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Is it True Arctic Silver 3 gets better with time lowering temps more?

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billstuck

Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2003
That's what their site said. Anywhere from 3 to 5C drop in temps after 200 hours.

To be honest I installed my Zalman 7000 with AS3 last night as wasn't as impressed as I thought. My Idle temps are actually about 1C higher, and my loads are only around 3 or 4C lower.

I tried applying and reseating the sink 3 times :(
 
It is supposed to take a while to burn in. You may have put too much on, it doesn't take much.
 
Nanidin said:
It is supposed to take a while to burn in. You may have put too much on, it doesn't take much.

Should I see the CPU die or should it be covered with a thin layer.

I applied with a razor blade and smoothed it over. Took it off and applied with a razor blade, but this time using more of a scrape and thinned it out allot.

My temps were much higher so put enough to cover the CPU die again and that's where I'm at.
 
Welcome to the forums!!!

You should have about .5mm spread over the die and the hs. You should also use a plastic spreader, not a razor blade.

Wait at least 100 hours of use before you try again. I noticed maybe 1 or 2°C drop after running the computer non-stop for about 4 days.

-Bobby
 
Bobby said:
Welcome to the forums!!!

You should have about .5mm spread over the die and the hs. You should also use a plastic spreader, not a razor blade.

Wait at least 100 hours of use before you try again. I noticed maybe 1 or 2°C drop after running the computer non-stop for about 4 days.

-Bobby

Thanks, do you think I could of damaged anything by scraping the CPU die? I didn't dig the edges in and allways kept it flat, but I dunno...now you've got me worried.
 
Using a razor blade increases the chance to gouge the surface. I don't think you can cause any real harm but it's just not something I'd want to do on a cpu or hs.

In other words, don't do it again :p

-Bobby
 
Originally posted by Bobby

You should have about .5mm spread over the die and the hs.

We're not frosting a cupcake here. ;) 0.5mm is way to thick. 0.05mm is what you want to shoot for. Think of it like a thin sheet of paper, the India paper used in religious texts.

Also, 3 C to 4C lower load temperatures are nothing to shake a stick at.

Colin Thompson
Arctic Silver, Inc.
 
Colin said:

Also, 3 C to 4C lower load temperatures are nothing to shake a stick at.
Oh yea I'm def. happy my loads went down, and it looks like maybe the idle went up 1C, but the way this Abit board jumps around with temps that could be a very small or even in the margin of error.

Man i wish Abit responded to motherboard questions with the quickness you replied. Right on.
 
So will the layer be translucent enough for me to see the core? I've installed a few heatsinks and I still have a feeling I'm not spreading the AS3 correctly.


-- Dave
 
Stick your finger in a thin plastic bag and blotch on the AS3 in a perfect super thin layer.
 
Seems to me blotching will create large craters, valleys, and air bubbles. I dunno about doing it that way.
 
I use my trusty flathead screwdriver. If you spread it on right, it won't scrape. But if you are an extra careful person, a small plastic straight edge will do nicely.

Insure a very thin layer, enough to just cover up any trace of the die.

Thermal goop does go through a settling in process. It's only goal is to fill tiny micro valleys in the CPU/heatsinks surface so there is more thermally conductive contact area. The first few weeks will do this.

Your increase of temps can be due to many factors, and I'm leaning toward probably too much goop.
 
You AMD users have got it lucky. Spreading an thin, even layer of AS3 on a P4's Integrated Heat Spreader is a nightmare (for me at least).

I find it easiest to use a credit card for spreading it on. And yes, over time, your AS3 will 'set' and your load temp. should drop by a degree or two.
 
While we've got the Arctic Silver guy here... is the ceramique stuff really better?
 
I've found that the cellophane method is the easiest to do consistently.

Dab 1/4 - 1/2 rice grain sized blotch in the middle of the contact patch on the HSF (after thorough cleaning)

Use plastic (rigid cellophane like cigarette /cd /gamebox wrapper or clean inside of a ziplock) to grab a little of the goo.

Smear this on the cpu, using alternating circle motions to 'grind' it in to the (previously thoroughly cleaned) core. Smooth it out with horizontal strokes, top to bottom. You should be left with a translucent covering you can tell is there, but is NOT opaque.

Smear the original glob into the HSF using alternating circles. Use clean plastic (move your finger) to thin it out, really thin.

Viola.
 
I've read a couple reviews that all had evidence that ceramique actually performs better. That in addition to:
It is easier to clean up
It is NON-Conductive (unlike AS3)
It is Cheaper

So I would say that, YES, ceramique is better than AS3
And it also needs to "burn in"
 
Last edited:
Alright, cause my friend was trying to convince me that AS3 was the best stuff on the market but I read that ceramique was better. Thanks.
 
Nanidin - Ceramique compound and Arctic Silver 3 are very close in performance. Which one is better in a particular application will depend on the surface finishes, the gap area, the minimum possible bond line thickness, and the pressure on the compound.

The difference in any case will be slight.
 
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