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Cascade water-block design

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Cathar

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Thought I'd make a thread here on its own. Some of you are probably aware that I've been working on a new waterblock which I've nick-named the "Cascade". The design has already gone through a few months of research, and about a month's worth of tweaking actual materials, and it's getting pretty close to the final phase.

The block's principles are based on ideas drawn from myself, BigBen2K, Volenti, and jaydee116 (aka CustomCooledPC), and this is my vision on how the ideas can be brought to a physical reality.

The block works by water entering the middle barb into a manifold cavity that distributes the water flow out to the jet tube entrances. The jet tubes accelerate the water to around 4x the entrance velocity. Water travels down each jet tubes and is pushed directly down the middle of a "cup" (one for each tube) drilled into the copper base-plate. The jets impinge on the base-plate, creating a highly efficienct stagnation region of thermal transfer.

Now with jet impingement the further you get away from the middle the jet, the less the cooling effect. Other people have tried jet arrays, but the flow coming off from surrounding jets interferes with the efficiency of each jet, and while free jet arrays are more efficient than a single jet, they can be improved upon.

Enter the cup. The cups are very closely spaced together. They are wide enough to allow each jet's primary stagnation region to form. The cups are also jet wide enough that the water flowing off the main impingement jet strikes the cup walls at close to the same velocity as the jet stream itself. This creates a secondary impingement effect right at the base of the cup walls. This effect is occurring right where we want it, and it soaks up the heat that would otherwise attempt to go up the copper walls between the cups.

The jet tubes are submersed into each cup slightly. This shields the jet streams from the out-flow of surrounding jets, and helps to guide the water out of the cup without interfering too much with the jet stream coming down.

The optimal width of the cups is directly linked to the width of the jets, and the height of the jets above the base-plate is also very important, as is the thickness of the base-plate, and the proximity of each cup to each other.

The pictures below are of the Rev 2 version of the Cascade design, and you may see some small machining irregularities which will be corrected by refining the machining process.

The design packs 52 jet tubes into a very small area. I've included a USA "dime" and an Australian 5c piece in the pictures for an idea of scale.

All up I'm very proud of the design and am very pleased to see it come together as a physical reality.

c21.jpg


c22.jpg


c23.jpg


c24.jpg


c25.jpg
 
Very nice :clap:. And was it much harder to get 52 instead of 30 or so u had on the last one? lol...And ill bet for the next rev ur gonna shoot for 70 rite :D
 
Mikeonatrike said:
Very nice :clap:. And was it much harder to get 52 instead of 30 or so u had on the last one? lol...And ill bet for the next rev ur gonna shoot for 70 rite :D

The last one had 36. Where I'm at right now is approaching the machinable limits of the material. Already it's not as cleanly finished as the 36-hole version. With a few process revisions I'll get that cleaned up, but packing more into the same area isn't really feasible. The material is down to 0.2mm thick at the thinnest sections of the tube walls. So what I'll be doing is focussing on getting this one machining well.
 
Flame said:
wow that looks amazing. will that be better than the white water?

Let me get this one cleaned up properly before I get into posting results. The jet tubes are slightly clogged with plastic swarf restricting the block far more than it should be. The machinists have found a solution to this but I'm at home and will rebore the holes myself as soon as I pick up a new drill bit tomorrow.
 
Hey, glad ya started a thread over here too. I've been following your progress on this block, very exciting. I am confused by something though. You said- "The jet tubes are submersed into each cup slightly." After looking closely at the pics (c22,c24 & c26 in particular) I can't see how the ends of the jet tubes can be any closer than flush or even with the tops of the cups. I'm guessing the top of the cup plate is flat, and the bottom of the jet plate seems to be flat also. If the jets are a bit longer than the thickness of the rest of the plate, can you tell me how that was done. Also could ya post a pic of the jet plate from a side view? I'm assuming something similar to a fly cuter was used to face every thing but the center area, but am curious how the plexi was polished up again afterwards. One last part i'm curious about, you mentioned finding some plexi with better machinability, but you never said what it is.

I'm not trying to get at design/production secrets of your block. It's just that soon I'm gonna start attempting to make some blocks myself at work and tips I can get dealing with acrylic/polycard techniques and materials would be a big help. There's quite a bit of info to be had dealing with the copper side, but I'd like to hear as much as I can about what you've got going.

peace.
unloaded
 
Cathar said:


Let me get this one cleaned up properly before I get into posting results. The jet tubes are slightly clogged with plastic swarf restricting the block far more than it should be. The machinists have found a solution to this but I'm at home and will rebore the holes myself as soon as I pick up a new drill bit tomorrow.

he is still trying to fix somethings so he can test it so we will have to see.
 
UberBlue said:
WOW!.... I stared at the pics so long I wound up with a big puddle of drool in my lap.
lol....Down boy!, sit thats a good boy.:D
But ya, WOW!!! very cool little tubes huh.

Btw cather, have u watched them machine the lexan? Wut rpm do they use?
 
Well picked up a 0.8mm drill bit and did the jet tubes again properly. Spoke with the machinists about what I did to fix it up and they'll program it in. Basically need to drill the holes once, and then go back over them again to clean them out once they cool down.

As a result, the block is now much more free flowing than before, and has picked up some performance as a result.

Straight away on the first remount I'm seeing a full 2.0C clear lead over the best result I had previously gotten with the White Water over 12 mounts of that block. This is using a T'Bred B at 2400MHz/1.85v running BurnK7. This is significant because it was my design goal to gain a full 2C, and secondly, it's just the first time I've mounted the block. History tells me that I rarely get it right first time, so there may be a little bit more hiding there as I remount to test again.

I snapped some pictures of the jet tubes in action without the base-plate using an Eheim 1048, and a close-up of the assembled block which is intended to highlight that the jet tubes actually do go some way into the cup holes, as some people have mentioned that it wasn't that clear what was going on there.

c210.jpg


c212.jpg


c211.jpg
 
UnLoadeD said:
I can't see how the ends of the jet tubes can be any closer than flush or even with the tops of the cups. I'm guessing the top of the cup plate is flat, and the bottom of the jet plate seems to be flat also. If the jets are a bit longer than the thickness of the rest of the plate, can you tell me how that was done. Also could ya post a pic of the jet plate from a side view? I'm assuming something similar to a fly cuter was used to face every thing but the center area, but am curious how the plexi was polished up again afterwards. One last part i'm curious about, you mentioned finding some plexi with better machinability, but you never said what it is.

Hopefully the picture above will better highlight that the tubes do actually enter the mouths of each cup.

This is achieved by cutting away everything but the central rectangle block that the jets are cut out of, so the rectangle block sits slightly proud from the rest of middle piece. This is done using a regular mill bit. The polycarb is not polished up afterwards. The face that's being cut is the one that sits flush against the copper, and as you can see if gives the copper a silvery sheen when you look at it through the milled polycarb surface.

I can't answer what particular polycarb is used, purely because I don't know. The machinists have been sourcing it for me based on what they thought would be best for the job.
 
Mikeonatrike said:

have u watched them machine the lexan? Wut rpm do they use?

No, haven't watch it yet. I keep asking the machinists to tell me when they're cutting it up, but since they have other jobs I haven't seemed to sync up with them yet.

How thin are the bottoms of the cups? are we talking sub-mm?

Oh yeah.

why do you always have to design the least mass-production friendly block ever? :)

The design evolved itself once I understood what I was doing with it and how to make it perform better. :)
 
Cathar said:


Straight away on the first remount I'm seeing a full 2.0C clear lead over the best result I had previously gotten with the White Water over 12 mounts of that block. This is using a T'Bred B at 2400MHz/1.85v running BurnK7.

I snapped some pictures of the jet tubes in action without the base-plate using an Eheim 1048, and a close-up of the assembled block which is intended to highlight that the jet tubes actually do go some way into the cup holes, as some people have mentioned that it wasn't that clear what was going on there.

Me wantz 1:D

Cath, what where the temps, I have that pump and same T-bred setup in sig as you ?? And runs 24/7 folding.

Thanks.

Rough idea on $$ ?
U B duh man again :cool:
 
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