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Water Cooling and the "Moving Man"...

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mikieboyblue

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2002
Location
NY
Hello everyone!

I would like to start by apologizing if this has been brought up before. I was not sure what to search about for a such a thread.

What I would like to know, is:

Water cooling - is it safe for some one who usually has to move around his PC a lot (car trips in the front seat of a truck - sometimes bumpy)?

I recently have started taking off my SK6+ HSF so that it cannot scratch the core while I'm driving (I do use a shim). I would like to just cool the cpu and I'd probably be putting all the equipment inside the with the radiator exhausting out the top of the case, just behind the PSU.

Any help would be great!

Thanks,
Mike
 
It can be very safe, depends how you set it up... First, use a block that mounts via the 4 mounting holes through the board, this method is VERY secure and there would be no need to remove it for traveling. The other issue would be to do an 'in line' system with NO resevoir. Use a "T" line and cap the end of it off so it is air tight. You will also need to secure the pump with velcro or zip ties or something similar. The rad will need to be bolted down as well. If you take these steps, you should have no issues moving the case, you can even move it upside down if you want. Just as long as the system is airtight, and all components are bolted down you will be fine.
 
nikhsub1 said:
The other issue would be to do an 'in line' system with NO resevoir. Use a "T" line and cap the end of it off so it is air tight.

A resevoir couldn't be made leak proof? I have heard a lot of negative things about in-line setups using a T. Hard to bleed and hard to fill. But a T would work? What would you cap it off with? Just a normal cap and some plumbing glue or soilder or Nylon tape? Is there any way to install a auto bleed similar to your home heating systems that use water? Maybe an in-line valve?

Thanks
Mike
 
Do you happen to have any pics of your inline system?

I'm sorry I don't have any specs on my pc here...I use a hotmail account for all me email and since I was here before the outlaw I can still post but I can't change anything in my cp...But just to let you know this is what I have so far (not that it matters for this thread)

Abit KX7-333R
SK6+ w/ 60mm Delta
AMD XP 2000+ (2200+)
(OC to 1.85GHz - 10 x 185 FBS)
Corsair PC3200 - 512mb (@ 370MHz)
3 60gig Western Digital HD
(2 in RAID0 array)
Asus GeForce3 v8200 Delux (ONE HELL OF A CARD!!)
SoundBlaster Live! 5.1 Plat.
Plextor 16/10/40A
Cretive Labs 12x DVD
 
mikieboyblue said:


A resevoir couldn't be made leak proof? I have heard a lot of negative things about in-line setups using a T. Hard to bleed and hard to fill. But a T would work? What would you cap it off with? Just a normal cap and some plumbing glue or soilder or Nylon tape? Is there any way to install a auto bleed similar to your home heating systems that use water? Maybe an in-line valve?

Thanks
Mike
Resevoir's are 'supposed' to be air/water tight but I don't trust them. I use a T, always have and I don't see why people think they are so difficult? They are simple and very easy to bleed. I fill mine with a beaker. When the water is full, i tilt the case in every direction to get some of the air out, the water level goes down, I add more and repeat. Once i have gotten all the air out that i can using this method, i turn the pump on. The water will look foamy due to all the air but it will come out on it's own out the top of the T. As the water level drops, keep adding liquid. After about 2 hours of the pump running, I cap the T and use the machine. All the air is not out yet but It will continue to bleed even when air tight, usually takes 24 hours or so to completely bleed out. Then, I just check the water level in the T once a day for 2-3 days to make sure it has not dropped to far. Here are some pics of mine:

relay.jpg

t.jpg

fullinside.jpg

And below is a very old pic but you can see where the T line is:
insidebare.jpg
 
But, if you had a rad exhausting out the top, how would you bleed it then, since the rad would be the highest point.
 
Nikhsub1: Ok, it looks like a good plan. How long is the tubing for the T fill/bleed line? Also what kind of rad and pump are you using?

For a block I am looking at:

MAZE4-1 Block - Use with or without Peltier 50mm x 50mm max size - Includes Mounting Hardware, AMD Processor Copper Top, 1/2 Fittings, Brass Fittings, Standard nylon mounting bolts.

60 bucks.

I am looking at a possible 100w peltier with that set up...would that also be possilbe or should I just not bother?

Also, what kind of relay are you using and where could I get one? I would like it to turn on with the computer.

Sandman: Yes, I thought about that and will try to attach it to the case wall. Or like Nik has it.

Everyone: Thanks for the input - I'll take anymore you might have about a peltier, water block, and relay.

Thanks!!!
Mike
 
mikieboyblue said:
Nikhsub1: Ok, it looks like a good plan. How long is the tubing for the T fill/bleed line? Also what kind of rad and pump are you using?

For a block I am looking at:

MAZE4-1 Block - Use with or without Peltier 50mm x 50mm max size - Includes Mounting Hardware, AMD Processor Copper Top, 1/2 Fittings, Brass Fittings, Standard nylon mounting bolts.

60 bucks.

I am looking at a possible 100w peltier with that set up...would that also be possilbe or should I just not bother?

Also, what kind of relay are you using and where could I get one? I would like it to turn on with the computer.

Sandman: Yes, I thought about that and will try to attach it to the case wall. Or like Nik has it.

Everyone: Thanks for the input - I'll take anymore you might have about a peltier, water block, and relay.

Thanks!!!
Mike
100W pelt will be no good, not powerful enough, you would need a 220W or so. If you go the pelt route, you need to prepare for condensation, not easy or fun. You can get the relay HERE My T line is about 10 inches long or so.
 
nikhsub1 said:

100W pelt will be no good, not powerful enough, you would need a 220W or so. If you go the pelt route, you need to prepare for condensation, not easy or fun. You can get the relay HERE My T line is about 10 inches long or so.

So so then I guess I'll just advoid the pelt route and get the same water block without the cold plate. I don't need to bother dealing with condensation what I'm really trying to do is get rid of the sound. My 2000+ runs at about a 2250+ (185 x 10) and it only hits 50 C on the hottest days when room temp is about 95 - 100 F. Normally full load of about 44C. I am mainly looking for noise reduction from my 60mm delta.

What temps does your setup keep you at?

Also what would I have to do to extend this to cool the video card?

What kind of fans and rad do you have?

Thanks for the quick replies,
Mike
 
Last edited:
I use a reservoir in my system that I built out of a PVC T. I move my machine sometimes and have no problems. It's pretty well sealed. I do agree with the 4-bolt method. That block isn't going anywhere when it's mounted like that.
 
I don't have a lot of room in my case - I just checked and it looks like the easiest place to put a rad is above my psu, I could probably put on on the bottom of the case if I could find a small enough one. Any ideas? I'm bummed that I may not be able to do this.


Mike
 
I have an Antec full tower -

6 5.25 bays
2 external 3.5 bays
4 internal 3.5 bays (in removable holders)

approx. 25 in. x 8 in. x 17.75 in.

I have two cd-roms, floppy, and four hard drives.

Mike
 
Here are some pics of my case sorry for the poor quality I have little to work with right now....

comp1.jpg

comp2.jpg

comp3.jpg

comp4.jpg

comp5.jpg

comp6.jpg


If you need better ones let me know I can try....

What about this as a rad?
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/product.asp?0=205&1=244&3=101


Thanks,
Mike
 
Let me get this right:

You have a full tower case.

You want to use a 80mm radiator?

The smallest radiator I'd use is one like Dtek's cooler core combo, but you could fit a much bigger one in. I have the mid-tower version of that case, and a 9.5" x 6.125" x 2" heatercore in it. :)
 
Giblet Plus! said:
Let me get this right:

You have a full tower case.

You want to use a 80mm radiator?

The smallest radiator I'd use is one like Dtek's cooler core combo, but you could fit a much bigger one in. I have the mid-tower version of that case, and a 9.5" x 6.125" x 2" heatercore in it. :)

I can see anywhere to put it? Do you have any pics? Maybe it's just hard because I'm new to this and I haven't seen a rad up close and personal. I'm just doing the measuring and it doesn't see like I can put it anywhere with out relocating something.

Mike
 
Just a note on portability of water cooled pcs:

I built one into a briefcase for carrying around. :)

It has been going on the road for a few months and has been to Indiana, Ney York, Connecticut, New Jersey, New Hampshire and Massachusetts.
Most of those multiple times.

No leaks yet. :D
 
rogerdugans said:
Just a note on portability of water cooled pcs:

I built one into a briefcase for carrying around. :)

It has been going on the road for a few months and has been to Indiana, Ney York, Connecticut, New Jersey, New Hampshire and Massachusetts.
Most of those multiple times.

No leaks yet. :D

Cool....I don't know how you guys fix this stuff in there....man...I can't even figure out who I could put one in my case...but I'm goign to relocate some harddrives and see what happens...

Any help with water blocks, rads, and what not?

I'm looking at a maze4 and a pro-rad from dtek....suggestion on where to get tubing?

Mike
 
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