View Full Version : AMD Unlocking Tape
Liquid_N2
03-08-01, 08:04 AM
For those of you who want to unlock your AMD, Plycon are selling these adheasive tape strips to do the work for you and look more professional, generally making a better job of it.
They are on sale at Plycon (http://216.157.14.244/trace.htm).
Go there and have a look. They are a bit on the pricey side $23.99, but it comes with three pieces for multiple or re-doing of unlocking cpu's
Here are some screen shots:
[img="http://216.157.14.244/trace3.jpg"]
[img="http://216.157.14.244/trace2.gif"]
Hope this helps.
Tachyon
03-08-01, 08:08 AM
I've been reading that people are having problems using the tape. Because happy people don't usually say much I have no idea what the % is.
I decided to try and makeone of my own with some foil and scoth tape, so far its working like a champ. Only downside is that I got a headache from trying to see such little pieces of foil. :-) The only prob I encountered was pushing the foil and tape hard enough to make good contact over the L1's. After a couple of failed attempts and a few curses :-), it works fine. I want to thank you N2 for the tip (i had the "nailpolish" post), Thank you very much, well, time to see if i can finally get that 1200+ i've been looking for... :-)
Liquid_N2
03-08-01, 07:17 PM
Glad I could be of some assistance, let me know how you get on.
Good luck.
OpenFriday
03-08-01, 09:09 PM
Fiz thats a great idea once i get a mobo for my duron 650 i'll try the tinfoil and tape thing. im not a big fan of spending money i.e. conductive pens ect.
i was going to use a pencil but who knows now. i'll definitly try that, thanks.
-OpenFriday
I am glad I could help, I hope it works for you. Like I said the only prob I ran into was that I didn't puch the foil down hard enough, after a couple of tries, works great so far. :-)
Myrddin
03-08-01, 11:47 PM
I had real problems with my tape. I contacted them and they said there had been reported problems where you were putting the tape on processors where pencil lead had previously been applied. Although I had already thoroughly cleaned the CPU first with an eraser then with rubbing alcohol, I did it again with no luck. Then they said 'press on it with your fingernail to help the connections'. That didn't work, so I even tried the flat of a flat screwdriver to get even pressure across the contact strips. Didn't work. I tried all three strips and I am virtually certain in each case they were aligned properly.
So for me it was a total waste of money. Had it worked I would be singing its praises. I don't know why it didn't work for me, it certainly looked like it *should* have worked, and I don't doubt it works for many people, it just did not work for me. Rather than bitch about a refund I just chalk it up to experience and move on, it isn't worth my time.
Best of luck.
Sohryu Asuka Langley
03-09-01, 01:01 AM
I taped over pencil to make sure it stays on
I gotta "wade in" in this one. The idea behind this tape-on solution to bridging is innovative, but I have to ask whether it will stand the test of time. Now I realize we're not try to jump-start a car with this stuff, meaning the current through those bridges is not high, but in my 30 years in electronisc, I have never seen a tape-born adhesive that retains the same properties after prolonged exposure to temperature, even in the 30-40C range common on the CPU substrate surface. My preferences for joining the bridges goes in descending order:
Solder (Requires good micro-pen, technique and a magnifying glass)
Window defogger repair compound (Requires good technique and a magnifying glass)
Pencil (Only acceptable for temporary experimentation. Requires technique and magnifying glass)
Tape-on solution (Requires technique, magnifying glass and the "jury is still out on this one")
Hoot
new2overclocking
03-09-01, 11:11 AM
Hoot (Mar 09, 2001 07:57 a.m.):
My preferences for joining the bridges goes in descending order:
Solder (Requires good micro-pen, technique and a magnifying glass)
Window defogger repair compound (Requires good technique and a magnifying glass)
Pencil (Only acceptable for temporary experimentation. Requires technique and magnifying glass)
Hoot
Hmm, is soldering the bridges really a good option? I didn't know if the high temps (~350 F) would hurt anything around that area. I know you can bridge such a small gap with solder, but trying to get it NOT to bridge between all the other L1 traces might be tough, even with a micro tip.
Anyone try this and have it work without problems? If so, I might give it a shot.
--Andrew
Well, I soldered mine and with an eye on maintaining minimum time/temp soldering, it went fine. I used an 18W micro-tip soldering pen and plain old Pb/Sn solder. Did I mention a Bausch&Lomb 30x stereo microscope? It has been running rock solid for 2 months.
In all honesty, I did not feel good about the reliability of graphite and was too cheap to buy the de-fogger repair kit. As a card carrying Mil-Spec Certified solderer, there was a pride issue also :-)
Hoot
Sohryu Asuka Langley
03-09-01, 08:16 PM
I used vinyl.. you know the stuff that signs and stuff are made from?
i wonder if the metal colours are conductive...
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