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1700 DLT3C or 2100 AIUHB?

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emericanchaos

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2002
Location
Williamsport, PA
which would be best for ultimate OC. i'm talking beefy water cooling and some serious voltage if needed. the rest will be the system in teh sig.

or if you have another AMD suggestion throw it in. just want a huge clock. looking for 220's -230's ram. something cable of 2.5Ghz plus .
 
Guaranteed 2100+ is cheaper now making the guaranteed 1700+ DLT3C T-Bred B pointless now...
 
Beefy watercooling + serious voltage = get a 2100+

1700+ DLT3C's are for the folks happy with 2400mhz who dont want to put 1.9-2.3+ volts to their cpus.
 
Yeah, go with the 2100 DUT3C AIUHB if u can keep the temps down.I use to have one but sold it. 2.1 vcore actually made it stable at over 2450mhz but the only catch is the date get some figures on that. See who overclocks best then ram the voltage. As far as the DLT3C JIUHB crapped out at 2400mhz and voltage was not helping at all had to stay at 1.9volts. It would crash at 1.95volts figure its the amperage. Temps are about the same on my rig for both chips 90f to 110f max using dual 80mm side by side on a H001 heatpipe modded of course
 
I think that a AIUXB 2400+ is a good choice, I saw someone hit 2500MHz on it with as little as 1.75volts, Prime95 stable!! That's what I call a good stepping CPU. Oh and it was on air AFAIK
 
I've got a 2100 at 2200Mhz with 1.65v.... still lots of room left but its enough for me at the moment.
 
What do you mean? The default is 266, well 2 x [133] but you overclock it with right equipment.
 
newegg guarantees it's going to be a T-Bred B and it's the place you'd get it quickest but the actual stepping will vary. It won't be a T-Bred A so that's why people get a 2100+.

You would have to pay like $26.50 more (!) to get an actual guaranteed stepping at
http://www.excaliberpc.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=12&products_id=1239
AIUHB:0302

It's not worth it IMHO.

If you're not buying a Barton, I think choices are
http://www.gameve.com/store/gameve_viewitem.asp?idproduct=267
http://www.googlegear.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80156
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduct.asp?DEPA=&submit=Go&description=AXDA2100DUT3C

P.S. EDIT:

Actually, I would get this for $6 less instead of the third choice above 2100+ newegg:
http://www.googlegear.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=80160

P.P.S.
meh, on second thought :
2000+ DUT3C could be either a T-Bred A or T-Bred B and newegg guarantees their 2100+ to be a T-Bred B.

There are no 1800+ DUT3C T-Bred A's so googlegear is still a good choice for 1800+. (Just tell them to get rid of that stupid Palomino picture next to it if you contact them.)
 
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i just sunk a bit of cash in the rig as far as mobo memory and graphics. i'm getting what is available from 32bit.

i have an 1800 JIUHB DUT3C right now. it does 2150-2160. this seems to be the ceiling for it and water cooling it won't net me more then another 100Mhz. so i want something bigger.
 
Tough break.
Those should do at least 100-150 MHz more even on air.

You sure you got the rest of the possible problems preventing you from going another 100-150MHz covered?
 
i think since you have watercooling, you should go 2100. they overclock great, are a little bit warmer than 1700's, but are still good CPUs. on air cooling, 1700s show their real potential (mostly on the 1.5v versions) I have had great luck with mine, some people havnt, and thats the thing. and thats how it is with all overclockers...you win some...you lose some...

either way, you will get a good chip, which is pretty much guaranteed to hit 2ghz no matter what. so go for it. get a 2100.
 
i don't have water cooling. i will when i get a new CPU.

for cooling i have an SLK 800a with 40CFM sunon 80mm AS3 lapped. 120mm stealth at intake (prepped for water cooling) the side window intake OEM fan and the 2 rear exhaust fans also OEM. my exhaust air isn't hot at all, my case temp is lower than my room temp by a hair.

i have my NB cooled with a cut cooler master AMD cooler. it's warm to the touch but not hot at all. i have the same on my south bridge and that's barely warm. i have the same sink cut into small peices and arctic allumina epoxied onto the mosfets. all have good contact and are completely covering.

NF7-s Rev 2.0 OCZ pc3500 @ 3-3-3-11 dual channel.(still soft from when i tried 225FSB) power supply is antec true power 550. the air exhaust from it is pretty hot though. i'm thinking of chaning the 92mm intake on it to something else.

Vcore is 1.9
Vdimm is 2.8
Vdd is 1.7 (highest the board will go.

i don't know what else to do.

case temp reads 32C(it's 4:30pm and very hot in my room) and CPU reads 42. this is full load since i fold. i can get 220*10 but it crashes WU's in folding. this is my known stable speed and it does take 1.9Vcore to acheive this. 1.875 crashes WU's again. maybe it's just luck of the draw and i have a not so good JIUHB DUT3C. i'm thinking memory is a possibility though. i'm running what OCZ ssays to run in this board. their site says 100% stable even in dual channel. but still OCZ has had a bad rep in AMD's.
 
I think you should go for a 1700+, and get some corsair XMS. not only can you run 220 fsb, but you can run 2-2-2-5 timings. which will help your performance out greatly. that air cooling is just fine for now, I would say upgrade your ram and save up a little longer on watercooling. and after all, watercooling doesnt help your temps out THAT MUCH. the water will only be as cold as the room that it is in. your temps will be more stable (wont vary as much in full load/idle)

Get some TwinX PC3200 Corsair XMS sticks. the low latency kind.
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduct.asp?description=20-145-431
something like that.

what case do you have by the way?
 
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