I'm not having much luck mounting this block!

So far I've done it twice, and twice I've gotten worse temps than a Vantec CCK-6027D. The last time I didn't have a really good imprint on the base. Now I think that if I were to take it off again, I would find the same problem. I just don't know how you all manage to get good contact with this stupid 4 bolt method.

I've got a Maze 4 with a 6" heater core and a maxi-jet. It's 90% blead.

You're not going to believe this! Before when I was on air, the system sesor and the CPU sensor were so close that I set it up wrong in MBM!

So I have no ide what my temps were before, but they were in the high 40's with the Vantech. Right now I'm folding with the CPU temp at 35 with stock settings on a 1600+XP.

Hehehe, my old kt7a was like that too, and I too mixed them up.
I'd just hunt around the board with a straw blowing warm air on it. The temp sensor is usually in the neighborhood of the battery on Abit boards, and reacts quickly to let you know which is which.
I had mine aircooled for a couple of months (warantee check) while I was building it's watercooling system.

Now that I'm watercooled, I just pinch a line to see which one moves.

if thats the problem, I would get a compunurse or something. Place it right up against the core but try to get it to not touch the bottom of the waterblock, only the cpu if possible.

Jon

Shroomer said:

You're not going to believe this! Before when I was on air, the system sesor and the CPU sensor were so close that I set it up wrong in MBM!

So I have no ide what my temps were before, but they were in the high 40's with the Vantech. Right now I'm folding with the CPU temp at 35 with stock settings on a 1600+XP.

Click to expand...

Does the Maze 4 come with springs? The springs allow the block to set flat with even pressure placed on all for corners as long as the nuts are screwed down evenly. Personally I tighten the thumb nuts down as tight as they will go, but all block mounting kits will be different.

Yes, they come with springs. I had a heck of a time because it's so tight in there. You have to keep the screw from turning with one had and turn the nut with the other. Anyhow, I did get it done and I'm pleased with the results. I expected more of an overclock than I got, but I'm happy with the silence! I'm sure once I've mounted it a few more times it will come easier.

Shroomer said:

Yes, they come with springs. I had a heck of a time because it's so tight in there. You have to keep the screw from turning with one had and turn the nut with the other. Anyhow, I did get it done and I'm pleased with the results. I expected more of an overclock than I got, but I'm happy with the silence! I'm sure once I've mounted it a few more times it will come easier.

Click to expand...

If you have the option of removing the motherboard side panel. Locate the four holes surrounding the CPU socket. Remove the MOBO and drill these four holes out. This will help tightening the machine screws down. Try this thread I started. It has two different methods, but take note of the small circuits in and around the holes if you choose the other method of mounting any block.

CLICK

Thanks Dodge, I was too impatient to drill the holes yet. I'll probably do it at some time. I cut down some vinyl washers to clear the circuits near the holes.

So how do you like your Maze 4? Did you have anything before to compare it too? I know you can't really report temps as others will jump on you for doing so.

Well, the best I could do with an AX-7 and a 53cfm mechatronics fan was 1700 MHZ and that was at 1.92 volts, but on a different board. The temps were WAY to high to keep it there, though.

It seems this chips sweet spot in voltage is 1.85. I've had it up to 2.1 or so for extended periods testing @ 1750+. Even at 2.1 volts I was able to keep it around the temps I was getting with a Vantech 6027-D at stock settings on my 1600+.

Right now I'm at 1750 @ 1.85 volts and running Prime 95 @ 38c. If I were still on the Vantech and stock settings, I would be at around 44c. I'm sure I could get better with a remounting and a thinner layer of AS3.

Doesn't give you much, but I think it's worth the $42.00 I paid for it. I really do like the way it looks, too. When I was bleeding it, the bubbles through the block looked great. I should have pics up by the weekend. I'm going to borrow a better Digital camera.

Those temps look ok, whats holding you back from pushing to a higher MHz. I am running 2.1 volts yes my temps are higher, but you have a lot of room before you need to start worrying about temps. There is a good chance your MOBO is not even giving you the correct temps anyways. Let the overclock tell you when your system has reach the limit.

Exactly, I have to go to 2.1 volts just to get 25-50 more Mhz. This is an old chip. I bought it back when the 1600+'s first became affordable.

There are pics of my rig here .

I've got a square cut out of my m/b tray. It helps a bit, but if you want to make things much easier try this. Nylon washers on both sides of m/b and add nuts to hold the screws securely in place. I can now change blocks or install/uninstall very easily. The only caveat is that one of the nuts hinders use of the lever holding your cpu in. If I want to change cpu's (which I do very rarely) I then have to slide out m/b tray an remove the one nut. Because you don't have to mess with the screws now, you have both hands free. I use one to hold the block in place while I tighten everything down.

peace.
unloaded

i only have nuts on the bottom of the motherboard and it stays solid there. my NF7-s just grabs onto the nylon and doesn't let it move at all! removing the nylon is pretty hard too though..