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Lapping Sandpaper?????
- Thread starter stan03
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2001
- Location
- Lugoff, SC
Lowes has 1200grit? are you sure youre looking in the right place? of course, 1200 doesnt do anything but make it really shiny.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2003
- Location
- SF Bay Area
If I may divert this thread slightly, do you think that lapping past 600 grit gives any considerable gains in performance, or are you just trying to get a nice finish? I tend to believe that at around 600 grit, lapping does nothing other than enhance visual appeal.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2003
- Location
- SF Bay Area
Ah. Be sure to post some pics when you're done. Theres nothing more beautiful to an overclocker than a glistening heatsink...except maybe a glistening waterblock 
. 600 is usually where it should stop making any considerable difference btw, unless you want to start trying to lap the core.
. 600 is usually where it should stop making any considerable difference btw, unless you want to start trying to lap the core.- Joined
- Jul 28, 2003
The goal of lapping is make the base perfectly flat, not perfectly shiny
600 was good enough for me.
~DP
600 was good enough for me.
~DP
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2001
- Location
- Corner of No and Where
To continue the slight diversion of the original thread intent (since that has been solved )
I am one of the people that have had success going past 600 grit when lapping- on some but not all sinks/blocks.
My theory is: if you have a sink that starts OFF pretty flat and well made, lapping past 600 or so will get you very little although pssoibly a very, VERY slight additional advantage.
If you have an el-cheapo sink, such as many that I have used....lapping further may make a bigger difference.
I have observed this in practice but never really tested the theory fully.
)I am one of the people that have had success going past 600 grit when lapping- on some but not all sinks/blocks.
My theory is: if you have a sink that starts OFF pretty flat and well made, lapping past 600 or so will get you very little although pssoibly a very, VERY slight additional advantage.
If you have an el-cheapo sink, such as many that I have used....lapping further may make a bigger difference.
I have observed this in practice but never really tested the theory fully.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2001
- Location
- Corner of No and Where
I usually start with 400 unless the sink is atrocious (rare) then go 600 maybe 800. If the sink/block started off good I may stop there, but I usually go ahead and spend a minute or two with 1200 or 1500 (depending on what was at the store the last time I bought wet/dry sandpaper) out of habit.
It usually only takes me about 10 or 15 minutes for all but the WORST sinks.
It usually only takes me about 10 or 15 minutes for all but the WORST sinks.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2003
- Location
- Twin Cities
I used the 90 degree method myself. I think the most important part is that you do it on a perfectly flat surface and always try to apply pressure downward evenly so that the HS remains as flat as possible to avoid any misshaping of the HS.
N
nerdlogic
Guest
NO!!! Don't rotate the HS!
This is grant you a convex HS. After my second session of lapping my SLK-800 using BillA's method, sure enough, the HS base is starting to be angled. Meaning that it's perfectly flat, but a side view of the base shows it to look like a trapezoid. Sand in ONLY one direction. pick it up, put it back in its starting place, then sand again. This is the best method to lap as suggested by BillA and Graystar.
This is grant you a convex HS. After my second session of lapping my SLK-800 using BillA's method, sure enough, the HS base is starting to be angled. Meaning that it's perfectly flat, but a side view of the base shows it to look like a trapezoid. Sand in ONLY one direction. pick it up, put it back in its starting place, then sand again. This is the best method to lap as suggested by BillA and Graystar.
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