How to leak test?

Just got my first water cooling system, so please bear with me and forgive me for being a noob. I'd like to leak test the setp before putting my expensive components in. Isn't there a way to jumper the main power supply connector to allow this?

Yep.

Short Pin 14 (PS-ON) to Ground (any Black pin).

if your confused as to what pin goes where....just start shorting pins (one at a time) and you'll eventualy hit the right ones, if i remember correctly there the odd colored ones...like gray, white or blue...something like that.

I'm guessing you got a Koolance case then? I was a bit surprised by the question as most pumps that are used in WC setups can be plugged in independently, providing a trouble-free leaktest setup.

No, I didn't get the Koolance, those seemed a little wimpy, although I didn't get a super hifi system either. Sort of a middle of the road setup to get me started. I went with the Q-Power Swiftech FS020-H20-C-W50, which is a complete liquid cooled case just to get my feet wet (so to speak).

Here are some reviews, including a couple from the front page of overclockers.com.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles544/

http://www.overclockers.com/articles542/

http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/cases/QPower_1.html

http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=Mzk1

http://www.ocaddiction.com/reviews/water/qpower/

batboy said:

No, I didn't get the Koolance, those seemed a little wimpy, although I didn't get a super hifi system either. Sort of a middle of the road setup to get me started. I went with the Q-Power Swiftech FS020-H20-C-W50, which is a complete liquid cooled case just to get my feet wet (so to speak).

Click to expand...

Yeah, the Swiftech is certainly a bit better than the Koolance.

I just thought of another ingenious way to leak-test your system, by the way: connect the PS to the needed components, which you lay on your desk, and then connect it to the pump inside the case.

The "Cases & Power Supplies" forum has all kinds of threads on how to jumper PSUs (hints at search button ).

When I leak test, I keep the fans off, and let the pump heat up the system, running over night. The hotter water will cause a slightly higher internal system pressure. This will force a leak anywhere theres a weakness, alowing you to fix before "going live". If the pump heat doesn't heat it up enough, I use alternate methods

Air compressor to the T-Lines works for me, all components in water. This guarentees all hose clamps are on tight enough (a missing hose clamp blows the tube right off) and that there are no pin-hole leaks in the tubing. Only do 15 - 30 PSI, as cores aren't meant for too high of preasure (found that one out the hardway!).

The air quick connects bolt right on to barbs, but they are 1/4" (and I run 1/2" ID), so I needed some adapters to go to 1/2"ID Barb. Looks a little strange (in a teflon tape sort of way), but it works remarkably well.

Fit all the components in the case, cut the tubing to size, take the components out (leaving hoses attatched), and dunk them in a big pail-o-water (that's been sitting for a while to get rid of pre-existing bubbles). Run the pressure test and tighten hose clamps as needed. After no bubles for a while and no drop in pressure on the guage, put back in case and fill thru the T-Line. Voila!

Thanks to all that replied. The instructions shows a way to jumper the relay which allows you to run the pump without booting the system. I know it's a slim chance, but if a leak developed and water got on the mobo when it wasn't powered up, there would be very little chance of damage since this is distilled water, right? Assuming it was a small leak and that it was thoroughly dried before booted again. I know there is a small amount of power going into the mobo even when it's off, because an LED stays lit.

That small amount of power is what allows things like "Wake on LAN" and "Wake on Ring" to function properly, which is why it is always a good idea to ensure the computer is completely turned off (say, by a power strip) before adding and removing cards, memory, and procs.

If you disconeect the ATX Power connector from the motherboard and short the relay, you should be able to leak test without problems.

Distilled water is a bit safer, but not fool-proof.


Just remembered another way I like to leak test is to hook the whole system up to the sink faucet, and leave the other end draining into the sink(have to have outlet or you'll blow the core). Then I turn on the faucet to full & watch the system.