i looked through puals guide and maybe i missed something in there. I have a duron 800 and an abit kt7a v1.1, is all i have to do to oc it is simply fill in the L1 series? or the L7 also for voltage and then try the stepping in the fsb and or multiplyer...
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abit kt7a duron 800 overclocking, non-puals guide
- Thread starter unreal
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- Jan 21, 2003
- Location
- Northern California
You will have to connect the L1 bridges to unlock your processor. Unlocking it will allow you to change the multiplier on your cpu which is what you want to do when overclocking.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2003
- Location
- SF Bay Area
The KT7A allows for fsb adjustments up to 155mhz...no mods needed to be done whatsoever. Your CL3 may very well have a hard time keeping up though. I'd say that that the multiplier being increased would be more beneficial anyways. There is basically no difference between 133mhz and say 140mhz front side buses.
- Thread Starter
- #5
so what your saYING is that since im only at a fsb of 102 basically 8x102=816 then ican just increase the multiplyer and it should do a little since my ram is causing the downfall.... hmm wonder if taking out the 1 256mb stick that is cas3 and leave the other 2 that are 2.5 in i may be able to increase the fsb,,, but is it worth the 256mb loss..... decisions,,,,
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- Dec 9, 2002
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yes its worth the loss man....i dont know of any game that needs + of 256MB ram and ur running SD ram too. There wud be hardly any difference between 256mb and 512mb from the setup u have. Having another 256mb on top wud do NOTHING trust me 
ive experimented enough. My 850mhz runs (with the right Voltage increase) @ 1250mhz. Thats the highest so far and ive had 185FSB out of it @ 6X multi i think it was, so its going some . Take that crap C3 stick out and leave it at that. Try and overclock the duron to 133fsb and increase the multi by 0.5X (along with the voltage core). I unlocked my duron by using the pencil trick, and it works great! good luck
ive experimented enough. My 850mhz runs (with the right Voltage increase) @ 1250mhz. Thats the highest so far and ive had 185FSB out of it @ 6X multi i think it was, so its going some . Take that crap C3 stick out and leave it at that. Try and overclock the duron to 133fsb and increase the multi by 0.5X (along with the voltage core). I unlocked my duron by using the pencil trick, and it works great! good luck
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2001
I used to run a Duron 800 on a Abit KT7a-Raid and it used to run pretty well. try dropping the multiplier to 7.5 and run a 133 mhz mhz FSB (you will probably need memory rated at PC133 or higher) My abit liked a lot of core voltage and I had to run this at 1.85v.. the Duron would do 1000 mhz without problem and would go a little higher but got unstable if the weather was warm. Most Duron 800's stop at about 1000mhz or 1050mhz.
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mine must be godlike pressing this CPU to do 1200mhz @ 166FSB its fun this was using 1.85VC how much higher do u think i cud go b4 the cpu fries?
pressing this CPU to do 1200mhz @ 166FSB its fun this was using 1.85VC how much higher do u think i cud go b4 the cpu fries?
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2001
gazzrawly said:mine must be godlike
No not god like.. your Duron according to your signature is a 850 which will do a little bit more and likes far higher FSB speeds than the 800
well ive been messing with my old duron 750, and that will do 195mhz FSB at 5.5 and 2.0v , it will also do 166mhz FSB at 6.5 and 2.0v, its runs alot faster at the 195fsb. i was quite amazed that it would reach this kind of frequency, albeit the multi dropped right down. at the moment ive just got it at 166x9 because i dont need it for anything special, just until my barton gets replaced.
Cheers, Turando
Cheers, Turando
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The reason for connecting the L1 bridges on your Duron is to be able to increase the FSB to 133MHz without fear if PCI or AGP BUS Speeds limiting you. The CAS3 PC133 is not limiting you at all so removing them isnt the answer, your CAS 2 PC100 might even be a problem when you go past 133 at 1/4.
Unlock the Multiplier then drop it to 6, raise the FSB to 133MHz using the plus option & not the presets, set to 133/33 & make sure to set the DRAMCLOCK = HCLK. I bet it will do that at default VCore. List down exactly what you have in SOFT MENU III & ADVANCED CHIPSET FEATURES so we can have a better look at what you are doing.
What's wrong with Paul's guide? Its extremely detailed & very reliable. It will do you good to read & understand it as you still have a good amount of misconceptions with overclocking.
Unlock the Multiplier then drop it to 6, raise the FSB to 133MHz using the plus option & not the presets, set to 133/33 & make sure to set the DRAMCLOCK = HCLK. I bet it will do that at default VCore. List down exactly what you have in SOFT MENU III & ADVANCED CHIPSET FEATURES so we can have a better look at what you are doing.
What's wrong with Paul's guide? Its extremely detailed & very reliable. It will do you good to read & understand it as you still have a good amount of misconceptions with overclocking.
- Thread Starter
- #13
ah,mi c see,, wait,,, i put whatw as said in sisoft, it said that 1 of my ram was cas 2 at pc100 and cas 3 at pc133,, it is set to pc133 not 100 ill go ahead and change that...isnt the multiplyer L7 bridges? i did read the guide and i understood alot, but not all,, i know some basics for the 1/4 or 1/3 for pci overclocking and such,
anytime i trry to change the multiplyer it seems to be locked or something on my board, it wont let me lower the fsb and raise the multiplyer, or vica versa. i was goin to change the settings to what pauls guide says is optimal but want to make sure the cpu is done first, i have set alot b4 reading pauls guided to those settings, so i know a bit about what some of those settings do.. i already have it set to hclk, ill reboot right now and write it all down and post again.
anytime i trry to change the multiplyer it seems to be locked or something on my board, it wont let me lower the fsb and raise the multiplyer, or vica versa. i was goin to change the settings to what pauls guide says is optimal but want to make sure the cpu is done first, i have set alot b4 reading pauls guided to those settings, so i know a bit about what some of those settings do.. i already have it set to hclk, ill reboot right now and write it all down and post again.
- Thread Starter
- #14
cpu user defined
multiplyer 8x
100/33mhz
fsb plus 2
speed error disabled
voltage power defualt 1.6/3.4
fast cpu decode fast
output drive control auto
enhanced chip prof enabled
force 4way interleave enabled
dram 4k page mode enabled
dram clock Host CLK
multiplyer 8x
100/33mhz
fsb plus 2
speed error disabled
voltage power defualt 1.6/3.4
fast cpu decode fast
output drive control auto
enhanced chip prof enabled
force 4way interleave enabled
dram 4k page mode enabled
dram clock Host CLK
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The L1 Bridges when broken will not allow you to change the multiplier. The L7 Bridges are the Voltage Identification Pins, closing them all will result to a default of 1.85VCore. When your still using the 1/3 divisor | 100/33 you should be at HCLK + PCI CLK only when you use the 1/4 divisor | 133/33 only then should you be running at HCLK.
Join the L1 bridges unless you want to try something a little crazy, enough to destroy something. IF you dare;
CPU = USER DEFINED
MULTIPLIER FACTOR = 8X
133/33MHZ
FSB PLUS = 0
SPEED ERROR = DISABLED
VOLTAGE POWER
CPU = 1.95V
I/O = 3.5V
FAST CPU DECODE = NORMAL
ENHANCED CHIP PERFORMANCE = DISABLED
FORCE 4 WAY INTERLEAVE = ENABLED
DRAM CLOCK = HCLK
Set all your memory timings to default or the slowest you can. Remember that it depends per BIOS revision what the presets will have in terms of tRP tRAS & tRCD so read up on that, sometimes NORMAL is faster than FAST.
The above settings can damage your computer. That much VCore can kill a poorly cooled CPU. Try at your own risk & nobody is responsible for any damage that can happen to your system except you. Try at your own risk.
Get ready to clear the CMOS
Join the L1 bridges unless you want to try something a little crazy, enough to destroy something. IF you dare;
CPU = USER DEFINED
MULTIPLIER FACTOR = 8X
133/33MHZ
FSB PLUS = 0
SPEED ERROR = DISABLED
VOLTAGE POWER
CPU = 1.95V
I/O = 3.5V
FAST CPU DECODE = NORMAL
ENHANCED CHIP PERFORMANCE = DISABLED
FORCE 4 WAY INTERLEAVE = ENABLED
DRAM CLOCK = HCLK
Set all your memory timings to default or the slowest you can. Remember that it depends per BIOS revision what the presets will have in terms of tRP tRAS & tRCD so read up on that, sometimes NORMAL is faster than FAST.
The above settings can damage your computer. That much VCore can kill a poorly cooled CPU. Try at your own risk & nobody is responsible for any damage that can happen to your system except you. Try at your own risk.
Get ready to clear the CMOS
- Thread Starter
- #16
i th0ught that the max vcore is 1.85 for my m/b... i have a volcano7 heatsink and fan on it, i also have a pal that used to be on it, thought the volcano would cool better, just louder...so maybe ill lower the multiplyer to 7 so im under 1 gig hrz and the vcore wouldnt have to be so high. thx for you help! much appreciated.. thx just read up on TRC and ill try to set that accordingly to see if i get any mem loss and just set it slower if need be, setting trs and tras before setting the trcd, trp, and tras
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Yeah it is 1.85V, it's been a while since I played with my KT7A - RAID 1.1, my mistake
- Thread Starter
- #18
oh ok,, so if it does not boot with these settings, could it be the l1 may not be connecting enough? or not cooledd enough? the pal i had before seemed to cool it fine until the fan stoped,, the volcano is nice and all but a little noisy. what do u think sonny? you have been a BIG help..
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To check if you connected the L1 bridges properly just drop the multiplier a step like to 7.5X, with the KT7A I believe it will just boot normally & would ignore your setting if the chip is locked. Keep an eye on the speed reported during POST, if it says 750 then you joined the L1 properly, usually a bad connection will cause boot anomalies. What did you use to connect the L1 bridges?
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