New heatsink higher temps?

Hi,
just replaced my V9 with a coolermaster heatpipe. however the temperatures in my mainboard utility are higher, the actualy sink feels a lot coller than the V9 did. anyone got any ideas whats causing this? I removed the thermal sensor from the V9's variable fan from underneath the chip and pulled the existing sensor up so that it would tocuh the underside of the cpu when installed. Is it meant to touch the underside of the chip? Also i didnt use new themal pate really, i mixed what arctic silver was already there with some Zalman paste just to cover the die.
DoM

Gone from one crap heatsink to another...

Thats really helpful but the second one is less crap than the first, so why the higher temps. and anyway what is so crap about the heatpipe?What are using?
DoM

Well I would say that the reason it is saying you have higher mainboard temps is because it is disapating more heat into the case. The censor beneath the socket is always off by about 5-10 degrees F so you are probably just fine.

Thank You,
Daniel

Yeah the auctual sink is warm but not hot to the touch, its is generaly all aroound warm instead of really hot areas like the V9. How can i get more accurate temp readings?
DoM

I don't know what the heatpipe looks like, but the sensor beneath the socket will most likely read 5-10 F cooler than it actually is, so you wouldn't be fine. In terms of one crap to another crap, you might be getting hotter temps because I believe the heatpipe is passive cooling(no fan). A link would be great since I don't know what it looks like or anything. I do think that the mixture might have done more harm than good and you're better off using either AS or the Zalman compound applied properly. Also, have you tried reseating it? It might feel cooler because it doesn't have proper contact with the core, therefore not transferring as much heat; the untransferred heat staying on the core.

The heatpipe isnt passive, your thinking o the Zalman VGA passive heatpipe. I have however noticed that the fan on the heatpipe is not the correct one, the cooler is second hand and the previous owner has replaced the fan with a much less powerfull for noise reduction. Here is the link to the coolermater page for my heatsink,
http://www.coolermaster.com.hk/product_detail.asp?lang=eng&at=boutique&category_id=1&product_id=12

I have rest the sink, it is warmer than before and the temps have droped slighlty-46 at average load(playing DoD or CS).
DoM

I have also orderd a 60MM>80MM fan adapter. An 80MM fan should be of huger beneftis should it now?thye do provide alot more ariflow than 60MM fans.

A self-made conical duct or shroud would be better, IMO. Thanks for the link, BTW.

well, it might be better, but if you got one of these type of adapters, it could be worse. http://www.svc.com/clearblu80to.html
Did you get something like that? if so you will probably have backflow and it would probably be worse. Because airflow is restricted.

Had you asked you would of been recommended this one. http://www.svc.com/ak80to60clea.html It wont have backflow because of the side holes instead of the typical restricted cone shape

But for your cooler, i'd recommend just getting a more powerful 60mm 5000+ rpm fan for it, and you will probably have better temps then with an 80mm fan.

arabarabian said:

Well I would say that the reason it is saying you have higher mainboard temps is because it is disapating more heat into the case. The censor beneath the socket is always off by about 5-10 degrees F so you are probably just fine.

Thank You,
Daniel

Click to expand...

Why do you think that is so, Daniel? What happened to the extra heat when it was a worse HSF? Did the processor soak it all back up?

I have the second adapter-in fact the exactly same one. Will let you know how it goes.
DoM

Your problem isn't any of what was said above. Disregard it, cause most of it is crap, except replacing the fan with a faster one would do you lots of good.

In fact, Overclockers.com did something with it....


You may have used a little too much thermal goop, so I'd advise removing the cooler, cleaning off all remnants of the old arctic silver and zalman paste you said you had (off the heatsink and the core, clean them with a clean rag with some rubbing alcohol on it) and reapply a fresh coat of paste. If you have some of that zalman paste left over, that should do fine. You may want to invest in some more AS3, it could shave off a few degrees if you're really serious.

Er.. I'm not saying this with total certainty, but afaik, mixing thermal pastes is not a good idea.. You have no clue how they might interact with one another, and the combination of both could give you less heat transfer than either by itself.

Cool it.

http://www.nexfan.com/evcucoacofrs1.html
To further your education on HS's, read the review link.

Using white compound that puppy dropped my temps 20-25 degrees. Athalon 2100 downgrade B core OC'd 2166MHz, A7N8X rev 2.0. Like a dummy I originally used the AMD HS & fan & pink pad. Relatively new to OC'ing but allow me to share what I learned from extensive research.

Researched proper removal of old HS compound and used GoofOff sparingly & carefully applied only to the die several times, then absorbed with a Q tip and blew lint away. I chose GoofOff because I needed the solvent to "melt" away the pink AMD pink wax compound. Alcohol not good, has water in it. Die surface is "rough" with microscopic peaks and valleys for compound to fill, and if they are filled with old, left-over compound you lose die-to- HS heat transferrence because old compound won't properly mate/mix with the new.
(See Vertig0's post.)

Ultra-extremely important you properly remove old compound before applying new. Don't mix compounds, use one or the other.

If you haven't researched proper application of compound I suggest you do so, it takes very little applied ONLY to the die.
How much is a little? This quote from another forum;

"You apply the thermal grease to the part that says "AMD Athlon XP" on the top, or the middle square part. This is the core of the CPU (well, technically, the core is inside the square thing). Put an amount of compound about half the size of a grain of rice on the core and spread it even with a razor blade. It tells you to apply the compound to the base of the heatsink and clean it because this causes the compound to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the metal of the HS." (REPEAT: HALF the size of a grain of rice.)

More proper removal and application info: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

Your cooler looks like a mighty fine rig, but no matter how good the cooler if the old compound is not properly removed and the new properly applied you're spitting into the wind for distance.
In my humble opinion, if your cooler is functiong as it should, your problem lies in the compound. OldBird

domstar said:

Yeah the auctual sink is warm but not hot to the touch, its is generaly all aroound warm instead of really hot areas like the V9. How can i get more accurate temp readings?
DoM

Click to expand...

All AMD MB's do not have the capability to "read" the AMD CPU's internal temp. I double check Probe by using Speed Fan.
http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Long page, scroll way down to the bottom.

Speed Fan shows me within one degree of what Probe says and I doubt both could be all that wrong. There are constants in calibration called "standards" established by the National Bureau of Standards. (I use to work in a calbiration lab.) I feel certain the MB's mfgrs use those standards when calibrating their temp sensors and I seriously doubt they are THAT far off.

For comparision; I have two computers, one with the ASUS A7N8X, one with the Soltek SL-75MRN-L, both use the same CPU, Athalon 2100 OC'd 2166 MHz. The temp sensors in both MB's show me the same temp within one to two degrees confirming what I said about using a temp calibration standard.

How can you get more accurate readings?
Ironically just yesterday I read this in one of the top PC Magazines, July issue, page 152.

CPUCooL v7.1.1
" For those who like minute control of their system, CPUCooL is a set of very tiny system utilities that you can use to tweak the settings of your CPU and motherboard. CPUCooL monitors the temperature, fan speed and voltages for many motherboards (check supporting files for supported systems). It includes a utility for shutting down the PC with a single key combination, and a basic optimizer for Cyrix, AMD and Intel chipsets. A newly included option allows for varying the CPU frequency via the SMBus. If any of this makes sense to you, you might want to check it out. If not, you probably want to stay away."
http://www.podien.onlinehome.de/CPUCOOL.HTM
Pretty cool utility with lot's of goodies and if your MB doesn't allow you to adjust the FSB it will.

OldBird

Ffats said:

Your problem isn't any of what was said above. Disregard it, cause most of it is crap, except replacing the fan with a faster one would do you lots of good.

Click to expand...

Thanks for calling my suggestions crap...