Duron 850 Multiplier change...yeah, right

[Kev]

Recently, having purchased a cheap mobo (Gigabyte 7IXE4) and a Duron 850, i thought i could get a have decent speed computer for a low price....i was wrong......my motherboard only allows changing the FSB...no multiplier jumpers, switches or bios settings...so i stumbled on the sugesitons of many websites saying that i could cut and join the L6 bridges of my Duron instead. I joined all L1 bridges, then changeed the L6 bridges from 8.5 to 9.5 ...the FSB was kept at 100 as anything higher is unstable. I switched the comp on and it wouldnt boot up...i had to change it back to 850...which worked again, thankfully..........my point is......am i going in the right direction, and if so, what do i need to do additionally to make this multiplier change thing work, aside from buying a new motherboard of course!

[Wega!]

Sucks!

[Kev]

i know!!!!! and theres bound to me someone out there who can help

[JaY_III]

if you dont want to get anew motherboard that alows changing of the multiplier wha other option do you have? looks like you are doing the only thing you can with your current setup

[Kev]

hmm...makes me wanna cry.....SURELY theres a way around it......ill just hope some wanders into this forum and solves my problems........... :¬(

[Wega!]

Kev (May 25, 2001 04:21 p.m.):
hmm...makes me wanna cry.....SURELY theres a way around it......ill just hope some wanders into this forum and solves my problems........... :¬(

Sorry, I don't understand what ur problem is?
Are u asking about which motherboards that allow changing the multiplier?

[!-=sky=-!]

u can change bridges on the cpu to change multiplier
really complicated and dangerous process because u might have to cut the bridges and that really hard

one BIG problem--i dunno where exactly in tomshardware.com tells u how to change it but i know it works for sure

[DE]

Kev (May 25, 2001 04:21 p.m.):
hmm...makes me wanna cry.....SURELY theres a way around it......ill just hope some wanders into this forum and solves my problems........... :¬(

You can cut the traces on the motherboard to alter the mult. setting coming in and out of the chip. Then you install your own jumpers. There was an article at Tom's as well as on a couple of other sites detailing this.

[mrpcman]

but if your not good with soldering, you'll most likely destroy your board.

[Kev]

oh ****E! ...hmm...if any of you misunderstood, i'll explain.....i can change the multiplier on the CPU and it wont post. I have closed the L1 bridges, which is necessary for overclocking a Duron. So what else can i do to change the multiplier....Tom's hardware gose on and on...its way too difficult......there's no, and i repeat, NO jumpers or DIP switches or BIOS settings to change the multiplier on the motherboard. Maybe im going in the right direction of overclocking the multiplier by closing the L6 bridges on my Duron 850, but maybe i have to do something to the mobo then...hmmm...its really a cheeky little task i have on my hands....its beats the regular overclocking any day...it's TRUE overclocking...you suckers just change it in the BIOS..oh! what an easy life!.......so er.....does anyone understand my ways of thought now? ...maybe i have to close/cut even more bridges on the Duron..im OK doing this as i did it to fiddle with the voltage to stabilize my FSB overclocking, which however, sucks compared to multiplier overclocking...definitely not as stable. I know there are geniuses out there with a bulging brain big enough to satisfy my overclocking needs. .....and before you say it.......IM NOT BUYING A NEW MOTHERBOARD!!!


....it really is a fetching story......

[n2]

yea...
you can get one of them nifty Dremel "cut-off" fiberglass disks...
and then like... pick some bridges... and uh... cut em open...
please do post back with your results on this one...
or you could use needlenose pliers... and uh... pull off a few of them 462 pins, cuz we all know you need only 370 right!
if you need guides to look at, Toms hardware has pictures, you ain't gotta read it.
if any or all of that fails... then ya probly gotsta get a new mainboard...
or at least a daughtercard!

did i mention my aching brain-bulge yet???
post back after you do the dremel trick tho..... :)

[n2]

no, i'm not serious.
but in all honesty, you need to study more if you can't get the jist of tom's guides.
they really are not that difficult at all. patience is more important than bragging rights... cuz you won't be so cool bragging about a dead chip, right? theres alot you just hafta absorb here, and i mean alot! i'm not even someone who should be saying this, but since the "vets" are'nt, i will.
i read the front page everyday, find new articles all the time, learn new stuff..
Constantly!
and you really need to watch your language, profanity is not allowed in here.
if Daniel <moderator & forum God> catches ya, as he surely will,
you'll hear it worse if not get booted. swearing is against the commandments,
(also note: cross-posting, warez or hacking discussion, posting in the wrong topic, posting links to YOUR site, porn, and ANYTHING illegal, basically will get ppl fuming'... just to let ya know :) )

i say this cuz i've read all your posts<42>, and they are'nt kid friendly!
the f word really does'nt need to be used, ***'s or otherwise.
i'm positive you have a larger vocabulary than what i've seen, so please :)

i'm sure everyone will be more helpfull, if you could be more respectfull.
hope you take this constructively, i'm not trying to insult you, just help you have a better experience here.
Peace!

[Kev]

sorry guys - it's just the heat of the moment. I have exams which stress me, and all of this Duron overclocking thing...well....its exciting and all, but it sure does ache my head!.....anyway...........ive been to Tom's Hardware site and followed ALL instructions and successfully found a picture showing all necessary changes required for the L6, L3, L4 bridges on the Duron for certain clock speeds desired....however, after successfully joining and cutting the bridges (with a high grade graphite pen and a razor blade), the computer wouldn't post....i swith it back to 850Mhz settings on the three L bridges and it posts......hmmm....whats stopping it guys....?....its one helluva cheeky little number! ....is this hardcore overclocking or what?!


...again, cheers for ya help.

[n2]

for what it's worth... maybe not much?
i have read that the bridges can be decieving. what i mean is... you really need a magnifyer to see that there is indeed "true" closure.
and if there isn't, it certainly won't wanna post. could also be a "stray" pencil mark joining two. tho this may sound a bit absurd, i have, indeed, read of ppl doing this, so check it out very closely.

aside from that, i really need more clarification to help you, or at least try.
for the record, i have not done much with my chip yet, as i need better cooling. i'm reaching near 48* at 1.63v @700 stock when running only MBM5 and IE6.0
i want this fixed like NOW!
i have a big ol' sanyo deniki 120mm and two 60mm and my thermaltake hsk/f on this sucker, and it barely budges the temps!

so, try this...
check the L1for good connections, go back to stock voltage, multiplyer and FSB settings. then slowly!!!! bump just the FSB till you get no post, then back up a click. write all your info down at each step, to avoid doing the same thing twice <trust me>
once you are at the highest FSB that allows windoze, run some stuff, watch your temps, keep stock voltage, run more stuff, play some games, keep your EYE on TEMPS... when (if) she rises, you'll see the point of instability most likely. i think the temps may be holding you back, honestly. but try this and we'll see... use Mobo Monitor 5 and your BIOS for temps, also sandra is good too... if ya compare the three, you have a solid idea, and can gauge accordingly.
put your RAM <is it seated good?> at cas3 and make sure it is not fsb +33 or any other overclocked settings... play with ram after the chip, ok. it can cause probs, so keep it slow for now. keep everything slow! you want only the chip to be workin' here... tweaked settings can/could be too much of a combo.. follow me?

so, get back to me with some results!!!
do you understand your bios settings? if theres some confusion, just ask.
i can only try to help, but i know others will too, maybe someone has your board out there :) good luck!

[Kev]

cheers mate, you're a star...ill try checking the bridges, but ive already taken the heatsink off about 60 times. There is no special options for the ram in the bios...it has no sexy SoftMenu like the Abit and Asus mobos etc. ...when i did the bridge joining, it WAS perfect. i cant imagine itd be all that. maybe it is..i shouldnt think so though....as for the FSB, well...ive got the FSB at 105 as opposed to default 100, but its too unstable...i have to leave it at 100, maybe ge it to 102, so i need this multiplier change....ok...ill try ONCE more...ill try now and ill check THOROUGHLY the bridges, put the FSB at 100 and somehow lower the ram speed right?

[n2]

Kev (May 27, 2001 06:59 a.m.):
cheers mate, you're a star...ill try checking the bridges, but ive already taken the heatsink off about 60 times. There is no special options for the ram in the bios...it has no sexy SoftMenu like the Abit and Asus mobos etc. ...when i did the bridge joining, it WAS perfect. i cant imagine itd be all that. maybe it is..i shouldnt think so though....as for the FSB, well...ive got the FSB at 105 as opposed to default 100, but its too unstable...i have to leave it at 100, maybe ge it to 102, so i need this multiplier change....ok...ill try ONCE more...ill try now and ill check THOROUGHLY the bridges, put the FSB at 100 and somehow lower the ram speed right?

now, from here out, lets keep to this thread... easier to keep up :)

ok, ya gotta check bridges! LOL it's important.
in the little cracks around the dots, you can miss by like a hairline! thats where the magnifyer comes into play.
is your RAM PC100? therein may be a problem, that stuff just may not go!
if you can get some PNY or Kingston from a compusa or a bestbuy? it may solve the prob. maybe its one of your cards, like the vid or modem?
when you O/C the cpu bus, you also O/C pci & agp slots.

hsk/fan... is it flat? do you have it tight? and is it lapped like a mirror?
man, i hope theres no chips on the durons core!!! 60x isn't really good, just be carefull, these things bust easy.

all that considered, try a different multiplyer number with the FSB at 100 then try 102 on that mult.#... write down what you try, too. as soon as you fail to post, jump back as quick as possible to check the temps in BIOS to see if they went up...

i need a few hours of sleep, but i'll be back to check up on your results later on.. best of luck!

if all this fails, multiplyer at stock, raise voltage up one or two clicks, then try the FSB again.. little at a time..and REALLY watch temps. over 50* isn't good, i guess??? takes 90* to kill it, DEAD ... don't hit 70* IMO cuz ratings are usually not so accurate in my experience.
<i don't think my windoze likes it above 50*.. stability suffers... so far>
Peace!
you want the FSB to overclock, not the multiplyer.. i try to avoid mult. as much as possible as the fsb is where you get the good boost.

[Kev]

i know that FSB helps boost the system, but it makes it more unstable than changing the multiplier.....anyway...my results...........ive tried both overclocking and overclocking the chips bridges, but with no luck (believe me, i spent time with a magnifying glass)...the max i tried was 10.5, but also tried 9 and 9.5 ...with no luck...i also tried underclocking by trying 7.5 and 7 ....still, no luck...........what happens is that the computers does switch on, but then the monitor just flashes green (not normal for booting) and the system fan doesn't spin...if i put i back to 850Mhz, the system fan is back on!...the CPU fan is on no matter what ....i thought this could be due to a voltage problem, but i tried both low and high CPU voltages, with no luck.....it seems like my Duron doesnt WANT to be bridgely overclocked...what all this talk about motherboard 'modding' ....it seems that no matter i do to the Duron, changing the multilier on it will just not work........cheers, and ciao for now!

[opie]

look dude, why are you messing with that board?, you can get an asus a7v133 for around 150.00. just save your money and buy one. I know about the gigabyte board. I USED to have one. That is why i changed to the asus a7v133. All i had to do is close the l1 bridges and it worked. Hell im at 997 with a 9.5x105fsb. my voltage is at 1.70. I know sometimes money can be a hard thing to come by, but the time u are investing in this is not paying off what so ever. So my suggestion is just save your money and buy a REAL motherbard.

[Kev]

so what am i gonna do with my old one?...i cant take it back, so maybe i could auction it?

[n2]

you cannot get windoze at any FSB & voltage combo?
forgetting about the multiplier? i don't care whats "said" to be stable or not! the fact is... you can <should> quite EASILY be able to raise the FSB to 112 with no other mods, if you cannot, theres a problem.

something has to be wrong. and i'd point at either the RAM or the vid card and coincidentally, you've given me no info on either :)

if you are positive that the bridges are properly connected, and theres no chips to the proc itself.... than it's time to investigate... seems the culprit lies elsewhere.
however, you also have'nt told me your temps... if that chip is too hot at initial start, it might not boot.

and further, i'd remove all but the HDD, FDD, Vid, RAM, and the CD.
get rid of the modem, and anything else, sound etc...
change the vid cards slot. change the ram slot. check those bios settings.
if it won't post at 1.85v 112fsb... i'd change the vid card and the ram to something better, AGP vid & PC133 Ram, i'm betting herein lies your problem.

i'm also not even convinced that the system is running right at stock speeds.
if it ain't, she won't go higher anyhow.

as far as the mobo goes, it's always good to have a spare. how much did you pay for that thing? the iWill KK266 is $115.00 at newegg.com shipped.

and if you fail to post details other than that damned multiplier... how am i supposed to tell you anything other than "screw that multiplier"?

[Kev]

so is that iWill any good?...isnt it a waste cos the Duron is 200, but the board goes upto 266....hmmm.......i have a Voodoo 3 2000 and 256 of PC100 ram....i did try it with 256 cube ram too, but still didnt work, so it isnt the RAM.....i think ill get a new mobo....this (excuse my language) stupid F***ing gigabyte ****e is doing my head (i know i swore, but honestly, if you ownded it, you'd feel like i do!)......what can you suggest as a new mobo? .....i need ATA100(cos im getting a new HD), x4 AGP(cos im getting a new vid card), supports 133MhzRAM, supports 200 FSB Durons, supports 133 FSB ....is there a card that has all this....INCLUDING friggin' FSB and MULTIPLIERS SWITCHES/BIOS SETTINGS???????? id be glad of any suggestions.....i may just bin this mobo...unless you want it

[n2]

my iWill KK266-R does in fact, have all your desired options and features.
and also RAID, which is a config for HDD to increase performance by writing on two drives... also can be used to have two identical drives, or to boot from either of two different OS's.
this board set me back 140. from newegg
i paid for 2day shipping, $10, it was 130 shipped reg.

ya, send me your board! i'd appreciate another rig crunching #'s for folding!!

200 for durons is correct. is it overkill to have 266?
ask yourself this... "what if i buy an Athlon?"
now, you'd want a new board, had you not the foresight to buy the best choice from the start right?
that's where a little homework pays off alot, and i looked over all the choices before i bought this, and i'm really happy with my choice.
whether you need RAID.. well, someday you might have another HDD and then you could have that feature there for it... otherwise, you save $15 skipping it. thats six of one, half dozen of the other.

that RAM should do 112fsb no problem, i've had PC100generic higher than that. the vid card really isn't too bad, i'll take that too :)
i really hate to think it's just the board that prevents you from getting any higher, but maybe that is the case? perhaps it has a problem <defect>?

in my opinion, speaking from probably a worse budget than you got, the iWill board seemed the ultimate choice for me. the KT133A chipset seems the best choice for AMD's out there nowadays.

plus, check out www.fullon3d.com for the kk266 faq
amazing the info there on this board.

peace!

[n2]

and check this out... just found it in a thread..
http://www.xbitlabs.com/cpu/duron-oc.html
kinda cool.

[Kev]

cheers...that site is excellent....ive decided on the KT7A ...:¬) ..bout time i get a decent mobo...all my troubles will be over

[n2]

good decision in my book. i hope that indeed, it will end your troubles.

i just picked up a window defroster repair kit... gonna do the chip right, all nice and neat :)
now i need to order a top-notch cooling solution...
saw some nice tranny coolers today :)

[Kev]

Nice one........so if i close the L1 bridges on my Duron, and because the mobo has a 133 BUS, will the clock frequency instantly be 1130.5Mhz, without doing anything? ...obviously id have to lower the multiplier to maybe 7.5 so it would be 7.5 x 133 = 997.5Mhz ...which will show up as a gigahertz probably .......will it work like this.....or will i have to actually up the FSB to 133.....its all confusing going from a 100FSB mobo to a 133FSB mobo ....am i right in understanding that the PCI BUS speed goes back to default of 33 when the FSB of the board is at 133 ?? ......numbers, numbers, NUMBERS!!

Will i happily be able to change the clock frequency and FSB in the bios on the Abit KT7A motherboard?

......ive seen the light............



.....i think the moral of this thread is 'Buy cheap, buy twice".

[n2]

Kev (May 29, 2001 05:42 a.m.):
Nice one........so if i close the L1 bridges on my Duron, and because the mobo has a 133 BUS, will the clock frequency instantly be 1130.5Mhz, without doing anything? ...obviously id have to lower the multiplier to maybe 7.5 so it would be 7.5 x 133 = 997.5Mhz ...which will show up as a gigahertz probably .......will it work like this.....or will i have to actually up the FSB to 133.....its all confusing going from a 100FSB mobo to a 133FSB mobo

no, the board has a jumper on it, which gives you the option of 100/133

....am i right in understanding that the PCI BUS speed goes back to default of 33 when the FSB of the board is at 133 ?? ......numbers, numbers,
NUMBERS!!

umm... that sounds bout right... when hittin' jumper to 133 the system should think AGP, RAM, and PCI bus is stock speed. However, in my manual theres no referrence to the changes made. i'd check the iWill faq for the answers... might be in the settings tho...for example
in addition to the fsb jumper, i have one for the VIO and PCI compatibility settings... however what i have, and what YOU'LL have are different, since you're looking for answers re: Abit... and i don't have one.
i have a RAM clk adj. gives me FSB same as CPU or +33 or -33mhz in the bios

Will i happily be able to change the clock frequency and FSB in the bios on the Abit KT7A motherboard?

i would only assume you can. i have no experience with that board, but i've heard good things. when i had the option of buying either from newegg,
i took the iWill over Abit

......ive seen the light............



.....i think the moral of this thread is 'Buy cheap, buy twice".

[Kev]

bump