View Full Version : L1 bridge unlock quality questions
I was under the impression that as long as you connected the l1 bridges, and you were able to change the multipliers, then the cpu was unlocked just fine....
however, i have noticed that people are saying you need to make sure you have a really good connection between the bridges (aka a lot of lead, or the rear window paint stuff)
How could this make a difference in your ability to overclock, or make it go higher...
My duron 850 runs stable at 100*10.5 @1.85v
and runs relatively stable at 133*8 @1.85v
i get weird and stupid windows errors at any higher speeds
however i would like it to go higher,
i used .05mm lead to unlock it and it took a few tries, i also have an alpha pal6035 w/38cfm delta...
thanks for answering any of the above questions
Rob Cork
04-09-01, 03:03 PM
Enough people have reported being able to oc further when changing from pencil to conductive ink or defogger repair paint for me to believe it is true. I'm not sure why it affects stability, but it does appear to. The other advantage of using a good conductor (graphite is actually quite a good resistor) is that you will be able to leave it once it's done - some people find the pencil lead wears off over time, and they have to keep removing the cpu to redo the L1 bridges.
Also some people find when using a pencil that only certain multipliers are available, due to some bridges not being connected. Using a better conducting medium should ensure all bridges connect.
I personally use pencil, because it works for me. I haven't tried any other methods like a conductive pen to see whether I can oc further because it costs £20, and I've already got the gig :-)
cookedcomp
04-09-01, 03:16 PM
use rear window defoger repair kit and a pin!it will be much more stable because it is a cleaner connection(especialy if you use an alcohol pad first :) ) and hence will send a stronger signal to the clock multiplyer. In some pencil unlocked systems, the led isn't 100% and the signal is weak. This can creat some confision between the cpu and multiplyer, which can cause instability.
cookedcomp (Apr 09, 2001 03:16 p.m.):
use rear window defoger repair kit and a pin!it will be much more stable because it is a cleaner connection(especialy if you use an alcohol pad first :) ) and hence will send a stronger signal to the clock multiplyer. In some pencil unlocked systems, the led isn't 100% and the signal is weak. This can creat some confision between the cpu and multiplyer, which can cause instability.
I'm having problems like that w/ my system right now. At one point after I originally did my bridges w/ a #6 artistic pencil, I could hit 1200 (12*100) @ 1.55 Vcore easy! Then it was 1150 (11.5*100). Then it was 1050 (10.5*100). I redid the bridges w/ the same pencil, but to no avail. Then I tried a .5mm Mechanical pencil. Got it back to 1200 (12*100), and it was stable for about 6 hours, then it crapped out on me. I can run it stable at 1150 (11.5*100), but I don't know for how long. I'm definately going to pick up a GW FOP 38 tomorrow, though, and maybe some window defogger paint.
More and more people are saying that the pencil means of unlocking doesn't seem to last. Having found that trace tape is a dismal failure, I would have to recommend the conductive pen as the way to go. It was definitely a success on my first 1g TBird.
The masterless newbie
04-09-01, 11:42 PM
Rob Cork (Apr 09, 2001 03:03 p.m.):
Enough people have reported being able to oc further when changing from pencil to conductive ink or defogger repair paint for me to believe it is true. I'm not sure why it affects stability, but it does appear to. The other advantage of using a good conductor (graphite is actually quite a good resistor) is that you will be able to leave it once it's done - some people find the pencil lead wears off over time, and they have to keep removing the cpu to redo the L1 bridges.
Also some people find when using a pencil that only certain multipliers are available, due to some bridges not being connected. Using a better conducting medium should ensure all bridges connect.
I personally use pencil, because it works for me. I haven't tried any other methods like a conductive pen to see whether I can oc further because it costs £20, and I've already got the gig :-)
Hey... I saw this thing on Plycon's website that seems to offer a more permanent solution to the pencil trick... It's called trace tape or something. Plus, it seems safer than some of the other alternatives....
Here's the link!!!
Plycon.com (http://www.plycon.com/trace.htm.)
Lunchbox!
04-11-01, 12:40 PM
umm, can someone explain to me how to unlock the l1 bridge? I'm somewhat new to this, but am fairly knowledgeable, and would like to learn more...once again, thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated....P.S. does amd t-bird 1.33Ghz come unlocked?
Door Knob
04-11-01, 01:39 PM
You don't unlock the L1 bridge first off...you connect it. This unlockes the multiplier. There is a good article on the home page of this site that shows you how to do it step by step. Just click here...
Pencil Trick (http://www.overclockers.com/tips402/)
Door Knob
04-11-01, 01:41 PM
Oh yeah, I did hear that the new 1.33 TBirds came unlocked but I can not verify that as I have never had the opportunity to play with one.
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