Ponder this

[Hoot]

Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap
http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/tapview2.jpg

Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap
http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/tapopen.jpg

Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap
http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/tapburp.jpg

Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap
http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/core1.jpg

Pick placement, drill 3/8" hole, put some RTV or JBWeld on the threads and screw it it.

Hoot

[UnLoadeD]

Hey nice idea ya got there. Only thing I'd mention is about this:
"Pick placement, drill 3/8" hole, put some RTV or JBWeld on the threads and screw it it."

I moved the barbs on a heatercore before. I used threaded barbs JB Weld'd into the holes I drilled. The problem I had would be the same one your method would have. The bottom of the barb threads is lower than the top of the tank that it goes thru. This makes a very good airtrap, unfortunatly the air's trapped in the rad. Getting most of the air is very difficult and getting all of it out is impossible. It's kinda like those water cube puzzles, only you can't even see inside to chase the bubbles around. If the threads were only in far enough to be flush mounted on the inside it would work lots better, or if you attached a female threaded collar and then screwed the valve into it like DV has done on some of his core mods. Great idea with the valve tho, I'd looked at DV's bleeder and wondered about that myself. I figured he attached tubing with a valve or cap on the end.

peace.
unloaded

[SkiFletch]

well, its no real big deal if you think about it... if air traps in those big pieces, it wont affect the cooling ability of the system cause its not impeding any part of the system that is actually a heat exchanger

[Hoot]

Originally posted by UnLoadeD
Hey nice idea ya got there. Only thing I'd mention is about this:
"Pick placement, drill 3/8" hole, put some RTV or JBWeld on the threads and screw it it."

I moved the barbs on a heatercore before. I used threaded barbs JB Weld'd into the holes I drilled. The problem I had would be the same one your method would have. The bottom of the barb threads is lower than the top of the tank that it goes thru. This makes a very good airtrap, unfortunatly the air's trapped in the rad. Getting most of the air is very difficult and getting all of it out is impossible. It's kinda like those water cube puzzles, only you can't even see inside to chase the bubbles around. If the threads were only in far enough to be flush mounted on the inside it would work lots better, or if you attached a female threaded collar and then screwed the valve into it like DV has done on some of his core mods. Great idea with the valve tho, I'd looked at DV's bleeder and wondered about that myself. I figured he attached tubing with a valve or cap on the end.

peace.
unloaded

Oh. I thought about that issue. Unfortunately, you can not simply cut the threaded shank shorter due to how it works. On my radiator, I planned on just screwing the shank in a turn or two, then soldering it. I mentioned using a sealing adhesive for the benefit of those who do not like soldering.

Hoot

[Ct. Strangelove]

i am confused, can't you just use a wrench?

[NeoMoses]

That is the reason that I chose to put my barb on the side of the radiator rather than the top. Here's the thread. (http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?threadid=171911) It is very quick and easy to bleed most of the air from the system.

I've been looking around for inexpensive ball valves, but haven't found exactly what i'm looking for yet. Maybe I'll have to try out some of these barbs.

[Realgun]

My question for you is why do you need to have a valve there in the first place? The reason I ask is unless you move the system the water is not going to come out of that pipe you just put water in Correct?

[Hoot]

Originally posted by Ct. Strangelove
i am confused, can't you just use a wrench?

The concern was about insertion depth of the Tap causing air to be trapped as in the below scenario:

http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/airtrap.gif

That was why I emphasised not screwing it all the way into the radiator.

Hoot

[OTMOPO3OK]

Hoot, this is very easy to fix...
one thing u could do is just solder a piece of copper pipe right to the edge of the HC's wall (No valve of course...but no air either)
...OR
you could take the barb and cut the treaded side with saw perpendiculary to threads..another words make it like this

( )

cut it as deep as you need to screw it in...don't worry about leaks u gonna solder it anyway on the outside...or JBWeld...
The barb would not lose it's strenght(it only holds the tubing)
then when u need to bleed u just rotate the thing inside so the hole matches the openings and the air come out.

Of course the thing would not act as a valve anymore....
NO WAIT it would if u cut very thin cuts and close the valve by rotating the inside piece. U have to be prescise(speling?)...
So if u mark on the outside in which position the holes are alligned with the slit and which they don't, u could control if it's closed or open... this would make it a VALVE AND a good Bleeder.......

Update: if u can take the inner part out of course.....otherwise it will be very hard to saw:)
Good Luck


Update:
I just realized that the inner part is more like a cone rather than a cylinder...so if u cut the sides it would not act as a valve anymore...hmm...


Maybe u should solder a piece of pipe on top and screw the bard in there...

[I.M.O.G.]

Nice, I like the idea. I'm still pondering the "Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap...Im-Hoot-Tap" though. You are quite a character hoot. :beer:

[Mr.Guvernment]

or just make an addon so that one of the side is higher then the other - this way all the air drains into one top casing and then out from there, will that work? i am not pro on this, as it is all new to me, here is a cheap diagram!

http://200.12.238.21:6543/airrelease.gif

[OTMOPO3OK]

Mr.Guvernment the idea is nice but there is a problem the water level would not stay constant if it has room to flow it will belive me it will just fill this addon....so it makes no difference at all...
Nice try though....
Keep them coming

[OTMOPO3OK]

Update:
Hoot....
NOW if u make this addon not hollow but solid piece of something like acrylic....(copper is not worth the mess) u could drill the whole thru the whole block, screw the bard , make the matching hole in the core and glue or solder(if not acrylic) the block on top...this way ALL the air would get into the trap...hehe..

Very easy...

[Mr.Guvernment]

haha!

yes! did not think of that...lol i was thinking or hoping that the "level water" thingy theory what ever ma bobber would work...ahaha

k, that made no sense!

:D

perhaps some way to "pressurize that chamber? hehe or is that a little TOO high tech :)

so it takes out air but keeps the water level down - heck, your idea is easier.. :D

[JFettig]

very nice HOOT, I like the penny sanded down to disguise it idea over the hole;)
is that 1/4npt? if so, 7/16inch hole would work better. its the size hole you use to tap those.

and where did you get that contraption? it almost looks homemade?

[Hoot]

It's almost home-made. The valve is a common accessory on every car radiator though it's usually at the bottome of the radiator for draining it. Costs about $1.29. The barb was a left over from my early days using 3/8" tubing that I cut off from the threaded part, carefully camfered and soldered onto the valve.

In retrospect, it was a fun 15 minute project that for the most part is useless. IMHO, the best place for a burp/fill tube is up in the highest loop of the system, not down (typically) where the radiator sits. Certainly, you can burp out gross air pockets trapped in the two humps of the typical Chevetter core, but after that, it's fairly useless, even for adding water. Unless the tubing attached to it is as high as the highest point in the water path, the water will run out of the Hoot-Tap when you open it.

It's getting late in the winter and some times I just pursue something for the fun of it. After doings high-tech electronics for eight hours a day, it's fun to monkey around in the mechanical realm as a release.

Hoot

[Ct. Strangelove]

hot dam,i figured it out. thats pretty neat. good for aways adjusting systems. you don't that gpu block just remove the lines w/out probs.

[JFettig]

http://www.wc101.com/JFettig/jonsys.jpg

I filled and burped it......