This drill-press any good for making blocks?

[strokeside]

Here are it's specs:
Depth gauge.
Chuck guards.
230V motor.
Table tilts 0 to 45 degrees left and right.
Large column support and castings for extra strength and stability.
Safety cut-out on belt guard.
5 speeds adjustable 545 to 2530rpm.
Magnetic on/off safety switch.
Sturdy cast iron construction.
13mm chuck.
Overall height 515mm.
Table 165 x 162mm.


It's cheap enough and will be used for drilling copper and aluminium.
Can someone please tell me the rpm speeds I should aim for when drilling copper, and when drilling aluminium? Should I go as fast as possible, or slow? What is a good lubricant for the bit, to use when drilling??
I wanna make sure I get it right.

[frostmeister]

Well, I used a drill press for making my 3 waterblocks so far, and yes, it's doable. As drill presses vary so much in quality and features - as with anything - I'd need to see it, or get my hands on it to really tell you. The things you want to look for are that there's no play in the drill column. Pull the handle down a bit, and see if you can push the drill chuck back up without moving the column wind don handle. Also, see if you can push the drill head from side to side very much. Things only need to have about 1/2 a millimeter of play or movemnt in them for things to start to get tricky. That's when the mill / drill bit will "bite" into the work and start making untidy corners and edges. It's lot more work making a waterblock on a drill press than you might think. Also, you'll need a cross vice if you're going to mill straight channels - a work vice you can bolt to the drill table and move in the X and Y directions. This alo tends to have some play in it too, and it all adds up. I'm going to get a milling machine in the near future to make some proper blocks and fittings with, but then I'm a perfectionist with probably too much money and time on my hands. I've achieved acceptable results though, as shown below:
http://mysite.freeserve.com/toomuchtime/nbfluxed2.jpg
edit: as for cooling fluids, I haven't used any; just take it slow. OR - I have seen engineering sites recommend normal milk instead of cutting fluid. Cutting fluid is easy enough to buy though, from an engineering suppliers.
more edit: The exact RPM depends on your drill bit; my swiss tech mills and drills, (TiCN type) like about 1300RPM. I whack the drill up as fast as it'll go and give it some welly though. Naughty me :D

[NeoMoses]

Warning: Buying a drill press to make waterblocks will inevitably lead to buying a milling machine. It is more addictive than cocaine!

Six months ago I went down the exact same road you are heading down right now. I bought an inexpensive drill press for about $250, fitted it with a nice x-y table, and bought some end mills. Total price was around $400. I made a couple of waterblocks, then decided to throw caution to the wind and bought a milling machine. At last count I had spent over $5000 on equipment!

Save yourself some time/money and just buy a mill/drill like JFettig has from Homier. You should be able to get a nice setup for less than $1000, and they are infinitely more useful than a standard drill press. You won't be sorry.

[frostmeister]

Amen brother! I'll testify to NeoMoses there. sorry there, I'm turning into a "happy clapper" after another post on personal belief in pumps... :D It certainly is addictive... Cutting those channels out of that virgin copper, getting that edge just a little flatter... Using a 6 flute solid carbide end mill to face it off after using the superior swarf removal of the twin or tri flute TiCN end mill for taking it down to tolerance... Phew, excuse me, I'm all hot and bothered after that.... hehe!

[JFettig]

:) I love my mill, The mill itself costed 399, then I ended up spending like 600 on it by skimping a little, I have some stuff I need from previous blocks, Youll prob spend around 700 if you do go down that road, otherwize theres some cheap drill presses on homier.com
Here is a review
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Reviews/Homier/Homier_mill_p1.htm
http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/mymill.jpg
thats my mill in the beginning of a waterblock, Had just cut 1 channel.

this mill takes time to set, tighten and clean and lube everything, I still have some tweaking, its a good mill for the price, Theres just a few little things that need figuring out and tightening or something

also, you want SHORT end mills, as short as you only need, they make the nicest channels

I skipped the drillpress stage:D I went strait from the hand drill to the mill;)

-edit- Im making a stand kinda like bladerunners, I hate that table, We just emporarily set it on there and well, never took it off:p

[SkiFletch]

wow, you guys are insane ;)

[[EG]~NaTz~]

i plsn on getting a mill over the summer or for my b-day if i can i would be so physced if i did...

[TonyMc]

Hopefully this spring that mill from Homier will be my next toy:cool:

[JFettig]

Dan, If you dont know the first thing about milling(I assume this) Dont bother getting one till you have some experience, its not just a little toy, its a little different than that

[Valk]

Ok, im getting my dads mill. and im getting pics guys. this thing is brutal... I WANNA PLAY TOO!@

[JFettig]

Im hoping to get a fer DROs digital read outs, for my axises, I like leaving some play in the wheels so its easier movement, but hate the inacuracy, Thats prob my next addition becides the stand

[TonyMc]

Originally posted by JFettig
Dan, If you dont know the first thing about milling(I assume this) Dont bother getting one till you have some experience, its not just a little toy, its a little different than that

I'm not sure if this was directed at me, my names not Dan, but since I called it toy... Anyway I'm all learned up on my milling so it would be a fun toy for me:D :D If that wasn't directed at me then please disregared this post;)

originally posted by JFettig
Im hoping to get a fer DROs digital read outs, for my axises, I like leaving some play in the wheels so its easier movement, but hate the inacuracy, Thats prob my next addition becides the stand

Thats what I hate about my X,Y vise. It's very sloppy, and tightening the set screws only makes it harder to posistion.

[frostmeister]

tell me about the X-Y vice fragnstien... I've "finely honed" mine and bolted it down on the drill table. It's still got enough play coupled with the drill chuck to make those edges wonky... Hoping that buying a decent mill will sort that out. I must say JFettig, your mill looks quite decent, did you say you payed $699 for it with all the accessories? That's a hell of a price for it, as over here, I'm looking at spending £2000 - $3100 in your money for something that looks similar - well, it's square column, M3 arbour and collet chuck, but also has a third axis - the head with the milling motor can also be turned up to 90 degrees either side, o you can mill horizontally too.

[Sean Lindstrom]

Remember that checking for flatness, squareness, measuring and marking all require tools. The more accurate your tools for layout and quality control, the better.

You don't need cutting fluid for copper or aluminum. But use carbide bits, they last much longer.

[NeoMoses]

Originally posted by Sean Lindstrom
You don't need cutting fluid for copper or aluminum. But use carbide bits, they last much longer.

I would recommend using lubricant when cutting copper. Without it you won't get as good of a surface finish, and it will make your tools last MUCH longer. I also use lubricant when I'm taking very aggressive cuts in aluminum. More to keep the tools cool than anything. Aluminum and copper are both bad at "grabbing" the cutting edge and sticking to it. And once that happens, you're no longer cutting the metal, you're just pushing it around.

[frostmeister]

I agree on the cutting fluid NeoMoses. I've heard that ordinary milk works as a cutting fluid too. As long as you clean and WD40 your milling bits after, I can't see a problem there - apart from the milk stinking after a few days if you don't rinse things :( Proper cutting fluid of course would be much better and isn't very expensive. When I got my copper blocks, the guy who cut the copper used a bandsaw with cutting fluid on it. I'm going to make sure my mill has some sort of attachment for this when I get it.

[JFettig]

nope, it was for nats,

Frostmeister
"I must say JFettig, your mill looks quite decent, did you say you payed $699 for it with all the accessories? That's a hell of a price for it, as over here, I'm looking at spending £2000 - $3100 in your money for something that looks similar - well, it's square column, M3 arbour and collet chuck, but also has a third axis - the head with the milling motor can also be turned up to 90 degrees either side, o you can mill horizontally too."
The mill itself was 399, then about 90 to ship it, and another hundred in stuff, I skimped on most of it, The mill needs a little work, cleaning it up, taking it apart and reasembling it for profection

[TonyMc]

Originally posted by frostmeister
tell me about the X-Y vice fragnstien... I've "finely honed" mine and bolted it down on the drill table. It's still got enough play coupled with the drill chuck to make those edges wonky... Hoping that buying a decent mill will sort that out. I must say JFettig, your mill looks quite decent, did you say you payed $699 for it with all the accessories? That's a hell of a price for it, as over here, I'm looking at spending £2000 - $3100 in your money for something that looks similar - well, it's square column, M3 arbour and collet chuck, but also has a third axis - the head with the milling motor can also be turned up to 90 degrees either side, o you can mill horizontally too.

Well for starters I bought mine from JCWhitney for $35.00 so you get what you pay for. Don't get me wrong it's a heavy duty vise, but it's not as accurate as an X, Y table. I get 1/16" of play on the X and 1/32" play on the Y which is quite abit when your trying to create multiple holes on center using a 7/32" bit. I don't cut channels with my press like alot of you do I just make multiple holes then cut the channels open with a dremel (the #Rotor block design) I don't dare try to cut channels with my press as I don't want to kill my expensive press, but someday I will have a mill and be able to create some crazy bladerunner style blocks.;)