IT"S ALIVE< ALIVE !!!! Buahahahahaaa !

[Nebulous]

Yeah boi! Otay, before you start askin yourself;'what's wrong with this guy?" I'll give it to ya straight. I got one of these from Bender: http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=219149. After he modified it for me cuz there was noway of me getting a power source that will push 120v DC, he re-wired it on parallel so it runs 12v DC @ 50 amps. Got 2 powmax 500w psu's since the 12v rails are 25amps ea. Several days of hacking up an old Inwin case , some fancy re-wiring of the psu's 12v rail wires, swapped my 1250 pump and voila, it's up and running! Using the Bios 16 on my NF7s-2.0 , 1.9vcore and 2.8vdimm 7-3-3-2 and at full load after about an hour, temps are 24c ! :D No pics yet of the finsihed chiller, gotta borrow a digicam, but will post pics asap.

There's alot to this but i just gave the the short version of the story ;)

w00t!

[vonkaar]

Sounds great ^_^. PICS!

50 amps draw... that's gonna be some crazy power bills.

[Nebulous]

Tanx! 50amps from 2 psu's :D

http://members.speedguide.net/lt73/temps_1.jpg

Dam i need a digicam!

[vonkaar]

Well, 50amps total, I mean. Crazy craziness.

[Raider84]

is that pic a shot of motherboard monitor 5!?!? if so, how did you color and change the font and crap for those reading!?!?

[Soja]

Originally posted by Raider84
is that pic a shot of motherboard monitor 5!?!? if so, how did you color and change the font and crap for those reading!?!?

For every sensor there is a "Visual" option where you can mess with the font, colors, style, etc...

[Nebulous]

Originally posted by Soja


For every sensor there is a "Visual" option where you can mess with the font, colors, style, etc...

Yup

[El<(')>Maxi]

Damn nice Thundr/Bender. I want one too:p

That will probably heat your room nicely in the winter. Seriously, how much heat is coming off of the pelt box? How do those loaded temp's compare to an 'on die' water cooled pelt setup?

Congrat's on the success

[El<(')>Maxi]

Originally posted by vonkaar
Well, 50amps total, I mean. Crazy craziness.

C'mon....were overclocker's. Sanity is optional:p

[wannaoc]

Show me pics of the setup! I want to see the guts since you got one. :D

[Nebulous]

Hmmm, I did'nt notice any real heat comming from the chiller's core, i mean there IS heat, but not enough to heat a room, lol. Not sure about an "on Die" setup. Like I mentioned, i'm using the 16 bios which are nortorious for misreading temps. i figure i'm around 28ish or so which is not bad at all. No condesation proof needed cuz i'm not going below zero so i'm happy :)

Also both the Cpu block and the NB block are cold to the touch and the water return is cold also.

[sandman001]

all you need for condensation is to go below the dew point.

[Raider84]

Doesn't the water/tubing just have to be below ambient to collect condensation.

[Nebulous]

http://members.speedguide.net/lt73/benchie_1.jpg

No Condensation yet and i left it like this overnite. This is the most i can get with the pos ram i have at the moment (Corsair XMS3000 512mb PLT stick) Waiting on the Twinmos BH-5 I bought from drewthomas to see what she can really do.

No too shabby for an XP2100 Tbred B 304 eh? ;)

[vonkaar]

Not at all ^_^. You really do need to be careful about condensation though. Even if you OC up past the 40s or so, ANY point where the water is below the dew-point is potential drippage. Meaning, the water coming off your CPU may very well be HOT water, but the tubes coming directly off the chiller could be danger spots. I would at least get some neoprene wrappings for THAT tube.

[Nebulous]

Tanx vonkaar, but my fame wa short lived :( The power draw on the outlets of my home is too much. I checked the psu's cables and the outlets where they were plugged in and it was extremely hot. I can cause a fire at this rate :cry: I'd rather be safe than sorry. i took the chiller apart and removed the pump, then re-installed the pump back in the water cooler ( Cube). Oh well, it was good while it lasted.

[Fast420A]

Get a real 12 volt power supply.

[Nebulous]

Originally posted by Fast420A
Get a real 12 volt power supply.

Been lookin all over ebay for a 12vDC with 50a, no go :(

[cypher_138]

I'll keep an eye out for ya Dino.

[Nebulous]

Tanx Cypher :D

[El<(')>Maxi]

Wasn't the chiller originally wired for 120v?

Switch it back and see how it does maybe. There should be some power requirement's on it for 120v operation. Or maybe you could run it on less than peak current and still achieve good cooling.

[vonkaar]

A 120v 5amp PSU is not only hard to find, those that we sell (refurbished, even) are around $2k a piece. Dem tings aint cheap.

[Bender]

Originally posted by vonkaar
A 120v 5amp PSU is not only hard to find, those that we sell (refurbished, even) are around $2k a piece. Dem tings aint cheap.

Thats why I switched it over to 12v :rolleyes:

$44 for two power supplies was a much better deal.

[JFettig]

I wonder if you could get some high PIV bridge rectifiers and just run 120vac into them and get 120vdc... that and some extremely hard to find 200v max 10,000uF(probably dont have equasions infront of me) capasitors................... I should take a look...


Jon

[Fast420A]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2553252666&category=32720

What about rewiring for 24V? Or would it require more than 50A @ 24V.

[Bender]

Originally posted by Fast420A
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2553252666&category=32720

What about rewiring for 24V? Or would it require more than 50A @ 24V.

The required amperage at 12v is around 40. At 24v the amperage would be about 20 amps. The PSU on eBay looks absolutely perfect! You can even tweak the voltage to see what works best. Rewiring the core is not a problem if you want 24v. I left each bank of TECs separate so all you need to do is connect the two halves in series instead of parallel.

[Fast420A]

Glad I could be of service! :D

[Aktunka]

Hey Thundr7, just a quick question since you said that the outlets in the house were getting very hot. How old is your house? The reason I ask is that I live in an older house and when I would run something like a space heater off of some of the outlets, they would get very hot and I finally had one start to melt the plastic. After asking around, it turns out that the outlets being so old just like built up a ton of resistance or something, so I just bought new outlets and replaced them and now no more issues. Runs nice and cool when stuff is plugged in. Anyhow, if you have an older place try a new outlet in there and see what happens. They are cheap too so no loss really :)

Aktunka

[Nebulous]

Originally posted by Aktunka
Hey Thundr7, just a quick question since you said that the outlets in the house were getting very hot. How old is your house? The reason I ask is that I live in an older house and when I would run something like a space heater off of some of the outlets, they would get very hot and I finally had one start to melt the plastic. After asking around, it turns out that the outlets being so old just like built up a ton of resistance or something, so I just bought new outlets and replaced them and now no more issues. Runs nice and cool when stuff is plugged in. Anyhow, if you have an older place try a new outlet in there and see what happens. They are cheap too so no loss really :)

Aktunka

Well, it's a highrise building complex. Built in the late 70's, regutted and rebuilt during the 90's. Evrything is pretty much up to date.

[johan851]

Hmmm...I was thinking of getting one myself, but I have a feeling my parents wouldn't like the power bills...

I'll have to wait until I go off to college where they won't charge me extra for power. :)

[Ven0m]

Having 1square mm of copper cable for every 10A should be enough not to have cables too warm. Wiring should be also not too long - to avoid power looses and unneeded warmth.
Still, I suggest some "industrial" power supply. Maybe something for recharging car acumulators? (but they've got rather noisy transformators)

[squeakygeek]

rectifiers (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=110&type=store)
capacitors (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=140300&type=store)