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Should i lap my slk900?

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SLK series is already one of the best HS out there
you dont really need to lap it
but if you want to you can
like what they said you'll gain a few degrees

BTW if you do lap it
post results on before and after :D
 
sangapski said:
BTW if you do lap it
post results on before and after :D

will do, sir! ehehhe

i'll probably be doing this tuesday or something since that's when my nf7-s should be arriving from newegg
 
You will only want to lap it if you can feel some surface imperfections. If not it would not be worth you time.

Thank You,
Daniel
 
sangapski said:
SLK series is already one of the best HS out there
you dont really need to lap it
but if you want to you can
like what they said you'll gain a few degrees

BTW if you do lap it
post results on before and after :D

I would have to disagree with you there. It really depends on which batch you get. My SLK-800 had machining ridges that were each about 1mm deep and I had to lap it before putting it on.

arabarabian said:
You will only want to lap it if you can feel some surface imperfections. If not it would not be worth you time.

Thank You,
Daniel

Well, that's relatively true. If it's pretty flat, it's only worth your time if you want that extra 1 or 2 degree drop...you won't see that much of an improvement on temps.
 
If you do go ahead and lap it, try to get your hands on some 1500 grit sandpaper, and let us know how it goes.
 
altec said:
If you do go ahead and lap it, try to get your hands on some 1500 grit sandpaper, and let us know how it goes.

Hmm...I don't really want to start this debate, but I have to give you you this option...some people don't think it is beneficial to go over 800 grit. I quit at 1000. It's really up to you. If you want a great mirror shine to go with your flatness, then go as high as you want. If you don't really care(like me because who's going to see it and it's not much of an improvement after 800 or 1000), then go up to 800 or 1000.
 
I have never heard of much of an improvement over 1000 grit either, but it is nice to be able to see a penny in the nice mirror shine when you are done. ;)
 
I read on here(sorry for not quoting but i don't know where it is) someone said to use 400 grit(if it's very rough), because it'll cut off alot of time, then to move to 600 and then finish with an 800/1000. The rest makes it look nice and has been debated if it helps or not. That's pretty much what he said.
 
Cypress said:
I read on here(sorry for not quoting but i don't know where it is) someone said to use 400 grit(if it's very rough), because it'll cut off alot of time, then to move to 600 and then finish with an 800/1000. The rest makes it look nice and has been debated if it helps or not. That's pretty much what he said.

Yeah. 400 grit takes A LOT of time off but also has deeper grooves (damn...I forgot who mentioned this). Anyway, after doing 400, I'd mark the base with a marker again just to be sure you got all the way to the bottom of the grooves. This time you should just see the line start to evenly get hazy as you go on. It only took me 10 minutes to do all my lapping.
 
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To make it obvious how the lapping is going. As the base gets smoother, the marker line will get harder and harder to see.
 
nerdlogic said:
My SLK-800 had machining ridges that were each about 1mm deep and I had to lap it before putting it on.


My slk-800 had the same thing. I lapped it recently and lost about 6 or 7 degrees.
 
In my opinion you only lap heatsinks that you can see the scraches or something like that, this is a very good heatsink I put one in a friends pc, and the surface was simply flat!

you lap it you can make it worse.


conclusion:
If its a low quality hs go for a head and lap it, if its already good dont touch.
 
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