Several ideas for WBs.. Help me choose!!

G33k · Jan 15, 2003

H'okay, I've got a shed load of copper nails carefully cut up and ready to be positioned :

[Click the image to enlarge]

I've got three designs in mind and Im not sure which to go for :

Apologies for my paint skillz

What d'you guys reckon?

I.M.O.G. · Jan 15, 2003

i reckon i would like to see someone do flat pins instead of the round ones - better surface area to volume ratio, they would cool off better, and staggered at different angles i would assume they would create turbulence all the same.

i'd also like to see someone do pin fins of any sort concentrated over and around the die area more, and leave the outside of the inner chamber a little less restrictive.

if you want to wait a bit someone just finished the number 1 block in another thread and you can wait to see how it performs for him. my guts tell me they like that one the best, to answer your question.

G33k · Jan 15, 2003

I.M.O.G. said:
i'd also like to see someone do pin fins of any sort concentrated over and around the die area more, and leave the outside of the inner chamber a little less restrictive.

Something like this maybe (available are your local spode) :

I'd be tempted to try making all those pins square purely to add some more turbulence. TBH though, I don't think the results would justify me spending hours squashing them into squares

I.M.O.G. · Jan 15, 2003

ya something like that, i agree on the hassle... thats part of the reason i would like to see someone (read "someone else"

) do it.

Hoot · Jan 15, 2003

What concerns me is the process of soldering the pins to the copper plate. That solder is gonna run and puddle eventually and you wind up with a less-conductive-than-copper barrier both between the pins and the plate as well as on top of the plate in the water downblast area. I realize you don't have many alternative bonding choices.

Hoot

grim · Jan 15, 2003

2 and 3 will have dead spots because the water will take the easiest path

G33k · Jan 16, 2003

Hoot said:
What concerns me is the process of soldering the pins to the copper plate...

Yeah, I must admit the same though had crossed my mind, but I think you'd be suprised as to what can be achieved. When I was soldering GTA's most recent block together, we were able to stick the pins to the base and none of the sides of the pins had any solder on. It all stayed nice and neat on the base of the block (under the pins).

Is silver solder difficult to use? I've only ever tried regular plumbers / elctricians solder. Also, any idea where I might grab some from (in the UK)? At least that way the solder would be a bit less of a restriction (from a conducting point of view)...

G33k · Jan 16, 2003

My only real concern with the first design is the possible dead area in the center :

Molybdym · Jan 16, 2003

Hoot made a block like design one, here:

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80618

It's really nice too, good luck on your's

Hoot · Jan 16, 2003

G33k said:
Yeah, I must admit the same though had crossed my mind, but I think you'd be suprised as to what can be achieved. When I was soldering GTA's most recent block together, we were able to stick the pins to the base and none of the sides of the pins had any solder on. It all stayed nice and neat on the base of the block (under the pins).

Is silver solder difficult to use? I've only ever tried regular plumbers / elctricians solder. Also, any idea where I might grab some from (in the UK)? At least that way the solder would be a bit less of a restriction (from a conducting point of view)...

I have used Silver Solder of the type 56%Ag/23%Cu/17%Zn/3% with the flux already in it. Its behavior is a lot different than your typical soft solder. Primarily, it needs a lot more heat, like 1200-1300F versus 500-600F for soft solders. I use a swirl flame MAP gas torch and it just barely does the job on copper stock like what a baseplate would be comprised of. Oxy-Acetylene is much easier, but you have to use it carefully so as not to overheat your materials. Once you master the technique on a piece of scrap stock, it produces a very strong joint and considering the metals it is comprised of, a highly electrically and thermally conductive one to boot. I mainly use silver soldering in constructing lightning suppression systems, where high conductivity and high melting temperatures are crucial.

Hoot

G33k · Jan 16, 2003

LOL, I had a feeling it was going to be a little trickier. I somehow doubt my £10 mini blowtorch from B&Q is going to get up to those kinda temperatures! I guess I'll have to settle for regular plumbers schtuff...

G33k · Jan 16, 2003

Okay, been thinking about the previous designs... what about these two modifications :

slater3333uk · Jan 16, 2003

your best bet for silver solder is oxy-acetaline torch

u must know someone with one think! think! lol

grim · Jan 16, 2003

3a is still going to have very little flow near those edges furthest from the middle divider

Several ideas for WBs.. Help me choose!!

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