watter wetter or zerex, which additive is better?

well??

Better in terms of:

Corrosion Inhibiting

Thermal transfer

Color

Smell

What are you asking exactly?

well both are corrosion inhibiting, zerex has a stronger color but less odor, what about thermal transfer?

edit: can anyone here smell the watter wetter? some reviews say that it has a strong odor

yes id like to knwo the answer to this question too. anyone have a general view? many people like zerex, but then there are the WW lovers.

IMO, it probably wont be a big difference. other than i think zerex dyes the water a bit and WW smells (heard from reviews like you)

While you can smell Water Wetter, the bottle I purchased wasn't that bad. Had to hold my nose right up to it to smell. They may have corrected it, or maybe my nose isn't working too well, but it's not really an issue as the loops are closed.

Most will probably report better temps with Water/Water Wetter vs. Water/Zerex. The reason is simple: most people will use like 20%-50% Zerex, yet only a cap full or two of Water Wetter.

If corrosion and bacteria were not an issue, 100% distilled water would be ideal. Adding Water Wetter or Zerex buys you corrosion and bacteria protection at the expense of a minor drop in thermal properties. But, a corroded block will decrease your water flow and hinder it's cooling properties (and eventually get your computer all wet), so yes, Water Wetter and/or Zerex can definitely be a long term thermal benefit as well.

I personally use both. But If I could have only one, I'd use Water Wetter. For me, corrosion prevention is key, as not everything in my computer are the same metals.

The reason is simple: most people will use like 20%-50% Zerex

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Are you talking about Zerex Super Coolant? The recommended ratio is 5% not 20-50.

I've been running my wc system for several months now on plain old tap water, i know i could do with some additives, but most of the anti corrosion stuff decreases the SHC of the water and so lessens its cooling properties. Some1 sugested to me that profesional bikers use something that actually boosts the waters SHC by 30 % or so, anybody heard of this?

I use a rather large cooling tower rather than a radioator (works far better) thus have the problam that any things i do add to the water will soon evaporate away. Anybody else use this kinda setup and have any sugestions?

The tower holds approximatly a litre of water in the bottom when full, and other than that i have no other resovoir other than what is in the pipes etc, i have to top it up every day if i leave the system on 24/7, im going to make this automated soon. I cool the PSU, CPU, GPU and NB, soo the hdd too.

The tower is made from a piece of 4" diameter soil pipe about 1.3 metres long (i think), and a "t" join at the bottom. The bottom is sealed off and i have a small barb in the bottom which feeds to the pump. The outlet from the system into the top of the tower simply washes the water down the insides of the pipe and with a 80cm fan blowing into the t join at the bottom the water is cooled suficiently as to never go above ambient (unless very low on water).

The blocks on my system are all ali with the exception of a small copper one on the NB. My cpu (a XP2400+) is running at 2310 (210fsbx11) atm with vcore 1.65, in the bios the system temp is reported as 43C when idle. I am thinking of building/buying a better (coppeR) CPU block but for now am happy with this temp. Im more interested in the total silence of my system than an extra 50 or so OC.

My pump is of course up the loft with the tower out of ears reach, It is a 12volt Trailking caravan pump! all my hoise is 8mm ID. I am possibly looking to uprate my hose diamter and pump.

Anyways, any ideas on the coolant i should use?

P.S. some pics on my (not yet made) website.

North Bridge heatsink removed (A7N8X)

Cleaned nForce2 NB

the system on floor for foto

excuse the mess!!

:t

I could be wrong but I do not think it is a good idea to use a coolant additive if you are using an evaporativr cooling tower, because you will have harmful toxics being entered into the atmosphere where the tower is. I do not think that wouls be healthy to breathe.


Someone correct me if I am wrong.

purple power is also very good

3 Way Review Of Water Additives

I use Valvoline’s Zerex Racing Super Coolant based on that review.

Can I find Zerex at local pep boys or auto zones? I looked on their websites but were unable to find any..

I bought a small 4oz. bottle of Zerex from Danger Den for a couple bucks.

Just had a chat with bro who is a motor cylcle mechanic dude, and he says "putoline coolant" (putoline being the make) is what is used in most sports bikes. Be interesting to see if this will be suitable, its a better cooleant than water, is anti corrosive, and a funky colour too!, Its not an aditive to water, its an instead of.

putoline along with cpu or overclock in google comes up with no hits, so perhaps this has never been thought of before, let alone tried

FACTION95Si said:

I bought a small 4oz. bottle of Zerex from Danger Den for a couple bucks.

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i hate to wait for awhile and paying for all that shipping & handling for just 1 small ietm

I found water wetter to stain your tubes badly!

I read from a review that Zerx actually has better corrosion inhibiting.

I personally use 1/4 BMW coolant + ionized water for zero tubing discoloring! Temps are 1C higher with this fluid compared to waterwetter + distilled.

Well guess what, I just spoke to a friend of mine who's head mechanic for one of the local Toyota dealer and he doesn't like Zerex.
He said after a year or so the Zerex coolant will corrode. It's terrible.
Soooooo...I may be looking at Toyota Red coolant and use it instead.

I'd recommend flushing the system at the very least every 6 months, so one year isn't exactly a big deal.

"For them, Zerex Racing Super Coolant sounds ideal. It was developed for attack boats used by Navy Seals. They must operate in tropical waters too warm to give sufficient engine cooling when you add in the inefficiency of ethylene glycol. Super Coolant contains inhibitors only—special antifoaming agents and protection during boiling—Turcotte says, and it's compatible with aluminum, iron, and other materials common in older cars."

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http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=27&article_id=2264&page_number=2