Swiftech Open chas Mod'd -pics

WarriorII · Jul 10, 2003

After being discusted with my H20 temps.
(38c idle / 44cLoad @ 1.85v)

I decided I must do something about it.

I had tried the "Stimple" trick.

and that knocked a degree off. (Oh boy !)
(1 at a time my friends)
I did notice that coming off full load, temps would drop
quicker now. -hmmmm..... ***:brain churns:***

I figured I had a thick enuff base plate, I coun't hurt it that
bad. And having more surface area was always better.

So out came the dremel & electric drill. (move over Tool Man)

I measured out where I was going to cut.
So I wouldn't be "Free handing it" too much.

And began cutting. More pics below.

WarriorII · Jul 10, 2003

Here's the 1st row.
(note the stimple pattern in center)

and more.

WarriorII · Jul 10, 2003

Cut Channels:

Measured with a 1/8" drill bit.

WarriorII · Jul 10, 2003

A mod'd body to the open chas block:

An "extention" if you will. To direct the H20 down further
against the base plate.

Now I have seen temps go as low as 32c Idle.
& as high as 38c Load, w/ 3/8" tubing & Ehiem 1048 pump.

Just a little time & effort.
& planning.

Cheaply too.

EDIT: - notes

I have been using this on my A7V333- overvolted to 1.92v
& have seen LOAD temps of 43c.

Voodoo Rufus · Jul 10, 2003

Nice Warrior. At first I was thinking, "why would you mess with a perfectly nice block?"

Did it help all that much, or just that one degree like before?

Heck, I tried to take apart my MCW462 by taking all the screws out, but I can't pry it with a screwdriver or break it apart in a vice. How'd you do that?

WarriorII · Jul 10, 2003

Temps are even better @ 1.92v.
At the 1.85 or less their fantastic!
Basically room temp @ idle

Getting the top off - vice & rubber mallet.
Be gentle, but firm.

It is tuff getting it to seperate the 1st time.

Just use "RTV" when you reassemble it.

Imacrzyprsn · Jul 10, 2003

Incredible mod!!! Nice job man.

WarriorII · Jul 10, 2003

Actually, I have had this mod done for quite some time now.

I had stopped & thought about leaving the "holes" in the block.
(Like Cathars "power sprayer" block design)

but, I figured go with what I know works.
(I didn't want to mod a "spray head" & have it not work,
being this is my only H20 block)

Thanks.

Skiing Squirrel · Jul 10, 2003

Very interesting. Very good job.

Since87 · Jul 10, 2003

Good work. Nice to see some good experimentation going on.

WarriorII · Jul 11, 2003

Thanks,

There has to better ways than just going out &
buying something off the shelf.

TyRex · Jul 11, 2003

WarriorII said:
Thanks,

There has to better ways than just going out &
buying something off the shelf.

agreed.......I didnt do channels to mine, but I did create dimples all around and did some modifications to the top. And of course over-bored 1/2inch barbs. Now my 462 is doing great!

JFettig · Jul 11, 2003

that looks really good! one thing I would do is flaten that copper tube and make it spray into all the channels rather than the few that are below the inlet.

Jon

WarriorII · Jul 11, 2003

Actually, thats a fairly large piece on there.

It sits less than1/4" away from the base plate.
Covers almost all of the channels.

One thing I didn't show was the cross bar I cut in.
(center of the channels- running accross them - like an H)

And being an "Open Chas" block, I decieded against it.

Swiftech Open chas Mod'd -pics

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