What's up with this one?

[Mikko]

I've been running a Duron650 OC'd to 800 for two week, but then it suddenly refused to boot. I got no video. I've check memory and video card, so it must be either CPU or motherboard. Is it possible that the pencil work on L1 bridges has somehow gone bad?
Other possible reasons?

[kat]

reset the cmos theres two ways to do this some were on the mother board there will be the cmos discharge jumpers or you can remove the battery and replace it turn your system off for both unplug for the battery tick and discharge the atx ;D

[Mikko]

Thanks but I already did that, it was first thing to do actually. I'll check the L1 bridges tonight, if it won't work I'll return the CPU and motherboard to see which one is faulty. Fortunately the Duron650 was pretty cheap.


kat (Feb 09, 2001 05:30 a.m.):
reset the cmos theres two ways to do this some were on the mother board there will be the cmos discharge jumpers or you can remove the battery and replace it turn your system off for both unplug for the battery tick and discharge the atx ;D

[Rob Cork]

I'd be very surprised if your cpu or mobo suddenly just kicked its legs in the air and died. It could well be the L1s - a few people say they have to redo them every few weeks, guess it depends how much graphit/what sort of pencil you use. If your cpu was running hot that might cause the graphite to vaporise more easily, oxidising to C02.

[Mikko]

Ok, problem solved. I have the Soltek SL-75KV2 board and I had to change the position of JP17 jumper (not documented on manual) first to get system boot up at default frequency of 650 MHz.

Then I cleared the pencil work and did a brand new solder job. Yes, I used soldering iron - 15W Antex - with some soldering paste applied on L1 bridges. Using soldering paste which contains only little tin is the only way to solder the bridges. If you use regural soldering wire it's too difficult and maybe results as interconnections. Also the 'golden bridges' may be partially lost in the process of soldering, but there's still enough for the solder to stick with. Now I have the system running fine and never need to redo the pencil work again.

I don't recommend this solder work for everyone, only for experienced people or people who do things like SMD soldering for their work.

Happy soldering!

-Mikko

[proze]

you're a brave man soldering those tiny buggers!!

[g.nEUz]

had a similar problem, try redoing the pencil trick, might work, mine did


alex