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View Full Version : L1's connected on AXIA, Asus A7v133 can't change multiplier!!!!


dimitri
05-14-01, 03:47 PM
Ok, i finally took the plunge and connected my L1's with some conductive paint from the defoggers kit. It worked really well and they were easy to connect and keep seperate from each other. I'm like 99% sure they are well connected. T-Bird 1 ghz@266 and my asus a7v133 mobo running win2k.
So i boot up and make sure its ok, it runs fine and i get into windows...
Reboot, go into bios and try 8x multi in jumper free mode. I have never updated this bios, its v.1.001c i think. I notice in the "notes" column it says that the cpu multiplier settings will only work for 1.04 motherboards and later.. WTF does this mean, do u need an updated bios to use the multiplier function on the a7v133's?
Well i exit and save changes and the cpu boots at 1000 mhz.. i wait until i get into windows and check the multi on sisoft sandra, it lists it as 7.5! So i reboot, go into bios and the multi says 8.5!!! Im like wtf, so i exit leaving it as 8.5 and reboot. Computer boots at 1000 mhz again, so i go right back into bios and it says 7.5 again! I finish a boot into windows then shut down. I boot, go into bios and try 9x, this is when my cpu refused to boot... Eventually i cleared the cmos and booted up at teh default 750 mhz and now im back to square one. I simply wanna be able to change the multi's
Before i try anything else im wondering if there's some simple thing im missing.. I left the voltage settings on auto.. Any ideas would be appreciated before i give this AXIA another go.

el
05-14-01, 04:15 PM
you could send me the chip for a month or two and I'll test her out for you!!!

7.5x133 is what you are starting with! try going 6x133 to see if this works if it doesn't you will have to close those bad boys again. I don't know how easy that is with the defogger kit as I have only used the conductive pen. Good luck and underclock it to check the L1's that way there are no other issues.

flashfx
05-14-01, 05:43 PM
People why do you all use this crazy crap to connect the bridges just do the easiest thing and pull out a pencil and do it nobody i know has had problems with that!

Oni
05-14-01, 06:07 PM
You MUST set your motherboard to JumperFree to be able to change the multipliers in the BIOS. Look in your manual in the DIP Switch settings to find out how to do it. Its really simple. Good luck.

dimitri
05-15-01, 12:26 AM
Ya, its in jumper free mode. I tried redoing the bridges, same problem. I tried underclocking at 7x 133 and it dosent post, needs a cmos clear to run bios at default. Updated my bios. Only thing i havent tried is taking the voltage off auto and setting it in bios, suggestions???

dimitri
05-16-01, 06:04 PM
Well, i finally got my chip unlocked today, only prob is i also noticed that the core was CHIPPED! I was almost in shock, the mofo super orb killed it even though i was extremely careful abt pressure... Somehow, the gods intervened and my chip runs, i wonder if this has shortened its lifespan though :( On the bright side, finally getting it unlocked is sweet, booted np in 9 x 133 and benched some apps. I kinda realize there's no way im RMA'ing a chipped core, ive seen the zillions of posts, i guess im just lucky it runs..
The ups and downs of ocing :/

moleman
05-16-01, 06:19 PM
just use the switches, and see if that works.

dimitri
05-16-01, 07:12 PM
im running at 8.5 x 133 right now, so the L1's are unlocked :) Been fooling around and getting great results so far. I plan to take this oc slow, im benching and recording various stats. My only worry at this point is the fact that at some point i chipped a small piece off the edge of my core, it runs, but now theres that naggin feeling this could lead to instability..
When all is said and done, im happy to have finally unlocked the multipliers and that my chip appears to be running trouble free..
I finally solved my problem by using a magnifying glass and the defogger paint using the technique from the oc.com beginners guides. My first couple tries, i had used a pin instead of a tiny jewler' s flat head screwdriver with a lil blob of paint at the end. I did a good job as i have steady hands :)
The next time i remove my heatsink will be the last, i plan to replace this super orb asap and as far as im concerned they shouldnt even be sold, too dangerous...

William
05-16-01, 09:10 PM
this should serve as yet another warning of why not to get an orb. They break way to many cpus. Also, it should also serve people to get a $10 insurance policy, a non-conductive shim to ensure your core cant be cracked.

dimitri
05-16-01, 11:51 PM
I completely agree dunno. When i was buying my rig, i got impatient and bought the HSF at the same place i got my other stuff cuz it was so cheap. How wrong i was. The one thing you don't want to skimp on when ocing the tbirds is cooling !
I learned the hard way :(
I have my case open and a powerful fan aimed at the mobo/cpu/agp. I idle around 46 c and hit 53 c at max.. Seems standard for my setup from what ive read.
Once again, I advise against buying a Super Orb HSF as these things are seriously dangerous to the core of the tbirds.
God i feel lucky :) Tomorrow i go for 1.4 :)