cut bridges using electricity on TBred B

shiyan · Sep 1, 2003

Hi, at the end of the thread about cutting bridges using electricity, http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=156828&perpage=30&pagenumber=6 , namgorf asked about cutting bridges of Tbred B's using electricity, but never got an answer really.

I am in the same boat. I want to cut one of my bridges, and my 2400+ looks just like his 1700+, except a few bridges are pre cut. So I am wondering, does anyone know if it is the yellow dots which need to be connected to using electricity, or the brown ones between the yellow dots?

Here I borrow namgorf's pictures:

namgorf said:
hey fellas, i'm attempting to mod 2 1700s into 2400s for a A7M266-D board. The 1700s I have are of the new package, and the L3s seem to be a bit different.

Here's an image the corner of the L3

and here's where it looks like the L3s go to me...

i want to blow the last 2.. i'm gonna take off to wal-mart or something to get some clip leads

Anyone got suggestions?

Jason A · Sep 1, 2003

For some reason, I though all tbred-B's had multipliers unlocked...

this was coming from the ocworkbench website...

I have one also and was wondering if this is true or not.

Bigdogbmx · Sep 1, 2003

They are unlocked up to 12.5 on all boards and I think Nforce 2 have the rest as well. To get above 12.5 you need to cut the 5th L3 and that will add 8 to all the options in the bios. So you choose 7 and you get 15. This means you lose all the lower options but its a trade off isnt it.

Audioaficionado · Sep 1, 2003

It's the brown dots under the yellow dots which are copper lands under the plastic soldermask coating. You'll have to scrape down to the lands or use a needle probe to drill down through the mask in order to make electrical contact. When you do, you'll see the flash when the very small trace blows.

To make it an XP2400 you need to blow the last two L3 bridges on the right like this XP2400.

shiyan · Sep 1, 2003

Thanks Audioaficionado! But actually, 2400+ is what I bought. I will be setting it to 2600+ or 2800+, which will mean blowing one or two other L3s. The picture was borrowed from someone with a 1700+.

Thanks again. Now I know I need a needle.

Audioaficionado · Sep 1, 2003

Mabe this will help

http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/tbred_painting.html

7keys · Sep 1, 2003

I ran two wires with sewing needles on the end of each one to a fan header on my motherboard. Works great!

bulk88 · Sep 1, 2003

I would solder the neddles to the wire to prevent sparking in your fingers.

7keys · Sep 1, 2003

I threaded the wires through the needles and wrapped them with electrical tape.

ZaP37 · Sep 1, 2003

shiyan said:
does anyone know if it is the yellow dots which need to be connected to using electricity, or the brown ones between the yellow dots?

The brown dots are what you need to focus on, as others have already said. The yellow dots are just dots; they don't connect to anything. Maybe AMD left them there so they could deceive overclockers

...or so their laser-cutting equipment could auto-align on the bridges.

Originally posted by bulk88
I would solder the neddles to the wire to prevent sparking in your fingers.

I've done it many times and electrical tape also works fine.

shiyan · Sep 2, 2003

thanks for the info everyone. I will go and buy some needles.

shiyan · Sep 2, 2003

holy crap! It worked but not like I imagined. I blew out a whole piece of my cpu!

burned my hand as well! not much, just a tiny spot.

I was surprised by the sudden fizz and pop. I might have touched the two needle heads together by mistake, as the needle tips are a little melted/bent.

luckily I got the mulitplier I wanted.

7keys · Sep 2, 2003

I thought I had blown the CPU when I first blew a bridge, I have done it a few times and am always a little worried….but ….I think it’s safer than cutting the bridge.

bulk88 · Sep 2, 2003

7keys said:
I thought I had blown the CPU when I first blew a bridge, I have done it a few times and am always a little worried….but ….I think it’s safer than cutting the bridge.

The idea also scares me but I think since so many people have done it, it is safe. I wouldn't blow any bridges than the multipler ones because I haven't heard many people doing it and didn't hear any sucess stories.

shiyan · Sep 3, 2003

The dangerous part is if you short the needles rather than the bridge. The distance is so small, that this could happen quite easily. Then the needle becomes red hot real quick!

People who have been able to do it properly say it is possible to do it without physically leaving any marks on the cpu, but that was not the case with me.

I think it might have been the red hot needle tips that made a little piece of the cpu just pop.

7keys · Sep 3, 2003

I put the needles firmly in place and then had someone hit the power button for a second. I didn't want to be moving the needles around with power going through them.

Seal · Sep 3, 2003

maybe some of you guys could help me out here, i bought a new thorobred B xp1700 and want to get the mults 13+ which bridges do i have to blow?

also i noticed someone made a comment about nforce2 mobos automatically doing it, whenever i try and set my multi to above 13+ it makes it a ridiculous number like 4 or 5, how come this happens?

thanks
seal

7keys · Sep 3, 2003

It's the 3rd and 5th L3 for the 13 multiplier.

Check out this site it has interactive guides.

http://www.ocinside.de/html/workshop/socketa/tbred_painting.html

Seal · Sep 3, 2003

yeah that guide is like only to do single mults, i was hoping to unlock all the ones above 13x (cos i dont know how far my chip will oc and i dont want to keep having to break/paint bridges everytime i want to up the multi)

7keys · Sep 3, 2003

You only need to cut it to 13 or above and you can use all the upper multipliers.

cut bridges using electricity on TBred B

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