• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Does the AbitTH711 mobo Undervolt?

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Rudski

Member
Joined
May 13, 2002
It seems every time i load Winbond it reads the Vcore @ around 0.15 volts less then what is set in BIOS.
Here is what I've seen happen:


Default (1.5) Winbond reads it @ 1.35
1.6 volts Winbond reads it @ 1.45
1.65 volts Winbond reads it @ 1.5


I haven't even pushed it past 1.65 volts so this is all i can test.

Now my question is, Does Winbond just misread the Vcore and should i trust the settings in Bios?
Because a friend told me that the Abit boards all undervolt and thats why im getting these readings.

Has anyone else had these problems.

Plus another thing IF i overclock to 2.7Ghz and then stress test my PC or play a new game with nice graphics I seem to loose my USB connections to my mobo.

At the back of my motherboard and all Abit Th711 motherboards sit 3 USB connections. IF i use the top connection after a few minutes my PC thinks that this one port has been unplugged.
It seems to only occure when i've overclocked more then 133Mhz.
Has anyone had this problem?

I have the latest Bios from the abit-usa site, I would install Mr.Naturals Bios but i honestly haven't had a problem with this BIOS till now.

PLus what does the PCI latancy timing do? I've got it set to 32 but theres heaps of settings :p so i has wondering what they did also.

Thanks for any help in advance

:)
 
It seems every time i load Winbond it reads the Vcore @ around 0.15 volts less then what is set in BIOS.
Here is what I've seen happen:


Default (1.5) Winbond reads it @ 1.35
1.6 volts Winbond reads it @ 1.45
1.65 volts Winbond reads it @ 1.5


I haven't even pushed it past 1.65 volts so this is all i can test.

Now my question is, Does Winbond just misread the Vcore and should i trust the settings in Bios?
Because a friend told me that the Abit boards all undervolt and thats why im getting these readings.

Has anyone else had these problems.

Your friend is correct. The board seriously undervolts. There seem to be two types of the TH7-II. One that undervolts very bad (like the one you and I have), and one that undervolts somewhat less. If you haven't done the Vid Pin mod this may hurt your ability to overclock (as you will never get to the max "safe" voltage of 1.7V vfor the P4.) You can also see the voltages in the PC health section in BIOS. One more thing: a bad PSU can also cause undervolting. Be sure you have enough juice to keep your system going

Plus another thing IF i overclock to 2.7Ghz and then stress test my PC or play a new game with nice graphics I seem to loose my USB connections to my mobo.

At the back of my motherboard and all Abit Th711 motherboards sit 3 USB connections. IF i use the top connection after a few minutes my PC thinks that this one port has been unplugged.
It seems to only occure when i've overclocked more then 133Mhz.
Has anyone had this problem?

USB ports do not always take nicely to overclocking.


I have the latest Bios from the abit-usa site, I would install Mr.Naturals Bios but i honestly haven't had a problem with this BIOS till now.

If it ain't broke then don't fix it IMHO :)


PLus what does the PCI latancy timing do? I've got it set to 32 but theres heaps of settings :p so i has wondering what they did also.

Ok, this is a technical dicussion of PCI latency timing taken from http://www.reric.net/linux/pci_latency.html

"PCI latency timers are a mechanism for PCI bus-mastering devices to share the PCI bus fairly. "Fair" in this case means that devices won't use such a large portion of the available PCI bus bandwidth that other devices aren't able to get needed work done.

How this works is that each PCI device that can operate in bus-master mode is required to implement a timer, called the Latency Timer, that limits the time that device can hold the PCI bus. The timer starts when the device gains bus ownership, and counts down at the rate of the PCI clock. When the counter reaches zero, the device is required to release the bus. If no other devices are waiting for bus ownership, it may simply grab the bus again and transfer more data.

If the latency timer is set too low, PCI devices will interrupt their transfers unnecessarily often, hurting performance. If it's set too high, devices that require frequent bus access may overflow their buffers, losing data.

So in theory there's a compromise that can be reached somewhere in between, where all devices can get good performance plus a reasonable guarantee that they will get bus access on a timely basis.

Here's my best impression of the various ways you can handle the timers:

The Bad Way: Don't set them at all (in all cases I've looked at this results in a setting of zero).

The Better Way: just pick a number (I use 48 in my code) and set all devices and bridges to that.

The Best Way, in theory, though I doubt anybody does it:

For each card, read the MIN_GNT and MAX_LAT values, and calculate the following:

latency_multiplier = (8 for 33MHz) (this is the number of PCI clocks in one- quarter microsecond.)
min_grant_clocks= latency_multiplier * min_gnt
max_latency_clocks= latency_multiplier * max_lat
Then, calculate the desired latency timer values for each device such that:

each card's latency timer should be greater than that card's min_grant_clocks.
each card's latency timer should be set as high as possible. This is because the latency timer will truncate pci busmaster cycles when it expires, so a too-low setting will hurt performance.
all latency timers should be set low enough that if boards A, B, and C all start doing maximum length transfers, board D will still get the bus before max_latency_clocks has elapsed. So,
A.latency_timer + B.latency_timer + C.latency_timer < D.max_latency_clocks
Of course, the device manufacturer might have included themselves in the calculation, and in that case the requirement would be:
A.latency_timer + B.latency_timer + C.latency_timer + D.latency_timer < D.max_latency_clocks
which is easier to calculate anyway, since A+B+C+D could simply be called system_max_latency. If it's greater than any card's max_latency_clocks, you might have trouble.
Whew.

Needless to say, factory BIOSes are all over the board on this, and I suspect that most simply choose the "better" option (fixed values).

In truth, rule number 1 seems to get violated all the time without any ill effects. Since everybody else ignores rule #1 and I doubt anybody even tries to satisfy rule #3, the "better" option seems like an acceptable compromise.
" end of explanation on that site.

I myself have jiggled around somewhat with the timings, but it didn't do that much for my system. I decided to leave it at default in the end.


Thanks for any help in advance

:)

I hope it was a bit helpful ;)
 
Jirnsum thank you very much that was extremely helpfull.

So u recommend the Vcore mod? HOw much more overclocking could i get? @ 2.8ghz i boot but it seems that windows then can't find the Ntloader. I think its because my Hdd's can't be overclocked past 140FSB.
I own 2x80 gig Seagate barracuda 7200 drives.
Can u recommend a Hdd that handles high FSB's?

Thanks once again.
BTW how good is that Prometeia cooling system? Worth every cent?
 
I think you are using a P4 2.0a. Is this correct? I think you already have quite a nice overclock there. Mine will only go to 2.7Gig. However, have you tested for stability at 133 FSB? Are you sure it is completely stable? Try http://home.istar.ca/~lyster/pi/super_pi.zip superpi. See if calculations go correcltly at the speed you have set. Only when you are sure the undervolting hurts your overclocking is it worth considering the Vid Pin Mod.

The problem you have need not be due your HDD (in fact I think they are not). (Be sure to have your PCI/AGP clock locked though). I think they are due to your mem or chip. Therefore I suggest testing for stability using superpi at 133FSB. If it is stable go up a notch and test again. This way you will be able to tell when you are near the limit before getting NTDETECT problems. This can save you a lot of hassle, as NTDETECT problems might even go so far as to corrupt the data on your HD.

About Prometeia: love it :) Also a good investment for the future as new sets will become available making the system compatible with new processors. The case is bad however. I intend to replace it with a nice Lian-Li shortly :D
 
Yes it a P4 2.0A.

I've been using Prime95 and HotCPU to test the system.
I will leave your program one all night to test if she's stable.

Regarding speeds I get it too run with these settings

2.4 Vcore 1.55
2.6 Vcore 1.6* - Boots with lower voltage (1.575 i think) but doesn't pass all HotCPU tests after a couple of hours.
2.7 Vcore 1.65 *not yet tested
2.8 Vcore 1.7 but Ntdetect failed :(

I thing i need to say is its real weird when this CPU was new it couldn't get up to these speeds. I can notice the cooling really working but yet im sorta scared because I'd hate to overclock it too much and then it die.
Plus I live in australia and temperatures (ambient) are fairly high, around 28c most days but sometimes it gets to 30 degress so I have to underclock it. Most of the time it runs @ 2.4 or 2.5 but at night it gets overclocked more so i can get more FPS in quake3 :p
 
ambient temp in room (right now 25c)

CPU idle 43.5 Vcore 1.46(winbonb readout)
Speed 2.611Mhz


thats my idle temps

Guessing I'd say if i were to stress test it right now i'd say it would get to around 53 (guessing)
 
lol @ my sick 2.6mhz overclock. ROFL

I never ever get over 55 degress and if it does it only because the room temps are high.
It seems to me that ambient temps play a big role in cooling my system,

BTW i've got 3x 120mm sunon fans air around into it.
Then i've got the Zalman HS and put a 120mm Sunon on it, then i bought another Zalman fan arm and attached another fan to the side and use it to cool my RDRAM.

YOu said earlier that my PSU could have something to do with my Overclock. If i've also got 4 IDE devices do u think maybe my 400w PSU is outta power. Plus I've got 2 80mm fans with blue lights in them and also a Neon light :p
 
Last edited:
hahah, quite an overclock indeed (although my 286 once ran at speeds like that :p)

Sounds like you have good cooling and your temps don't get very high. Once again: it is quite nice for a 2.0a :)

As long as your 12 and 5V lines are stable you can assume that the PSU is not to blame ;)
 
Jan its 11pm here in goin to bed, in around 12 hours ill tell post the results of the SuperPi program.

BTw thanks very much.
 
Yep I've never heard Winbond error or beep with 12 and 5V problems.
And i too had a 286 that ran @ 8Mhz and in DOS 3 u typed in "turbo" and it overclocked to 10Mhz :p
 
Rudski said:
Jan its 11pm here in goin to bed, in around 12 hours ill tell post the results of the SuperPi program.

U can tell im tired because that made no sense what so ever:D
 
Well just to let u know I ran the test all night and it didn't come up with one error (SuperPi).
THat was @ 2.6Ghz im now going to check that happens if i run it @ 2.7ghz.

ALso the max temp it reached was 49.5 :p
 
I passed all SuperPi tests @ 2.7Ghz. with 1.625 volts but the real Vcore is only 1.46volts so I think if i Do a pin mod then ill be able to get 3ghz
 
Back