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Barton or T-Bred?

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PoX Freak

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2003
Location
North Carolina
OK, this may be a dumb question, but i want to see what kind of answers i get, especially about clockability...
I was just searching for a new proc and happened upon the XP 2800 Barton core running at 2.08 Ghz with a 333 FSB and 640k total cache for $173.00.
on the same page there is a listing for an XP2700 thoroughbred core running at 2.17 Ghz with the same FSB speed, but only 256k of level 2 cache for $135.00
Now, bieng the picky sort when it comes to technilogical data, i naturally would choose the barton for the cache only.
But since i've had lots of luck with the T-Bred core, im torn between two procs.
One of the above procs will reside in my 8RDA+ which has a T-Bred in it now, but will only hit 2.1 Ghz as of right now, and i want to see somewhere in the area of 2.5 Ghz and safely run Prime95 for about 24 hours with no hangs or blue screens.
Any suggestions would be well apreciated......:)
 
I would say Tbred. I hear the extra cache probably wont come into play for what you would be doing. Which would be?? PLaying games? High FSB would be my choice other than the extra cache.
 
Well Athlon64 is around the corner, I think save your money for the next big thing, go TB for this time, unless if money is no problemo
 
Well, in this situation I'd probably go for a 1700 dlt3c if cost is a concern. There's probably a good chance you can hit 2500 with good cooling.
 
Cooling is pressurized air only (7lbs. to be exact, measured at the duct end, sealed and tested with a Sampson cl38 pressure tester. reads pressure and vacuum). problem is, i'm very succeptible to air mass changes, which hampers cooling ability alot under pressure (i don't know why water cools under pressure, but not air). Water cooling or phase-change may be in the future, but for now im happy with what i've got. Also, gaming is not the only thing this rig does, it also remasters audio off of vynil, tape, reel to reel, etc. even CD's are re-done on this thing (i was an audiophile before the bug got me).
 
Just buy an airconditioner and watch out for condensation...It'll beat the crap out of plain watercooling.
 
Air conditioner?!?! How the hell do you fit an air conditioner in your case?!?! (just kiddin') Since i was an electronics technician in the past, I'm thinking of a Peltier system with 4, set side to side, slapped to a copper block the size of a slice of bread, and cooled by baseboard radiators on a 500GPH Bilge pump (12 volt), and powered by its own 350 watt PSU (from an old pentium server). This should cool it enough to hit 2.6 to 2.8, with the volt mod on the board (25,000 3DMark score, here i come...LOL).
 
PoX Freak said:
Air conditioner?!?! How the hell do you fit an air conditioner in your case?!?! (just kiddin') Since i was an electronics technician in the past, I'm thinking of a Peltier system with 4, set side to side, slapped to a copper block the size of a slice of bread, and cooled by baseboard radiators on a 500GPH Bilge pump (12 volt), and powered by its own 350 watt PSU (from an old pentium server). This should cool it enough to hit 2.6 to 2.8, with the volt mod on the board (25,000 3DMark score, here i come...LOL).

not trying to thread crap or anything.. but your idea of the pelts sounds great except for the bilge pump. most bilge pumps are not designed to run 24/7 if you want major gph and reliability, go with a huge pond pump :)
 
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