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New waterblock - Comments?

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GTA

Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2002
Location
Playing Counterstrike someplace...
Well, heres a pic of the inside, made with much help from G33k, also of these forums.

Now has a top, an inlet over the core, and is in need of a serious cleanup.

Basically, a pinfin block ala Hoot, but with a different style of waterchannel, hopfully to create more turbulence.

No temps yet, will do mounting holes tommorow.

What do you reckon, good? bad? or just ugly ;)

Block_Insides.jpg
 
Looks good but REALLY restrictive... Test it and see, I would 'think' you'd be better off shortening the pins a bit.
 
Neat concept!

Before you solder on the lid, take a pair of fine, sharp, pointy dikes and nip just a little bit off the tops of the pins in the downblast circle to give them a sharper point. Not much, just enough to make a slanted chisel point on them. That way, instead of the water striking those blunt flat tips and splaying, it will slice easier and slide down to the baseplate with a little less resistance. If you look closely at my pin block, that's what I did. every little bit helps.

Hoot
 
Cheers, and yes, I know its really restrictive, but as its going to be used with an Eheim 1260 ( 2000 L/h, 3m head ) that shouldn't be an issue.

Hoot : The tops are already pointy, although you can't see from that view. They were cut with some tinsnips, and so came out pointy by accident really. The tips ended up as inverted V-shapes with about a 70 degree angle.

Oh, also, pins are 10mm high each.

And total cost was £6, or less than $5 :)
 
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Nice. I'd put money down that that's another great performing waterblock. Follow Hoot's advice; he really knows his stuff.
 
Perhaps you might also cut down or even eliminate the pins in the outer channel to minimize flow restriction. If they are outside of approx. 20mm of center they aren't helping with the heat dissipation.

Bob
 
hmmm utabintarbo may have a mild point, but if i were just going to believe that i would need some references or something on where you pulled the 20mm from, i would think the heat would most likely dissipate further than that.

nice looking block though... err, well, not really nice looking yet, but nice execution of design. :D good luck finishing. :)
 
uhmmmm elite thats copper and copper is a non phosphorus metal which means it doesnt rust. but anyway that looks like the copper over heated from the torch if thats what he used. uhh yah clean it up may i suggest a vinegar and water bath?
or even acid then maybe pipe cleaners to give it quite i fine shine..

haha i made a nice liitle rhyme...
 
Well, Looks a lot better now I think you'll agree :) fitted the top, filed it down, and ran some 400 grit over the whole thing.

It wasn't rust, its just when you solder, the copper oxidises very fast. The pic above was taken pretty much right after it was finished cooling down after the final torching :)

Will drill some mounting holes and test it once i've finished cleaning it up, I reckon i'll paint it black ;)

pinc1.jpg
pinc2.jpg
pinc3.jpg
 
Paint it black? Wouldn't that cut down on the cooling? Probably not enough to be noticed, but black does absorb heat pretty well.....
 
wow! thats a really nice waterblock! as others have said, restrictive, but not too bad,
the paint wouldnt hirt anything, just dont paint the bottom and its fine, but I wouldnt, get some brasso and polish it! it holds polish really well
 
if i new how to write a "whistle" i would, that looks pretty good. with 4mm thick copper, will there be any problem with the base arching with the pressure of the hold down screws? errr, then again, i guess it wouldnt arch in the middle with all the stuff soldered to it, nevermind... i just got out of class, i started at 9 this morning, its now ten and i only had two hour breaks... my brain is fried, ignore about 100% of this. well done. :)
 
Yeah, I know what he said but he's wrong. I gave him that plate and it really is 2mm thick - I have another two here in front of me ;)
 
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