however with the high temp. of the water in the tower, would that not be high enough to kill off any potential germs and or bacteria?
Rain
coldmop
04-22-01, 07:54 PM
Maybe a better way is to have the mist fall on a rad so the coolant can still be a closed loop. Cool mist hitting a metal rad with a fan blowing on it and you are all set. There are some neat looking wall mounted water fountains available that pose as decoration. Thats where the cooling tower belongs. Turn it into art.
Just some ideas
At my house I have a swamp cooler or evaporative cooler. The way you can get rid of the falling water noise is get some material that they use in swamp coolers and stuff it down where the water falls down. The water then will have more time to cool off by the air as it trickles down the material.
I just had a couple of ideas for your cooler. They may not works seeing as I have no degree in this field but, here it goes. Haver ever tried to use a humidfier I know alot of those cool the water down quite a bit. Also not positive if this would work but if you put maybe a coper block over half the top some of the water would probably condense on cold copper. Not sure if any of this would work but I think the humidfier may work. That was good article going to have to build myself one of these.
That has to be one of the best new ideas around for a while. The ideas already flowing will make this an interesting topic for some time to come.
Stickie, you got any pictures of your rig?
Hoot
dimmreaper
04-23-01, 01:29 AM
Colin (Apr 22, 2001 02:11 a.m.):For one who chooses to have part of their cooling apparatus outside the main box, this may be one of the most revolutionary discoveries in oveclocking.I'd hardly call it "revolutionary", I wouldn't call it a "discovery" either.
Here is a much older (june of 2000) article about evaporative cooling, a different method was used, but it's still evaporative cooling an OCed CPU.
http://www.overclockers.com/tips89/index07.asp
once he can configure it to work as a bong and a cooling rig at the same time then i'm sold. j/k
Evaporative Cooling: On the one hand, most of the cooling is achieved by vaporating the water, so the more water evaporates, the better the cooling. On the other hand, more evaporation means more mist and moisture. If you want to use pumps rated at about 200gph and a strong fan (might become necessary for a dual TBird rig with peltiers) you will have to find a way to recapture as much "steam" as possible. A double U should perform quite well in addition to moisture filters. With these you should also be able to reduce the waterfall noise a lot. Plus, you can use standard sound insulation around the pipe. By the way, a PVC tube should perform better than a metal one cause the water is cooled below ambient and so the pvc works as an thermal insolation. A biger pipe should perform better than a thinner one cause the water can be spread more efficient. And the longer the distance the water has to fall from the shower head, the better the cooling. But in every case, the better the cooling, the more mist you will get. So I'm interested in your solutions to handle it. And I'm looking for a way to fit such a thing into a case. Is there a big server case or do I have ti build my own?
Another thread has been discussing using a 5'cubic freezer to keep water cool.
Go here to read more and see pics.
http://www.jersey.net/~kenl/maxoc/index.html
I was wondering if Evaporative Water Cooling could be used with a freezer?
If it could then it might eliminate 2 of the main problems. First with a sealed freezer the noise of water falling will be dampened. Second with an air tight seal moister will be trapped and prevented from escaping.
There's an idea - get a really small 'micro fridge' and send a line of your water cooling through it - should be highly effective - plus you can put stuff in it ^_^ (naturally, the size of the fridge is based on your mobility desires - maybe we can find one less than a square foot or so.) The danger of condensation is basically nill - so long as you insulate the input/output lines of your water cooling system well (and even then - it's like leaving the fridge open, I've never seen condensation from that) - and considering you can still use it for your consumables - it's not really expensive either. Any opinions?
Stolid
Did anyone read my ideas for the evaporative cooler? Its up a ways. The best idea is the stuff they use in swamp coolers to just shove it down in the Tube.
shoot, why not? use a big peltier to cook 'burgers, and a fridge to keep the beer cold, and both to keep that cpu cool.
next week, www.overclockers.com forum members use tin foil and a sack of potatoes to contact space station alpha...and mow the yard.
Jono
Stolid (Apr 23, 2001 09:20 p.m.):
There's an idea - get a really small 'micro fridge' and send a line of your water cooling through it - should be highly effective - plus you can put stuff in it ^_^ (naturally, the size of the fridge is based on your mobility desires - maybe we can find one less than a square foot or so.) The danger of condensation is basically nill - so long as you insulate the input/output lines of your water cooling system well (and even then - it's like leaving the fridge open, I've never seen condensation from that) - and considering you can still use it for your consumables - it's not really expensive either. Any opinions?
Stolid
1g_raider
04-24-01, 01:12 AM
Xerka (Apr 23, 2001 09:42 p.m.):
Did anyone read my ideas for the evaporative cooler? Its up a ways. The best idea is the stuff they use in swamp coolers to just shove it down in the Tube.
I like your idea of using the "swamp cooler " material. It would cause the water droplets to be sustained in the air for a longer period of time and allowing for more time to loose the heat. It would also eliminate the misting greatly. The only drawback is the material would degrade over time and contaminate the system. Maybe some sort of a plastic fiber would be better.
1g_raider
04-24-01, 01:39 AM
[quote]MsNath (Apr 23, 2001 07:24 p.m.):
Another thread has been discussing using a 5'cubic freezer to keep water cool.[quote]
I have thought about this one also. The best thing about it I can think of is that I can keep a 12 pack in the computer room with me. No more long walks to the kitchen.
O.K. I'm sold.... I'm getting the fridge..........
Caravan
04-24-01, 05:40 AM
On the fridge note... Why not just put the entire computer inside? When you do that.. The ambient temp is then the temp of the fridge and ther wouldn't be any condensation, right? If it's in a frezer... all of the water droplets would be frozen and there would be no moisture at all. You could run a good heat sink with as loud a fan as you like because fridges are insulated.
TechnoFile
04-24-01, 07:20 AM
Every time You opened the door to the fridge/freezer you'd be letting in fresh, moist(and warm, for that matter) air. This air would then cool, leaving the water to condense on the nearest surface. Haven't you every had to defrost a freezer before? You'd have to either mount all the switches and drives externally, or keep opening the door. Its a nice thought, though.
Caravan
04-24-01, 07:37 AM
Hmm... Defrost. Hadn't thought of that. It's kinda late for me. I'm a 3rd shifter. A fridge would work if you mouted the switches on the outside, though. I almost did it a couple of months back... I would have mounted the MB right to the bottom so that my GForce would be cooled a touch more by convection. Oh well. Didn't want to spend the 100 bucks on the fridge at the time (even though I've spent close to it on watercooling).
1g_raider
04-24-01, 11:11 AM
I just had to jump back in here and revive this topic as it seems I sent it south with the refrigerator stuff.
Back to the original subject and the idea that came up about packing the tube with " Swamp Cooler " material. I get the feeling you guys don't know exactly what a Swamp Cooler is.... The idea comes from the original idea of placing a bail of hay in a window and soaking it with water. Then you place a fan in front of it and draw air through the water soaked bail to produce a cooling effect. I've seen it used a lot in greenhouses.
In using it to suit the purpose here you could fill the PVC upper level with some sort of fiber and drip the hot water on the top of the fiber allowing it to slowly make its way down to the reservoir at the bottom as opposed to spraying it into an open space. The end result is you don't need as much pressure to produce the spray and you eliminate the misting involved with the original idea. The water droplets are suspended in the cooling chamber longer, therefore you get more time for the water to cool. You can also push a little more air through this way because you wont have the mist to worry about.
Sorry about the rant but I feel it is a good solution to some of the original problems listed.
Sounds like a great idea but don't these types of coolers loose there efficiency in humid weather? I would like to build and test one but I am not sure if it will work in the hot, humid summer here.
Deviant
04-24-01, 03:35 PM
Wouldn't it still work well in hot humid summers? It won't be as good as winter, but neither is a HSF or water cooling. As long as it's better . Remember water cooling and HSF will always remain above ambient, but vapo chilling can get below ambient.
As for sticking you computer in a freezer, etc, I doubt it will work. A freezer is thermally insulated and has no heat sources inside generating heat. 300 watts of computer inside will keep it in a defrosted state meaning the compressor will be running full time. It may be better than ambient, but it would cost alot to run, be very large and not transportable.
Hey 1g_raider I know that if you used the wood swamp cooler material it would degrade and clog up your pump, but they also have the plastic sort of fiber pads that you can use they are cheap, dont cool quite as well as the aspen wood but it would last a while.
1g_raider
04-24-01, 05:12 PM
Xerka (Apr 24, 2001 04:35 p.m.):
Hey 1g_raider I know that if you used the wood swamp cooler material it would degrade and clog up your pump, but they also have the plastic sort of fiber pads that you can use they are cheap, don't cool quite as well as the aspen wood but it would last a while.
Hang in there Xerka, I'm going to do some research tonight after I get the little raider in bed. I have liked this idea from the beginning and I like it better now that I have slept on it. I used to work in a greenhouse that used to use this sort of cooling and I still have a few resources to get some ideas from. I likes this concept from the get-go after reading the original post on the home page here. I didn't like the idea of making a humid mist in the house. This idea eliminates that problem and should cool even better if my gut feeling is correct.
If I come up with anything I'll post it here later. I already have the water cooling system in place and I am ready to build and hook this thing up.
1g_raider
04-25-01, 03:09 PM
I did some looking around on the web last night and I couldn't find anywhere that sold just the "mat" or medium that is used in swamp coolers. I still have some contacts who own greenhouses and I will contact them to see where I can get some.
I live in the south ( NC ) and it gets very humid here so I'm a little worried about just how effective it will be here unless I run the AC on high full time. It will be running hard this summer anyway so what's the big deal. When I get it up and running I will post results. It might be a while ......
If you have a big enough water resivore this system may be closable.
Simply have a sealed plastic fan blowing above shower head into a bigger plastic tube with an elbow.
I figure the water vapor is there because of the fan and a little because of its heat.So if you created a top above the shower head bigger than the shower head pipe with negitive air preassure and a down angle you would recover most of the fine mist,to be realy fancy put the pelt on the recovery end of the system and allow the misted water to filter through a pelt cooled fin system.Now all recovered mist would instantly be turned back to water and chilled dripping into the systems resivore !!!!!!!!!
.
Shadow ÒÓ
04-25-01, 05:01 PM
alot of you are missing a very important part here. evaporative cooling MUST exhaust the vapor. If you tried to collect the moisture to re-use, it would be a watercooling system and not a vapor cooling.
There' s a long thread on this over at Hard Op, but basically it takes a lot of energy to vaporize water.....it takes even more to liquify vapor. If you don't let the vapor escape, you're defeating the whole purpose.
Hey 1g raider,
Today I went to ace hardware and got all my parts. I looked around and found the synthetic material used in Swamp Coolers it was a huge roll for 1.19$. Should have all my stuff set up soon but I forgot pvc cement so I have to ride my bike up there tommorow.(YEAH thats right i cant drive yet)
Lummoxx
04-26-01, 10:20 AM
Just a thought...
Since you lose water in this setup, perhaps at the base of the pipe, you could have a water holding tank. Run the same kind of tubing that's used for refrigerator ice makers to it, and use a toilet, floating bubble system to maintain the water level.
Hehe...how complicated can we make it?
With a way to automaticaly replenish the water supply how about exhausting the vapor to the outside then the promblem of moisture in the house goes away. I think we can come up with a better way of keeping the resivour full then the above post though hehe, but the idea is right.
Lummoxx
04-26-01, 11:57 AM
Gah...the melding of computers and toilets is inevitable!!!
It doesn't take much imagination to realize ALL the potential benefits. :)
Hey ken, why do you think that the toilet idea is bad. That would be pretty simple to do I think. What were you thinking of doing to keep the water level up.
Just Wondering
Also hey 1g_raider i posted up a little way s about the swamp cooler material.
Shadow ÒÓ
04-28-01, 12:18 PM
not a bad idea at all, bit complicated getting to a water supply probably, but not a bad idea.
LimeyGreg
04-28-01, 02:50 PM
Recently I have been looking into installing an inexpensive cooling system into my house and evaporative cooling is the main option I have been looking at - if you do a search for "Indirect Evaporative Cooling" on Google you will find a ton of information. The "aspen" wood fiber evap material is giving way to more efficient rigid media. Some mist recovery can be achieved by using "S" shaped exit tubes that cause droplets to impinge on the sides and collect and then return to the resevoir.
The most efficient system provides just the right balance of evaporation without including small droplets (aerosols) into the exhaust airstream as this means more liquid consumption etc. There are chemicals that can be added to prevent biological growths as well as vastly increase the level at which minerals will be held in solution before they precipitate out. Also, the "face velocity" of the air stream at the evaporative media is an important factor, too slow gives less cooling, too fast causes droplets and increased liquid loss for no extra cooling.
In the system you are looking at, you do not want the cool/humid exhaust but the cooled water as it collects in the resevoir, so holding it in an evporative media may not necessarily be what you want.
In an indirect system the cooled air is used to then cool the secondary system via a heat exchanger, or to improve efficiency of a current convention phase change system.
I have been toying with the idea of making an indirect system with a small heat exchanger placed in the resevoir at the bottom of the cooling tower, then the fluid passing through this H/E can be used to cool your cpu - in short, put your presently air cooled radiator into the cooling tower resevoir ! A more efficient way may be to use the radiator as a "water deck" where the water is misted or sprayed into the air just prior to it getting to the wet deck. The net effect is to cool the air, and to wet the radiator fins where further eavporation and cooling will take place before the warm humid air is exhausted.
Spodes jam jar project is in actual fact a "heat pipe". There are now comercial heat exchangers based on heat pipes, although I am sure they are quite expensive, but very efficient.
ps. sorry for the long post.
Hey limey greg,
I believe I read the exact same article as you, but you read the whole thing with detail. All of these ideas sound good. Just wondering would if you had the swamp cooler material in the pipe but not hangin down in the water? Oh yeah and could you post the article that you read about this.
William
04-29-01, 01:01 AM
hmm, the heat exchanger is not even more interesting. What chemicals did they say to put in the water?
The only problem with this setup seems to be the losing the coolant quickly and the releasing of humidity into the air right? well why can't you re-route the water vapor, cool it [with a fan] and pour it back in? Maybe I am missing something. I don't know much about thermodynamics[did I even spelll that right LOL]
ok..I hope Dan doesn't mind me posting these links as well, but I think they might be useful or at least interesting...one of my admins is into water & evap cooling:
Evap cooling (http://pub25.ezboard.com/fcompuforumfrm4.showMessage?topicID=361.topic)
Just note the top two pics...cool (http://pub25.ezboard.com/fcompuforumfrm4.showMessage?topicID=337.topic)
Babster
04-29-01, 06:47 AM
Betty, you ARE shameless!
Yes, I've got a 4" tower going, and running my 1.2 gib at 1333 (10x133) on a KA266-raid, I'm managing to get water temps of about 21C while running RC5. Room temp is 23-25C. I'm finding the biggest problem is that the water is evaporating just too dang fast. There's about 10" of reservoir space which holds 1/2 of a gallon (0.653 gal/foot of 4"PVC), and it disappears in about 8 hours. Thank goodness for MBM and the shutdown command. :)
Regarding the Cordley water chiller - I found that it COULD NOT keep up with the heat output from the 1.2 gig tbird. Maybe because it's a much older, less efficient model than the Sparklets cooler shown in the Leufkins (?) article (It's all metal). The water temp would always creep up to above room temp, even though the thing drops a gallon to a gallon and a half of water from room temp to the 4C range in about 15 minutes.
For those I've seen bandying about the idea of using a small refrigerator to keep your water cold - FORGET IT!! If this chiller can't keep up, there is no way on earth a tiny fridge is going to. They are NOT designed for a constant heat input.
Right now I've added some screening to the evap tower that helped cut down the noise, and I AM working on setting up a water line to my computer room that will be hooked up to a toilet float valve inside the tower. More to follow. I've got to get some lawn work down or the yard police will take me away! ^_^
Just wanted to show you guys this good website I found. There are many good sites like this you just have to search for evaporative cooling towers. This site a company that sell industrial grade water towers. It even has pics about how there towers work. http://www.marleyct.com/ Pretty soon I am going to try to build a Cooling system that uses a BOX instead of a Tube.
tongboy
04-30-01, 11:15 AM
I absolutly love this cooling method.
and it's really nice that my dad just happens to do landscape irrigation so I have everything I need to build thousands of these at my house.
So what I'm going to do over this week is build a very number of them ranging from 2 inch pipe or whatever is the smallest I can get my pump into to probably 8 inch pipe. I'll try different ways to spread the water out like screens and shower heads, and sprinkler heads. and basically just find out the performance curve of these things.
Lummoxx
04-30-01, 11:48 AM
Babster (Apr 29, 2001 06:57 a.m.):
...
and I AM working on setting up a water line to my computer room that will be hooked up to a toilet float valve inside the tower
...
Hehe! I can see it now...in the year 2525, when the average American is asked what improved his life the most, the reply from many will be, "Why, the fusion of computers and toilets, of course!"
:)
LimeyGreg
05-01-01, 01:25 AM
Reclaiming water vapor from the exhaust to any great amount is not really a viable idea with such a small cooler, my info was pertaining more to large coolers where efficiency and collection of aerosols has a long term cost impact. To reclaim evaporatives would require cooling the exhaust to cause condensation - but this takes energy, it would be more efficient to use that energy in cooling. As was mentioned, a panel with many small bore s-curved exit tubes can collect larger aerosols from the exhaust airstream.
The new rigid evap media being used is a ribbed membrane. The ribs form a 45 degree channel for the water to trickle down from the top and towards the fan (against air flow), and a 15 degree channel that the air flow passes through and across the water that is flowing down. It's kind of difficult to describe in words, I will try to find the url that has a picture.
As far as chemicals, I will also try to find the url, but I think that in such a small evap the main prob would be biological growths. Mineral precipitation is more of a concern in large coolers that run unattended for a season, it has a big effect on efficiency. Frequently purging a large system is wasteful, so chemical modifiers are more useful against mineral concentration, in the "Bong Cooler" I think purging the water would be a better way. One option for biological control is to place say a small silver chain into the water, silver is well know for it's anti-biological action and is commonly used in small amounts in disposable carbon water filters to control internal growths.
To address the coolant into the air and the increase of humidity. That is why I suggested the "indirect" approach whereby you would only lose water and would not compromise your current sealed system and it's coolant. The idea would be to put the "bong" into the window area and vent it to the outside, or maybe via a dryer vent kit. Then bring secondary lines from the heat exchanger that is in the cooling tower to your computer liquid cooling system.
If you want to make your case portable then install two barbs at the back to connect to the cooler, when you want to move the case, say to a lan party - just use a small length of tube between the barbs.
I do not have my water system finished yet, I am waiting for a friend to lend me a small milling machine so that I can make my waterblock - which is the only thing holding me up as I have all of the other stuff ready to go..
KnowOne
05-01-01, 10:15 AM
UNDERSTANDING EVAPORATIVE COOLING
http://idh.vita.org/pubs/docs/uec.html
A great but long paper. It's well worth the read.
KnowOne
05-01-01, 10:36 AM
70 ton air conditioning COOLING TOWERS on ebay for $700.00
I sure you could mod this to cool your cpu. But that might be over kill.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=584553552
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