The parts I'm about to order, opinions wanted

[Node]

I think I have everything down. Tell me if anything seems wrong, or if you know a place that sells these parts for cheaper.

===========================================

Cathar Waterblock - $101

Dtek heatercore pro combo/shroud - $55 http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/19/93.htm?738

Swiftech MCW50 $38.95 http://coolbreez.com/merchant/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CB&Product_Code=SMVWB

Eheim 1250 Pump - $66.50 http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/110.htm?738

10 Nylon Hose Clamps - $8.50 http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/86.htm?738

1 foot 1/2" tygon tubing - $2.65 (x10) http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/97.htm?738

Pump Relay Switch Kit - $17.25 http://www.swiftnets.com/store/product_details.asp?ProdID=42

4oz Water Wetter - $3.50 http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/9/137.htm?738

8 Tincoated BGA Ramsinks - $24.99 http://heatsinkfactory.com/cgi-bin/HFAstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=VC-010

Panaflo 120mm L1A - $17.49 http://heatsinkfactory.com/cgi-bin/HFAstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=CF-023

120mm Fanguard - $2.50

1/2" F&B Kit - $27 http://www.swiftnets.com/store/product_details.asp?ProdID=165

===========================================

If I am missing any, any part or adapter or anything tiny at all, please tell me. I don't want to custom make my own shroud either or modify a car heatercore.

thanks

[UnLoadeD]

Swiftech MCW50 $38.95 http://coolbreez.com/merchant/merch...duct_Code=SMVWB

and

1/2" F&B Kit - $27 http://www.swiftnets.com/store/prod....asp?ProdID=165

Are both made for 1/2"
OD tubing, everything else is 1/2" ID. You can get connectors/adaptors so it would work, but they would be pretty restrictive (3/8" ID) compared to the rest of your system. So I would look for different block and make your T outta true 1/2" ID fittings. everything else looks good though.

peace.
unloaded

edit: I don't know how tight your budget is, but rather than Tygon tubing, I'd get the ClearFlex for almost 1/2 the price:
http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/162.htm?653

[Node]

Back to square one (confusion). I dont know what OD or ID mean, augh.

[The Spyder]

OD= outer dimention
ID= inner dimention

[UnLoadeD]

Originally posted by Node
Back to square one (confusion). I dont know what OD or ID mean, augh.

OD= Outside Diameter
ID= Inside Diameter

For example thinwalled 3/8" ID tubing will have 3/8" hole in it, the wall of tubing will be 1/16" thick, so the OD of the tubing will be 1/2".

The Tygon tubing you are looking at is thickwalled, it has 1/2" hole in it and 1/8" wall, making the OD= 3/4" and this wont fit in the swiftech fittings.

[Node]

Oh, I get it, thanks. What can I replace them with?

[UnLoadeD]

Well most things have barbs, so when they say they are 1/2" fittings, it means they will fit inside 1/2" ID tubing. Swiftech and innovatech dont use barbs, they use fittings where the tubing slips inside of them, so you need smaller tubing.

You can use this fitting (http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/88.htm?653) to make your T. You will also need something to plug the end. You could get something at a hardware store to plug it.

Looks like this block (http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/18/81.htm?653) would be good, but seems they don't have any in. Some thing similar would be fine, just make sure there are 1/2" fittings and its hi flow.

Just look around and if ya see something ya like, post it here, and we'll tell ya if it will work for ya.

peace.
unloaded

[Giblet Plus!]

cathar's coming out with a micro channel gpu block soon - might be worth the wait. :)

[Node]

That sounds like a possible upgrade later. Cathar makes some quality stuff, but I think spending twice the money for the video card block will have diminishing returns.

1) How is this for a GPU waterblock? http://www.dangerden.com/mall/chipset.asp

2) As for the F&B kit..filling and bleeding sounds like the most important part of settings everything up. I read the DIY thread, but is there is a more detailed explanation on how to get filling and bleeding done perfectly? I don't understand how that T will do it.

Thanks.

[dagamore]

Originally posted by UnLoadeD

The Tygon tubing you are looking at is thickwalled, it has 1/2" hole in it and 1/8" wall, making the OD= 3/4" and this wont fit in the swiftech fittings.

i thought that 1/2" + 1/8" = 5/8" not 3/4" inch, dont you need to add 2/8" or 1/4" to 1/2" to get 3/4"?

[UnLoadeD]

Originally posted by dagamore


i thought that 1/2" + 1/8" = 5/8" not 3/4" inch, dont you need to add 2/8" or 1/4" to 1/2" to get 3/4"?

well if you look at a cross section of the tubing you will see 1/8" wall on both sides of the hole so 1/8+1/2+1/8=3/4.

peace.
unloaded

[dagamore]

Originally posted by UnLoadeD


well if you look at a cross section of the tubing you will see 1/8" wall on both sides of the hole so 1/8+1/2+1/8=3/4.

peace.
unloaded

duuuhhh, ok ok, i am a tard, never mind :)

[FIZZ3]

I just noticed you listed only 1 foot of tubing, that seems a little on the short side to me. Also, I think you'll need a Y-piece for Cathar's block.

A fine choice of parts otherwise!

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by FIZZ3
I just noticed you listed only 1 foot of tubing, that seems a little on the short side to me. Also, I think you'll need a Y-piece for Cathar's block.

A fine choice of parts otherwise!
He said 1 ft. x 10:D Cathar's block comes with a "Y" too...

[FIZZ3]

Originally posted by nikhsub1

He said 1 ft. x 10:D Cathar's block comes with a "Y" too...

Ok lol that post of mine was really helpful. =D

[Node]

Originally posted by Node
That sounds like a possible upgrade later. Cathar makes some quality stuff, but I think spending twice the money for the video card block will have diminishing returns.

1) How is this for a GPU waterblock? http://www.dangerden.com/mall/chipset.asp

2) As for the F&B kit..filling and bleeding sounds like the most important part of settings everything up. I read the DIY thread, but is there is a more detailed explanation on how to get filling and bleeding done perfectly? I don't understand how that T will do it.

Thanks.

I'd like to replace question #2 with another question: I won't need to worry about filling and bleeding if I had a bay-res reservoir? http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/167.htm?16

right? I have a free slot for one of these. Would temperatures suffer, or would it be okay to have?

[FIZZ3]

Originally posted by Node


I'd like to replace question #2 with another question: I won't need to worry about filling and bleeding if I had a bay-res reservoir? http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/20/167.htm?16

right? I have a free slot for one of these. Would temperatures suffer, or would it be okay to have?

It's no rocket science to use a simple T-piece for a fill/bleed line. You just add that T to your tubing loop somewhere and connect a piece of tubing to it with a cap on top. This tube can then be used to fill the system with water and bleed the air out.
In any case, that bay resevoir would serve the same purpose. A resevoir will not hinder performance in itself- the extra water even acts as a beneficial buffer, but the extra tubing needed may cause some drop in flow rate.