Micro pin water block

Volenti · Jan 18, 2003

The copper base is 50mm x 80mm x 6mm, I milled the copper around the center "island" to a depth of 4mm (leaving a 2mm base) the center was then sliced up with a mitre saw on a modified jig, leaving square pins and channels ~1.1mm thick/wide.

The 20mm thick perspex top has a 4.5mm section milled out of it to accomadate the center on the copper base, a center slot to distribute and accellerate the wter flow into the pins. (0.5mm to allow for gasket thickness and to ensure that the copper pins are firmly against top of the milled out section of the perspex when assembled)

The base is secured to the perspex with 8 m4x20 counter sunk SS bolts with threads tapped into the perspex.

lexx · Jan 18, 2003

interesting design, does the water enter through the middle barb and exit through the other 2 ?

GTA · Jan 18, 2003

Looks really nice, love to see some results.

All round thumbs up, great work.

FIZZ3 · Jan 18, 2003

The block looks very promising. As I see it, the pins will increase the effective surface area over a micro-fin block. Have you thought about how the water hits the center pins? I think I remember Hoot saying he 'tipped' his center pins to improve water flow.
Very interesting block anyway. Is there any chance to have it tested in the Big Roundup?

JFettig · Jan 18, 2003

hey man, thats pretty nice, Im explooring the idea myself, but quite a bit differently,

KaKa · Jan 18, 2003

I simply loved your idea of puting a high flow inlet right in the middle of the pins!!

we want results!

DodgeViper · Jan 18, 2003

KaKa said:
I simply loved your idea of puting a high flow inlet right in the middle of the pins!!

we want results!

This is not some idea that has just pop up. Many blocks on the market have a center feed with water exiting out the block from two locations. Looks mighty close to cathar design just with a added cross cut in the pin or fin area.

KaKa · Jan 18, 2003

DodgeViper said:
... just with a added cross cut in the pin or fin area.

thats what I meant when I said "high flow inlet"..

I know cathar's blocks. they r0x.. especially his last one..

Hoot · Jan 18, 2003

Just like your Mom's cooking, it appears a lot of love went into making that block. Nice job. Put a small bead of silicone rubber where the top mates with the bottom around the perimeter of the water chamber if you do not intend to use an o-ring.

Hoot

Since87 · Jan 19, 2003

Volenti,

Would you consider sending your block to BillA for testing?

I'd put $10 towards the testing fee, per the testing subsidy system described in this sticky.

I'd be very interested in seeing the results.

I know shipping would cost a lot more for you though...

[EG]~NaTz~ · Jan 19, 2003

volenti would u consider making those tops for people i mean the combo of u and neonmoses could kick out some wicked blocks. and u know i can take care of acrylic here. but i like that block a lot. looks like it will test well i may even help test a lil if u know i was on the waiting list for one dfepending on how it does ...

...very pretty...

Volenti · Jan 19, 2003

I've got it all sealed up and installed now, obligatory pic;

I'm getting a bit sick of the ghey temp readings these P4 mobo's give though, you seem to get down to a certain level and then hit a "wall" where nothing you do makes any difference, and you end up with no reported difference between idle and load and stupid **** like that.(which had happened with this block as well as my last "reference" block, and the previous mobo)

With that in mind I've ordered an nforce2 mobo and an XP 2100, seeing as the block was designed to fit that platform in the first place, we may actually get some meaningfull data out of it.

As for submitting it for testing, I have a little tweeking to do to the design before I can think about that, ironically, it isn't restrictive enough

, and I feel I can get some more usefull water volecity happening over the core area. If my experience with direct die cooling has taught me anything, it's the importance of good jet design and implimentation.

I'll update when the new platform arrives.

DodgeViper · Jan 19, 2003

Why not try making a few jets like these and give them a whirl.

JFettig · Jan 20, 2003

I would guess because they restrict more flow than they jet, maybe the bottom one would do alrite, but the other one would restrict massive amounts of flow... a strait no jet stream would be better

NeoMoses · Jan 20, 2003

I've made a block like that before, but it didn't perform all that well. I hope you have better luck with yours than I did with mine.

It does look very good. Nice job on the pins, and I love the LED in the plastic top!

Volenti · Jan 20, 2003

JFettig said:
I would guess because they restrict more flow than they jet, maybe the bottom one would do alrite, but the other one would restrict massive amounts of flow... a strait no jet stream would be better

actually when I was playing with the direct die cooling, the highly restrictive multiple jet cooled far more effectively than a single stream with 3x the flowrate.

And that's where I feel the fault in this design is, I'm not focusing the flow accurately(and forcefully) enough. I won't change anything untill I get the AMD system going though.

RonnieG · Jan 20, 2003

Looks great! If it performs well maybe I'll try this design...

...awaiting the results.......

DodgeViper · Jan 20, 2003

JFettig said:
I would guess because they restrict more flow than they jet, maybe the bottom one would do alrite, but the other one would restrict massive amounts of flow... a strait no jet stream would be better

JFettig, you are wrong on your thinking. The top jet is the jet I am currently using in my system over a open barb. After a number of remounting the 7 hole jet top is out performing my open barb top.

JFettig · Jan 20, 2003

and you have tested the open barb? have yout tested a single 1/4inch diameter hole jet verses it?

DodgeViper · Jan 20, 2003

JFettig said:
and you have tested the open barb? have yout tested a single 1/4inch diameter hole jet verses it?

Jon, I had two tops made by NeoMoses. Both with three openings. The center barb on one has a 3/8" NPT thread that I use my 7 hole jet sprayer. The other has a 1/4" NPT thread that I used an open barb with roughly a 3/8" opening.

A quote from Cathar, which I know you have read.

High water velocity is just as important as simple high flow rates.

The nozzles will probably cut flow rates by one third but result in lower temperatures. If DV could be bothered, he'd find that as he widened the nozzles to allow more flow through that performance would drop off.

One of the most misunderstood points in water-cooling is the belief that volumetric flow rates are all important. Yes, they are important but only to the point that there must be sufficient water mass to absorb any heat without heating up excessively (a reason why I believe that the printer micro-jet cooling technology is headed too far down the velocity only path).

I believe that there's a "balance" point of velocity vs volumetric flow rates, and while high volumetric flow rates are better, it's possible to make a water block that performs better using just 0.1gpm, than a Maze 3 using 2gpm.

Micro pin water block

Member

Member

Member

Member

Hey! I showered! Senior

Registered

Member

Registered

Inactive Moderator

Member

Member

Member

Member

Hey! I showered! Senior

Member

Member

Member

Member

Hey! I showered! Senior

Member

Similar threads