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What the!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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ElroyCarbon

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2002
Location
Racine
OK I for the first time in six months saw air bubbles in my system today. I went ahead and filled my res up no biggy, but to my surprise I found that my res lid has cracked around every single mounting screw DAMN! I know this happens from time to time with blocks so I should have seen this coming. Does anyone know why this is? It has to be a combo of heat I would think. This lid is .250" thick and it cracked all the way through. I do NOT have to replace right away, but will replace with somthing less brittle. Ideas welcome. CYA!
 
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LOL thats hardly a reason not to recomend a res, just going to take another method of sealing thats all. I fold 24/7 with 3GHZ, nosure how long this will last with no res. A closed circuit will still have osmosis over time too. I should not have gone with lexan, just did not dawn on me til now duh. BTW epoxy failed already cause it doesnt act like a gasket and the Lexan tried to change shape causing the seal to break and BAM leak. I went with silicon and a much thicker Lexan. I can get just about any material so here we go. Thanks for the reply EC
 
Res.jpg
 
HMM, I was thinking about actually replacing the entire lid, any ideas with what? I will more than likely use the silicon again for the gasket since that seemed to hold OK. I willtry to shoot a photo, just take the above photo and throw a crack at every screw head and it's all the way through too! I have heard of the wayerblocks doing this.
 
Yeah thats about the only material tha comes to mind. I used copper for the waterblock with Brass barbs so an alloy is probably out. To bad a nice thin slice of aluminum would have been nice :)
 
ElroyCarbon said:
LOL thats hardly a reason not to recomend a res, just going to take another method of sealing thats all. I fold 24/7 with 3GHZ, nosure how long this will last with no res. A closed circuit will still have osmosis over time too. I should not have gone with lexan, just did not dawn on me til now duh. BTW epoxy failed already cause it doesnt act like a gasket and the Lexan tried to change shape causing the seal to break and BAM leak. I went with silicon and a much thicker Lexan. I can get just about any material so here we go. Thanks for the reply EC

You're living proof that reservoirs DO leak (granted it was due to bad engineering). That's more than enough reason for me not to recommend them...

I suggest you ditch the lexan/acylic and go with a metal top. The screw holes are too near the edge that' swhy they cracked easily
 
yeah that could be, I was thinking some sort of metal as well, not sure what though. Living proof I am, but if you think for a second every design is full proof the first go round you have alot to learn. I am certain thet the next solution will hold, hence the statement "live and learn". I have not seen anyone else throw a res in a drive bay you? This entire setup is in a mid tower therefore I had to come up with a solution to work with what I had. The fill valve was a NoNo as well. I have no reason not to like a res just cause I had a somewhat difficult experience. I now have some info others on these forums may use at some point. Appreciate the feedback :D

PS what do you guys think about glass, hmm .250" thick?
 
glass could also crack, it wouldnt crack as easily but if it had some kind of impact, KABOOM, no more top, what about more nylon? just use nylon? otherwize I really dont know for sure..
 
I'm willing to bet the top cracked because the screw holes were countersunk. The original Gemini blocks had cracking problems, The Rev2 blocks are said to not have this problem and the only difference I can see with them is the holes aren't countersunk anymore. They might have changed materials too, but I'm not sure about that.

peace.
unloaded
 
AHH good call Unloaded I will ty the same material with NO countersink first. I have 4 more cut out exactly the same way just sitting here, but with no holes tapped yet. I had to purchase a sheet when I did the first lid. Thanks!
 
ElroyCarbon said:
AHH good call Unloaded I will ty the same material with NO countersink first. I have 4 more cut out exactly the same way just sitting here, but with no holes tapped yet. I had to purchase a sheet when I did the first lid. Thanks!

Let us know how it works out. BTW how long did it take for the cracks to appear?

peace.
unloaded
 
that is a hella cool setup. just wondering what all is in it? i like that dye you have in your water. what is it called and where can i get some? im planning on going with water for my next setup, i want it to look cool as well as be funtional.
 
If you have the clearance space in that drive bay I would suggest using washers on the bolts as well.

Speading the compression area out with a washer should help quite a bit.
 
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