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For starter Water Cooling (best) Setup Info

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EluSiOn

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Location
SC, USA
This question has been asked 1 million times. Now this the conclusion and I am assuming the follow list should be valid until Feb 2003.

1/2" barb for all fittings.

  • Cathar made White Water CPU Block
  • Eheim 1250 inline Pump
  • Heater Core from D-tek custom
  • Two shrouds from D-Tek custom or DodgeViper or use Glad Tupperware to make your own
  • Two 120mm fans
  • 10 ft Clearflex
  • One Y Fitting
  • One T Fitting and cap or a Resevior
  • Water Wetter or anykind of radiator protector prevent the battery effect
  • 15 Automotive steel hose clamps
  • UV dye, optional for cool looking only
  • UV light, optional for cool looking only

Here to get water cooling parts

www.dangerden.com

becooling.safeshopper.com

www.dtekcustoms.com

PM DodgeViper for Custom Shroud
PM Cathar for White Water CPU Block

Alternative to Cathar's WW are Dangerdan's MAZE3 Cu Top or Dtekcustoms' TC4 with ALU top.

Alternative to Eheim 1250 Pump are Via AQUA 1300 or MaxiJet 1200. Iwaki MDRLT 20 is better but pricy tag US$180.

Alternative to Heater Core are just Heater Core, because nothing now works better than heater core (Pro core just painted nicely).

Alternative to Water Wetter are Purple Ice, or Super Protector can be found in your local auto parts store.

Also looking into the Cooling Parts in the Classified, for cheaper deal too. JFettig's S-type is equivalent to a MAZE3
 
I thought it was interesting but then again I haven't actually started water cooling....
 
For Low Cost Good Setup

For Low Cost Good Setup

Aluminum Topped TC-4 Waterblock -- Barbs : 1/2" Top Color : black $ 47.00
Delta High Performance 120mm Fan x2 $ 28.00
Cooler Core (Unpainted) -- Hose Barbs : 1/2" $ 32.00
Via-Aqua 370GPH pump -- Barbs : 1/2" $ 23.00
T-Fitting -- Size : 1/2" $ 1.65
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total w/o shipping: $ 131.65

Glad Tupperware x2 as shrouds: $10
Super Protector: $5 <--- local auto store
Steel Hose Clamps x15 : US$ 7.50

Total budge around US$ 180

If you still want to go cheaper, then just order one 120mm Fan or looking for for used parts in classified section

The DIY shroud thread : Low-cost Chevette heater core fan shroud for those who failed shop class
 
What's the surge protector for? Is it just for the pump or if you don't have one of those multi plug ones?

EDIT: Nevermind, I read it wrong I guess :D
 
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My total will be a little less Im thinking . Of course I gotta add up probably 50$ worth of reciepts to hardware stores and 12$ for a leaky radiator.


~$30 for radiator and pump
~$30 for waterblock
~$20 for a bunch of tubing and such

I probably totaled around 150$ Everything came off forums except shroud (im making) mounting hardware (bought at hardware store) tools (torch, some solder and flux, an rtx which was a gift) and waterwetter and distilled water (still have to buy) If you don't count the torch against my total, I can probably say I spent about $135 or so. and it would be 15$ less but I trusted ebay (12 for rad, 3$ at pyles for rad leakplugger that didnt work).

I MIGHT spend another 10-20$ or so on a copper/brass rad (junkyard) after a month or two, cause the idea of corrosion scares the hell out of me. (The radiator is to be mounted directly above my motherboard... so if it leaks, pretty much everything will fry.)
 
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very nicely done, This should almost be added to neomoses sticky thread
 
its not the iwaki md20rlt is the RZT thats recommended for the WW block. you should list deepseagallery.com as a vendor.
 
mr_kow said:
its not the iwaki md20rlt is the RZT thats recommended for the WW block. you should list deepseagallery.com as a vendor.

I actually recommend an Eheim 1048 (or equivalent head/flow) or better pump for use with the White Water.
 
ya i didnt really mean recommended, sorry
Alternative to Eheim 1250 Pump are Via AQUA 1300 or MaxiJet 1200. Iwaki MDRLT 20 is better but pricy tag US$180.

i was trying to say that the rzt is a better alternative than the rlt
 
ok, i've never got this, people always say 1/2" all around, does that mean 1/2" ID, or OD???? Say i ordered a block from some place that had both options, would that mean ID or OD????
 
TyRex said:
ok, i've never got this, people always say 1/2" all around, does that mean 1/2" ID, or OD???? Say i ordered a block from some place that had both options, would that mean ID or OD????

I know! I'm off topic. But to answer your question TyRex. Tubing is measured by I.D. (i.e.: 1/2" x 7/8" = 1/2" tube with a thick wall).

Barbs are measured by O.D. to match the I.D. of the tubing.

Hope this helps.
 
Elusion, any reason you recommend the Aluminum topped TC-4 as opposed to the Poly Topped TC-4?
 
poly tops tend to crack.... few has problem with alu top or copper top but there are horrible stories about cracked poly tops
 
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