never using a poly top again (pics)

[Azeroth]

I had an interesting experience last night. Well Im playing a game on my computer and it suddenly freezes up (not the whole comp, just the 3d game). So CTR-ALT-DEL back to windows and everything is fine in there, I try the game again and it freezes. Then I try to run 3dmark and it freezes up as well. I think "weird, seems like only 3d applications seem to freeze up, must be corrupt drivers or something, so I give up for the day and decide to reinstall the drivers the next day. But before I turn off the computer, I look through the window in the case and what do I see, my waterblock is dripping like crazy and the top of my Ti4200 is covered with water :eek: :eek: . I quickly turn everything off, take out the card to dry it off, and then look at my waterblock.

This is what happened:

http://shadoknight.homestead.com/files/crack1.jpg
http://shadoknight.homestead.com/files/crack2.jpg

I must have tightened the barbs on too hard and the added water pressure must have pushed it over the edge and cracked the top. I just ordered an aluminum top, and hopefully by videocard is ok. Gonna have to be a week or so before I put everything back together and test it out again. :( :( Hopefully the 3d problem was due to the card being wet and will be fine once it dries up.

[n6b72g]

What waterblock were you using? Looks like a TC-4 from the pics.

[Azeroth]

yep, its a TC4, at first it looked like it was leaking between the copper and the clear top, but when I took it off I saw the crack. Im just worried about my video card, has anyone else had their card get wet like that but then work fine?

[n6b72g]

I would let the video card dry out for a day or two. Also having a fan blow on the video card would speed up the drying process. If you have any aftifacts after you let the card dry out, then dip the card in some Isopropyl Alcohol (99% is best I think) and then let it dry under a fan for a couple days.

[Azeroth]

Ok, will do. Now I gotta wait for my aluminum top to arrive first though. Should I use something between the two pieces of the block to seal it better, like marine goop? or is the o-ring enough.

[n6b72g]

The o-ring should definetly be enough.

[Chris_F]

I've worked with acrylic before, and of had things crack while working on them. That's the main reason why I would go with Aluminum. The poly tops can also melt.

[Azeroth]

oh well, now i have a chance to lap my p4 and block.

[thorilan]

from the looks of the crack that is not a polycabonate top but an acrylic top

there is a huge diference between polycarbonate and acrylic and one of then happens to be cracking under direct pressure (poly carb handles loads way better)

[n6b72g]

The TC-4 tops are polycarbonate though.

[Diggrr]

That sucks about your waterblock and your video card and all, but when you install hose barbs into any clear plastic, use a silicone adhesive and only hand pressure. No tools are needed, and the silicone will do the rest.

I'm not making light of your situation, but why does everyone start out cursing the plastic topped blocks, then go on to explain how they themselves did the killing? I'ts not the poly that was at fault, it's operator error.

A can of air, followed by a hairdryer should be enough to get the water off. The alcohol is a last resort if the above fails. Alcohol can remove the conformal coating that may have saved your card, so don't wet it again after using the alcohol.

Again, not trying to be the heavy, I've just seen alot of threads like this....Treat them toys nicely, and they'll be nice to you.

[Cathar]

Originally posted by n6b72g
The TC-4 tops are polycarbonate though.

There are also varying grades of polycarbonate, some more brittle than others.

The Dtek TC-4 barbs however seal in with O-rings. You only ever need to screw them in with firm pressure by hand, and that is enough. No need to crunch them down hard.

[n6b72g]

The newer TC-4's have the built in O-ring in the barbs, but some of the older TC-4's do not.