question about water chiller

[Super Nintendo]

Hey,


I have had my watercooling setup for about 3 to 4 months. I know it hasn't been that long. I like it a lot but I'm just wondering if there might be something a little more extreme I could add to the setup. I also go to a lan party once a month and move my computer. Is there anything I could do that would let me be able to move my computer around but still do more then just watercooling.

ps: no prometia its to much money.

[nealric]

I took my waterchilled computer to a lan.

You will need to find a chiller that you can attatch to your rig. I got a yy cube server case and bolted it to a lab waterchiler that was the same width and lengh.

Its heavy (like 80lbs) so I need a friend to help carry it, but with two its not that bad (it has handles built in)

The only annoying part about transportaoin is that the system need to be drained and then refilled when I get there- but it definetly turns heads at lan parties :D

[Super Nintendo]

lol. I might try that out. thanks for the reply.

[L337 M33P]

You could do a custom job with a Peltier and a load of aluminium sheeting if you are a handyman. Bolt or otherwise secure on an aluminium box on the side of the case, put a TEC PSU in it, complete with 226W pelt and have a waterblock attached to the cold side/have a heatsink in the reservoir. The hot side could be cooled by a number of quiet fans on an absolutely massive passive heatsink. You can get one of these for about $50 - large lumps of aluminium. It would be heavy but handles are your friend :)

[Super Nintendo]

you got any more info on this that I could use to make it. I think this might be my new project because I need something new to do. And I got a cheap but good place to get metal

[L337 M33P]

I'll probably post some diagrams tomorrow - it's 11:40 in the UK now :yawn:

[Super Nintendo]

alright, thanks a lot

[L337 M33P]

http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/pc601.JPG

This is something like what you had in mind??

http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/framePC60.JPG

OK for this bit you can use aluminium sheets and box section that can be found at any hardware store. The hard bit will be to get the panels to the same colour and texture of the PC60 case's brushed aluminium, but I guess you could get them custom finished. For the box sections welding is really not an option since aluminium doesn't weld very well, so I think bolts and nuts are the way to go. For securing the kit to the case I am afraid you will have to do a little "hard modding". This will involve cutting away sections of the outer case to reveal the struts that run along the corners, at which point you can attach the frame with small bolts and a spacer made out of a bit of box section. Cutting a small hole for the fan's power leads and the water pipes shouldn't be a problem. For easy access I suggest having the top removable, maybe by having bolts or wingnuts instead of a more permanent fastening.

NOW FOR THE COOLING

http://www.theforumisdown.com/uploadfiles/0103/K8.JPG

The OCZ K8 Heatsink (http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/heatsinks/Eliminator+K8) is an AMD Opteron heatsink designed for passive cooling. In short, it's big. Perfect for a juicy peltier. For active cooling a large fan could be placed at the inlet or for directed airflow several 60mm fans could be placed in a line along the edge of the heatsink, secured with epoxy or something similar. For fan control wiring up a SPDT switch with 5v/12v/0v connections will give you 7v/12v options. To keep the TEC PSU cool then a low CFM fan could be added at the back.

For the placement of the power supply I recommend bolting it to the side of the extension box and running a second power cord out of the back. That way it doesn't clutter the PC case as much. For powering the fans a molex extension cable can be added as only about 1A will be drawn, then split either through a junction box and modded fan wiring or with a molex to lots of molex adaptor. An important thing to note is that the TEC MUST NOT be turned on without the PC on as the water in the coldside block will freeze, and if you turn the PC on without the TEC then depending on the setup it could be crispy.

To mount the MASSIVE heatsink in the frame I really am stumped, because those fins cover the entire surface area. The best I can come up with is using the mounting holes and rigging up some sort of strap arrangement. For sandwiching the Peltier and waterblock, you need the one with the four bolt holes AND A COPPER TOP. These bolts will have to put 50Kg on the top so a Lucite one will probably crack. As for securing them on th other side I really haven't got a clue. My best idea is marking where the holes line up with on the heatsink and drilling them, then see where they land on the other side and if they are under the fin then use a spark borer to cut the fin off. Spark borers cut through any metal, I know this because my grandfather used one to "drill" holes in ball bearing balls. Cutting off the fin part directly above the hole should be enough, and provided that you can get a socket in there then securing some threaded rods through it should be easy.

For your existing cooling loop I recommend getting a really phat pump, as it will have to pump around another waterblock (I would recommend a DangerDen as the water flows over a larger area, instead of above the core) and keeping the radiator. That way you could add GPU and NB cooling but spit out some of the heat before it reaches the chiller.

The case will be quite bulky but as it is aluminium it should be no heavier than a well-made steel ATX case.

PRICES: The TEC PSU should be about $160, the massive K8 HS is about $40, the fans should be about $40 and the aluminium should be in the region of $30. Peltiers are $50 and another waterblock needs to be bought.

Sorry about the crappy pics but I need a better photo editing package and I need to borg my sister's drawing pad.

[Super Nintendo]

thats a lot it helps