Some Qs I had that I couldnt find in search

Ok, I've read up on this forum like woah cuz I hate those people who are like I am new, you have nothing better to do except help me so answer the question that was answered one post below me. (Ok, Im done venting)

On to the questions. I am going to get the following setup:

Dtek Blue Heater Core w/ 2 Dtek shrouds w/ 2 120mm 79 cfm 30 dB fans 1/2 OD ($46 + $15 x 2 + $12 X 2)
ClearFlex tubing, 1/2 ID ($15)
TC-4 Poly topped WB for P4 1/2 ($57)
DD Video Card WB for 9700 pro w/ RAMsinks and alumina epoxy ($76)
Arctic Ceramique ($4?)
Bay Res (didnt get)
Eheim 1250 ($68)
metal screw clamps (like $5?)
blue/blue UV dye and UV light ($14 for light $10 for dye)
I plan on lapping the water blocks and CPU (going to research while parts being shipped)
Zerex ($8?)
Shipping was like $25

Ive heard mixed opinions on Water Wetter/Zerex, etc. I am Thinking of getting Zerex, but I heard it can change the color of the water. With blue/blue UV dye will this make a difference? I am already slightly peeved b/c my motherboard has a red LED that changes my color scheme (silver/blue).

I am thinking of using Velcro to mount my radiator/shroud/fans to the bottom of my case.

My main question is about my actual setup. I want to go pump-->HC-->BayRes-->CPU-->VC-->pump. Is it ok to go to the reservoir before the CPU? On my BayRes I am thinking of getting one elbow and one straight barb so it will come from the bottom and run out to the CPU. Will this restrict flowrate too much or should I get two straight barbs and run the tubing a little longer to accommadate the change in direction?

Also, my computer is going to be lugged around somewhat often and I was wondering how safe this is and what kind of maintenance I would have to do to keep it from leaking when I lug it around.

EDIT: This is my first post in the WC forums =D

I use the Zerex and it changes the water color to pink. I use the Green UV dye and as soon as I put the dye in the water changed to green. So I'm assuming that if you put enough dye in (which won't be more than a few drops) your water color should be blue.

You want to have the flow come straight out of the heatercore to the block(s) for optimum cooling performance. If put the res inbetween them I really don't think your temps will be higher. Maybe a degree or two at the most.

I want a reservoir because I want to bleed the system, fill it easily, and I *sigh* dont want to do the research on the t-line and how to terminate it

EDIT: Where in the system should I put the t-line? Ive heard after pump is best, but my pump is going to be like 2-3 inches away from my HC.
I also haul around my computer quite a bit and I feel for some reason the res would be safer, and it would help bleeding the system quicker b/c when I move it bubbles will enter the system again.
Ive read so many of your posts DV, I cant believe I got a reply from you woohoo (lol, idolizing). My bro goes to U of A. (and he thinks DVs are the best cars ever... pshhhht, Ferraris =D)

Im sorry, I should be doin research on these Q's, but since ur here and u seem like ull help me out =D (thx so much), does the line have to be straight (parallel with the bottom of the case? or can it be curved?) where I install the t-line Im assuming I can pick up the (COPPER/BRASS) t-line at my local hardware store.

Home Depot sells nylon T-fittings and nylon hose barbs. The T-fitting can really go anywhere. I perfer that its not in between the core and the water block though.

I had always placed the T-fitting on the water returning to the pump.

How to terminate the T-fitting is you place 1/2" by 1/4 NPT hose barb on the end and use a cap with teflon tape

Once all air is out of the system and you have no LEAKS, what you have is a sealed looped system with no chance of air getting into the system as long as you keep water in the T-fitting above the the highest point where water flows.

Unless the Bayres is completely sealed, it's gonna leak with the pump-->HC-->BayRes-->CPU-->VC-->pump setup. Idealy the res sould be as close to the pump suction as possible.

Why is nylon better than copper/brass? Doesnt nylon corrode/crack/get brittle?

Also, Im going to have like 3 inches of space between my VC barb and my pump, and I dont know any other place to mount my pump. I can draw you a picture of what Im planning on (ive changed my plans like 3 times since Ive started) when I get home from work. Thanks so much for your help.

If you're going to have a reservoir, put the pump in it. It will raise the water by a degree or two, but it will ensure that the pump remains reliable.

I don't think he is going to be placing a Eheim 1250 pump in a res. and keep the system mobile.

Personally I would not place a res. in the system. Reason: it’s just another opportunity for something to go wrong. It’s another area for more fittings, hose's and a chance the seams to come apart and dump water into the tower.

I do not even use a T-fitting. On my custom core's I solder a fitting into the top of the core tank and run a hose to the top of the tower. I want to eliminate as many fittings as I can. Nylon fittings will not corrode/get brittle, or for that matter even crack. Nylon is tough stuff.

You should have a nice system. You’re starting out with great components throughout your entire system. If you should have any questions let me know as we both live in the same city. I live on the far eastside....

Ive seen some of your shrouds you build and I know ur quite shop savvy. I'm not Id rather not have to solder anything. Ill do some more research later today, but if I did get a res, would it affect my temps much? Im just guessing that it would have very little effect b/c the all the water in the res would eventually become room temperature and wouldn't heat the water up any more than if I went HC --> CPU WB. Please let me know if Im wrong.

NW of town, by the freeway.

Your correct that the water will balance out to room temps or slightly warmer. My concern is more with having additional fittings, clamps, hose's and you being mobile. Anytime you can remove fittings in the system your going to place less drag on the water-flow. Keep it simple and you will have a happier water-cooling experience.

I could place a fitting in the top of your core quickly and for free. I work in Oro Valley. Just let me know if your interested.... I hope you have been reading my above post. I have been going back and rewriting a few things and correcting a few statements I said.

Make sure to post some photos of your system once completed.

Hey man, how much is that entrie setup going to run you?

Almost $400

I added the prices to the parts list in my first post