View Full Version : Should I unlock my Duron?
Discharger
01-16-01, 11:55 AM
I just recently purchased a Gigabyte GA-7ZM micro-atx mobo and a Duron 700mhz processor with a Thermaltake Chromeorb Heatsink. I've been very happy with the performance increase so far (much better than my previous computer - a Celeron 466 FCPGA and an Aopen MX64 Apollo Pro 133 mobo w/slocket converter), but I know I can be getting more. Unfortunately for me, I didn't know about unlocking it before I picked it up, and I got the guys in my local computer store to mount it for me... :p
So basically, I'm stuck with it the way it is (the max I've been able to overclock it is 784mhz or some similar number), and at that point, the performance increase was negligable anyway. I've heard from a lot of places that Durons and Thunderbirds are not the most "solid" chips when removing the heatsinks/taking them off the socket they're installed in. Should I bother taking the heatsink off and unlocking the L1 bridges with a pencil, or will there be too much of a risk of breaking my chip?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
--Cameron Tucker, aka. Discharger
Tachyon
01-16-01, 12:06 PM
I don't understand the statement about not being stable after you've removed the HSF...but you do need to be careful that you don't chip or crush the core when you take the HSF off or put it on. As far as performance gain, trying is the only way to answer that :)
Discharger
01-16-01, 12:19 PM
Well, I remember some info (on Sharkyextreme to be specific) about the Durons/Tbirds being delicate and they were easy to crater if you removed the heatsink or removed them from the socket improperly. I can't find the info on their site anymore (I could have sworn I read it on either a T-bird review or a Duron review, but I can't find it). Anyways, past that topic, do you have any tips for how to do it? It's already on with thermal paste, do you think it'll be difficult to get it off w/o ruining the core and breaking the chip?
I don't have very much experience with this type of thing (which is ironic, because I'm A+ certified now, so I figure it's a good time to start :) , but here's what I figure I should do, in order (correct me if you see anything I'm doing wrong, or could do better).
#1. Unplug the heatsink power from the mainboard
#2. Remove the heatsink. I've heard that twisting it off is the best way. Is there any technique I could try that would reduce the risk of cratering the chip?
#3. Remove the processor itself. (is there any special way to do it, or does it just lift straight off the socket connector?)
#4. Link the L1 bridges with a #1 pencil (best type, according to an article I read here on overclockers.com).
#5. Re-apply thermal paste.
#6. Re-attach the heatsink.
#7. Re-connect the heatsink power to the mainboard.
#8. Overclock your unlocked Duron to your heart's desire!
Am I missing anything? Any suggestions? Thanks for all the help so far, btw :)
Tachyon
01-16-01, 12:34 PM
If you can take the board out of the case it will make life easier for you. The only Thermaltake product that I know of that has the twist-off clip is the Golden Orb. The Chrome Orb definately doesn't twist off so PLEASE don't try to do that. The best way to remove it is to press down on the bar at the top of the clip and use either a small flat screwdriver or a small pair of needlenose and gently pull the clip away from the cam box. If you see a little bit of plastic shavings from the cam box, don't worry...it's normal. This procedure is easiest if you have the board out of the case so you can really see what you are doing.
Don't expect too much performance fron the Chrome Orb when you overclock...they really aren't very good for that. I'd recommend you get a different (better) HSF before you up the vCore and increase your temps...just MHO :)
Tachyon
01-16-01, 12:38 PM
Oh yeah...removing the chip...once you have the Orb off, gently pull the lever away from the cam box (just a little) and you can raise the lever. Then pull the chip out of the socket and you're ready to do your bridge work :)
Discharger
01-16-01, 12:43 PM
Just the fact I could overclock is all I'm looking for. Do you have any idea how hot is too hot? Right now, my cpu temp is listed at about 34º in my bios (Running at 700mhz, nothing changed). If I unlock it, what is the max safe temperature you think I could leave it at? Some of my buds have their p3s running at about 46-50º, so I assume that's safe (non-oc'ed for the most part). Once again for all the help so far -- it's making my first major foray into overclocking just that much easier :)
Tachyon
01-16-01, 12:50 PM
I think that AMD says their chips are ok up to 60c (or is it 70c). You may get a variety of answers on what is a "safe" temp...but because of the inconsistencies between BIOS or Sandra or whatever reported temp and "truth" temp, I would recommend that you don't exceed 50c under load.
Good Luck....please post your results when you get it done!
Discharger
01-16-01, 02:42 PM
Something I noticed in another thread where the person had a GA-7ZV:
The board is multiplier locked? Is that correct? If so, is there any reason for me to attempt to unlock the Duron, when I've got a GA-7ZM?
Thanks :)
Tachyon
01-16-01, 02:48 PM
Sorry, I didn't pay attention to what board you have. According to the giga-byte website it looks like yours is FSB clockable only as well :(
Discharger
01-16-01, 03:00 PM
Is there any software I could get that would allow me to get at the voltage or multiplier settings that are usually handled automatically? If not, I'm happy with what I've got -- I just wanted to know how far I could push it :)
Tachyon
01-16-01, 03:06 PM
Take a look at the latest post here. Apparently you can open the L3, L4 and L6 bridges if your board has no clock multiplier.
Also, you can set the default voltage to 1.85v by connecting the L7 bridges, but if you can't adjust it, it will always run at 1.85v....in that case, you really ought to think about a different HSF.
Discharger
01-16-01, 03:11 PM
Hm... setting the voltage that high would probably pose a heating problem, wouldn't it? Do you have any recommendations on a good heatsink? I probably won't be able to get one for a few months or so, but it'd still be nice to know.
Following the info I won't be able to get a new cooling solution for a while, what do you suggest? I noticed a program for Gigabyte boards that is supposed to help in overclocking, but it looks like it's only good for messing with the fsb. Here's a link to a mobo review where the talk about it near halfway down the page:
http://www.hothardware.com/hh_files/Motherboards/GA-7ZM&Duron(2).htm
tell me what you think and if you have any suggestions about what I should do, let me know :)
I wouldn't like to mess around w/my chip any more than I have to, but I'll do it if that's the only choice ;)
Tachyon
01-16-01, 03:19 PM
Depending on how much you want to spend and all..I'd recommend the Alpha Heat Sink first or maybe a Globalwin (they are cheaper). Take a look at the "Another crazy idea" post...
Tachyon
01-16-01, 03:46 PM
I found the article and, as expected, the frequency is dependent on which L3, L4 and L6 bridges are open and which are closed. Take a look for yourself at : http://www4.tomshardware.com/cpu/00q3/000711/index.html
Discharger
01-16-01, 04:43 PM
Ok, I've decided to pick up the best Alpha cooler I can get my hands on, and once I've got the appropriate materials and done the appropriate research, I'm going to try and take my Duron 700 to 950. It'll probably take some time, but I'll post the results when it happens.
Tachyon
01-16-01, 04:51 PM
If the Orb fits, an Alpha PAL6035 should fit fine. Do you have a local place to get one?
Discharger
01-16-01, 04:55 PM
No, the local place I got my chromeorb from sells superorbs as well, but that's basically it. I'll probably have to order the alpha cooler from somewhere in the states (I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada). Actually, I'll post what my local place carries, and you can tell me what you think.
-- Fans and Adapters
ThermalTake SuperOrb HS w Fan SktA ..... $44
ThermalTake ChromeOrb HS w Fan SktA .... $24
Those are all the Socket A heatsinks they've got, so it's pretty much either the chromeorb (which I've got) or the superorb. I think I'll just mail-order an alpha when I've got the money :)
sleddog
01-16-01, 05:16 PM
Discharger (Jan 16, 2001 04:55 p.m.):
No, the local place I got my chromeorb from sells superorbs as well, but that's basically it. I'll probably have to order the alpha cooler from somewhere in the states (I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada).
Just a note from another Canadian :)
I bought my Alpha from http://www.2cooltek.com (in Florida) -- they got it to me here in eastern Canada quickly and with no fuss.
Tachyon
01-16-01, 05:27 PM
Discharger,
Send me an e-mail on the Alpha cooler :)
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