View Full Version : Fried 1.33G
I just got my A7M266 And Tbird 1.33 Today... Sad to say, it didn't work out... Using Crucial 256DDR Ram... I used a Alpha PEP66 HSF. And AS2. The voltages were at Default from the I/O & V Core. Turned it on with only 1 HDD connected, and Video card. Posted, Beeped. Got into Bios. Locked up. Shut it down, turned it on agian. No Post, Beep, Anything. Smelled something burning, Electrical. The computer was only on the first time for 5-10 seconds. Took off the HSF. Nothing was chipped, damaged. But had Black Spots underneith. What did I do wrong? Could I have used too much AS2? I thought this stuff was non-conductive. A little did spill over off of the Metal Piece in the middle, I believe the Die. I then tried cleaning it up with some alcohol, and tried agian. Still no go. Can a 250W Power Supply Fry Chips?
jeff_harrison_344
04-12-01, 07:45 PM
I am sorry to here your loss. If we could, may we all please take a moment of silence to recognize how nice of a chip this 1.33 was....
*silence*
jeff_harrison_344
04-12-01, 07:47 PM
Seriously hough, all kidding aside, that sux man, and sorry to hear that.
I think a line of frowns is needed here (I never can be serious can I?)
:( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(:( :(
#3# RIP
04-12-01, 07:52 PM
Yes a good friend of mine just had the same problem. His lasted a week though. We knew it was running a little hot(48-50c) so we ordered a PAL6035. The day it came the chip fried........Black scorch marks under it
It was fast while it lasted.....DOES ANYONE KNOW THE DEAL WITH THESE CHIPS.....What are there tolerances..
Hey Kev,
Where were the black spots? Underneath What? I had a Duron 650 trying to o/c and bought this hsf from frys. This HSF had a peltier built on so I slapped it on thinking this would keep it cool. Turned it on and was getting no post, no video, no beeps. Smelled something burning too. While it was on felt the hsf and got a 3rd degree burn on my finger. Took off the hsf and saw scorched marks under hsf. I was So pissed off at frys for selling me a piece of sh@#!! I ran it up their ass. Thought I toasted the duron. Come to find out my A7V mobo was being really stubborn. Just make sure you try everything before you bury that chip!
blujay
It wasn't the PSU that fried the chip. Most likely you didn't have good contact between the HSF and the CPU. These chips fry incredibly fast. Since you just got it, you should be able to RMA it for another. When you put on the heatsink, before you fire the thing up. remove the HSF and make sure your thermal paste has made a good connection, also, make sure that your HSF is capable of handling the TBird.
fluxcapacitor
04-12-01, 09:10 PM
This makes me very nervous. I just ordered a 1.33 for $250 shipped+tax. The only reason I was able to afford it is because I got a huge anniversery bonus check. I make $7.05/hr, I will not be able to afford another one. But, I'll be running it w/ a Swiftech MC462 on top, shouldn't I be fine w/ that? Even if I OC it, I'd think the "The Boss" of HSF's would be up to the challenge, no?
SickBoy
04-12-01, 09:17 PM
The "Boss" will most definitely be able to handle it.... with a C/W of less than .2 (measured here on the front page) it's pretty much the best aircooling you can get for socket A.
SickBoy
Daniel ~
04-12-01, 09:19 PM
Please contact Ed on Main page (you'll see his post as you scroll down). He trying to get a handle on how many and why are frying.
Thank You.
I'm real sorry that your 1333 fried. Like what was said in another reply it sounds like your hsf wasn't making good contact. You shouldn't have any trouble RMAing it. I havn't had any trouble with mine (knock on wood). Hope you don't have any more trouble with your next one.
The black spots were undernieth the chip, inside the square. Thanks for everyones sympothy... It is being RMA'd through Atacom.com
Kev
I just put mine together, 1.33 AXIA, not O/Ced. A7M266 board 384 crucial ddr. I'm running @ 42-46 celcius for chip temp and 22-26 celcius board temp. All I'm using currently is the fan reccomended by AMD. Everything seems to be fine so far...
Bartman
04-13-01, 12:10 AM
Mepho (Apr 12, 2001 11:56 p.m.):
I just put mine together, 1.33 AXIA, not O/Ced. A7M266 board 384 crucial ddr. I'm running @ 42-46 celcius for chip temp and 22-26 celcius board temp. All I'm using currently is the fan reccomended by AMD. Everything seems to be fine so far...
"AXIA" and "Not Overclocked" don't go together :)
Please tell us you are shooting for 1500Mhz are cooled.. hehe, that will make me feel better...
You're just waiting for a HSF right? (please, please, please say yes!)
Just dont want to see a great chip wasted..hehe
I'm still kind of sour, cause I paid $250cdn for a TB900 last month, and now I can get a 1000 AXIA for $300. Thats a difference between 1100Mhz and 1450Mhz+ I would definatly pay an extra $50 for 300-400 more Mhz .. Who's with me?
I feel for you, I really do. I have 2 1200mhz keychains sitting right here. one fried and the other was crushed (I think, no visible damage) These chips seem extremely fragile. Everything has to be perfect or poof!
PimpDaddy
04-13-01, 01:51 AM
Mepho (Apr 12, 2001 11:56 p.m.):
I just put mine together, 1.33 AXIA, not O/Ced. A7M266 board 384 crucial ddr. I'm running @ 42-46 celcius for chip temp and 22-26 celcius board temp. All I'm using currently is the fan reccomended by AMD. Everything seems to be fine so far...
@@@ everything is fine??? it is 3am here maybe i am reading this wrong it is not overclocked?? what a bad dream i must be haven.......
wake up come on self wake up everything will be ok it is just a nightmare is all,,,,,
Kev (Apr 12, 2001 11:09 p.m.):
The black spots were undernieth the chip, inside the square. Thanks for everyones sympothy... It is being RMA'd through Atacom.com
Kev
thank heavens for small mercies!! or BIG mercies in the case! :)
Nagorak
04-13-01, 02:59 AM
Kev (Apr 12, 2001 11:09 p.m.):
The black spots were undernieth the chip, inside the square. Thanks for everyones sympothy... It is being RMA'd through Atacom.com
Kev
The blackspot means it overheated...I'd suspect there was poor contact between the CPU core and the heatsink. Good luck on your RMA.
surlyjoe
04-13-01, 11:23 AM
I find the biggest kille is people putting the HSF on backwards,,most only go on one way!!
LOL, like I said, I have just assembled this beast. My first attempt into the realm of O/Cing =). I guess I should have specified not O/Ced "yet", hehe. I have the A7M266 board, that's not very O/Cing friendly is it?
Just installed a 1.33/266 and a pep66 myself about a week ago. I can say for sure that it's easy to mount the PEP66 backwards! If you do, it will not make contact with the core properly. Being a bit anal about such things, I always mount the cpu and heatsink with the motherboard out of the case so that I can check the contact from all sides before first power up.
Hope you have better luck with the next one!
Mepho (Apr 13, 2001 11:39 a.m.):
LOL, like I said, I have just assembled this beast. My first attempt into the realm of O/Cing =). I guess I should have specified not O/Ced "yet", hehe. I have the A7M266 board, that's not very O/Cing friendly is it?
Mepho:
I think I may be able to help you on overclocking your A7M266. I havn't got mine yet but I think I figured out how to adjust the multiplier without soldering on the switches. I'll just coppy what I posted elsewhere about this here:
In Rev 1.01 of the board the switches were still on the board to allow you to change the multiplier, but they were not installed on the later revisions for some unknown reason. You can see a picture compareing the area of Rev. 1.01 and Rev. 1.03 where the switches are and the printing on the board that tells you what position to put them in here:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/mainboards/asus-a7m266.html It’s not quite half way down the page.
If you’re handy with a soldering iron you could solder some switches on. However, I’m a little nervous about taking a soldering iron to my new $180 motherboard. I think you could use a conductive pen to close the circuits that need to be closed. The only problem with that is to change the multiplier again after you’ve done this would be a pain because you’d have to clean the conductive ink off. I don’t know how hard that would be, but here’s a way around it. Put a piece of tape on the board between the circuit contacts and draw the circuits across the tape. Then if you need to change something just peel off the tape and put on another piece! I haven’t tested this yet because I haven’t ordered my board yet. I’ve been researching which board to buy and I was leaning to the A7M266 but the inability to set the multiplier was really bothering me. Now that I think I’ve solved the problem I’ll be ordering my new board and AXIA chip soon.
If anyone tries this on an A7M266 board let me know how it works! I’d like to know if I’m right.
Corax
seabhac
04-13-01, 06:19 PM
SickBoy (Apr 12, 2001 09:17 p.m.):
The "Boss" will most definitely be able to handle it.... with a C/W of less than .2 (measured here on the front page) it's pretty much the best aircooling you can get for socket A.
SickBoy
Hey sickboy. That millenium HSF is gonna ship shortly. That I believe is the new king. Measures in even better than the swiftech.... (according to the review a month or so ago) I hear the price is alright too... You guys should check it out..
As Dan said, keep an eye out for Ed's report, and let him know if and how a TBird got done in. I fried one, and the other, while applying the waterblock, took a little chip out of while hand tightening. These chips seem to be extremely fragile, and are almost causing me to look back at PIIIs.
I don't understand the black spots thing...
do you mean, on the die - almost under the laquer you can see black spots?
No, as in, flip the chip over, and in blank area inside of all the pins.
Kev
ahhh, okay. mines a different problem then :D
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