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overclocking an older duron 800

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unreal

Registered
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Location
miami
now i found out that the sanford eagle hb2 had the most graphite in it to make a solid connection, while still being able to be taken off.... am i wrong with this? and when making the connection make sure they do not connect as well as the lines be shiny to make sure the connection is there... im i correct in this?
 
All you gotta do is grab a pencil, or even a mechanical pencil, I think I used 0.5mm one on my chips, and just move it back and forth over each bridge several times so they do sort of shine from the graphite. Just make sure that non of the lines touch each other, or you can short the bridges and make the chip act up
 
do you know why it will uunderclock to 700 but nothing else? the fsb will goto 133 at 7 multiplyer, but anything over or under it wont post..
 
but if it is locked then how am i making the multiplyer from 8 to 7? i used a sanford eagle hb2 which was considered to have the most conductivity.
 
if u used the .5 mech pencil, it actually raises the resistance on the l1 bridges, u are trying to have the lowest resistance possible, so u get a better OC, those new "high-polymer" contain very little graphite, generally, a softer and darker pencil would contain more graphite and have a lower resistance
________
One tree hill forums
 
Last edited:
Pencil
Resistance
Dixon Ticonderoga 1388-2
1.1 ohms
Berol Arcadia 167 #2
2.3 ohms
Faber American #2
3.0 ohms
Sanford Eagle HB #2
122.7 ohms

No wonder it didn't work! Use something a little more conductive... A standard #2 should do you just fine (it worked for me). Remember, an ohm is a measure of resistance. The more ohms, the more resistance. You want something that's conductive, that is something with a small amount of resistance. You could also try conductive paint or pens for a more permanent solution.
 
yeah,, oops,, hehe i read it wrong,, guess ill have to redo with redo artic silver 5, guess it isnt that bad to redo,, just a hassle.
 
I don't think arctic silver 5 will work very well for you either. It's designed to be thermally conductive, not electrically conductive:

Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)
 
no, oppps i ment redo with pencil trtick then as5 for the hs
 
it seems though i tend to freeze around 54 when its going towards load,, does this have anything to do with i made the settings on my abit kt7a rev 1.1 board for the cpu fast and all enabled in the softmenu? should i disable anything when oc'ing it?
 
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