Lets c if you can solve this one....

[Lunchbox!]

I have an AMD 1.33GHz T-rbird
256 MB Crucial DDR pc2100 ram
iwill KA266-R motherboard
voodoo 5 5500 agp video card
Maxtor Diamondmax ata100 40 gig HDD
U.S. Robotics 56k v.90 fax/pci modem
4 case fans 80 mm a piece, 2 pull/2push
antec 300 watt psu
antec sx1030B case
and a 'sorry' Coolermaster heatsink
My question to you is, "Why won't my system post?"
I have tried everything I know to do.
I have returned the old cpu once, the ram once, changed video cards, turned off all fans except the heatsink, reseated everything 50 times, cleared the cmos several times, set the jumpers to default and lower, changed the fsb several ways, changed the monitor, and much much more....My HSF has arctic silver 2 underneath it in a thin (paper-thin) layer, and the heatsink that crushed the last cpu, or so I thought, is not putting to much pressure on the cpu, because I modified the retention clip with some needle nose pliers. So what oh what could be my problem? I am getting absolutely no output on the screen, and it doesn't beep when I first boot. Yes the speaker is plugged in properly! HEEEEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!

[AKDUDE]

Hmm, you didn't mention swapping out your MOBO or your powersupply ;).

IF you GET NOTHING when you first hit the switch, either you are not getting power.. (LED lighting up??) or you have a dead board.

One of the things I was thinking when you listed what you had is that maybe you don't have enough power? Maybe the PS died? The Voodoo5 card draws 30 watts along, plus your case fans, and the 1.33gig athlon adds up. However, Antec powersupplys are among the best, and you did say you tried another vid card.

Don't suppose you have another board to test all this stuff on do you?>
AKDUDE

[Ridenow]

First thing you should do when you are testing for a problem like this is remove all the extras. Pull all the cards except the video, disconect all the drives. Now if your fans run then your power supply is working, if not then you have a bad power supply. Then try testing your processor in another computer, either find a friend that will let you do this or most computer stores will do this for you. If the processor POSTs then you probably have a bad motherboard. If by chance your computer POSTs just fine then one of the cards you removed is causing a problem. Then you can put them in one at a time so you can figure out which one is bad.

[Lunchbox!]

Ridenow (Jun 14, 2001 01:31 p.m.):
First thing you should do when you are testing for a problem like this is remove all the extras. Pull all the cards except the video, disconect all the drives. Now if your fans run then your power supply is working, if not then you have a bad power supply. Then try testing your processor in another computer, either find a friend that will let you do this or most computer stores will do this for you. If the processor POSTs then you probably have a bad motherboard. If by chance your computer POSTs just fine then one of the cards you removed is causing a problem. Then you can put them in one at a time so you can figure out which one is bad.I apologize, I meant to include that in my first post. I have removed all the cards in the case, and still nothing. Not to be mean, but I did say that I tried changing the grafx card already. I replaced it with some good ol' agp(hehe) and still nothing. All the fans spin, and all the lights come on. No I don't have a friend to let me test the cpu, and I live in wichita falls texas. The closest thing to a computer store around here is an office depot! I would be in luck since I'm a computer technician in the air force if the corporate domination of intel weren't amidst us. Unfortunately we just wasted 1.4 million dollars on p3 systems, 4hundred or so to b exact. Not an AMD in sight. Can you guys please tell some more people about my problem, I have been tryn to fix this thing for 2 months now, and every time I post about it, like 2 people respond, and have good ideas, but don't help me much...I have nothing to do now, except send back the motherboard. Or maybe the processor again. But I don't think they're gonna return me a new one since it's out of warranty. I called iwill support, and the guy said if it didn't beep that it had to be thye motherboard ram or processor. So I guess I'm kinda out of luck. Please help me if you can.

[harderclock]

are you sure 300 watts of power supply is good enough for all those fans and the voodoo 5

[SPLEEN]

when you where trying al of these different configs, is the system board give you any type of beeps? Some boards will let you know if it cant detect ram or a vid card, or a proc. This is a new system? The board could be toast or the power supply is toast. try those things out to see if it will notice anything missing!!

[bootme]

Lunchbox! (Jun 14, 2001 03:54 p.m.):
Ridenow (Jun 14, 2001 01:31 p.m.):
First thing you should do when you are testing for a problem like this is remove all the extras. Pull all the cards except the video, disconect all the drives. Now if your fans run then your power supply is working, if not then you have a bad power supply. Then try testing your processor in another computer, either find a friend that will let you do this or most computer stores will do this for you. If the processor POSTs then you probably have a bad motherboard. If by chance your computer POSTs just fine then one of the cards you removed is causing a problem. Then you can put them in one at a time so you can figure out which one is bad.I apologize, I meant to include that in my first post. I have removed all the cards in the case, and still nothing. Not to be mean, but I did say that I tried changing the grafx card already. I replaced it with some good ol' agp(hehe) and still nothing. All the fans spin, and all the lights come on. No I don't have a friend to let me test the cpu, and I live in wichita falls texas. The closest thing to a computer store around here is an office depot! I would be in luck since I'm a computer technician in the air force if the corporate domination of intel weren't amidst us. Unfortunately we just wasted 1.4 million dollars on p3 systems, 4hundred or so to b exact. Not an AMD in sight. Can you guys please tell some more people about my problem, I have been tryn to fix this thing for 2 months now, and every time I post about it, like 2 people respond, and have good ideas, but don't help me much...I have nothing to do now, except send back the motherboard. Or maybe the processor again. But I don't think they're gonna return me a new one since it's out of warranty. I called iwill support, and the guy said if it didn't beep that it had to be thye motherboard ram or processor. So I guess I'm kinda out of luck. Please help me if you can.


Since you don't get any beeps at all, it's usually the processor only, but that doesn't really mean that your cpu is fried for you can usually tell by the burn mark on the bottom of the cpu or simply the smell. I don't know if your board has the options for jumper mode and jumper free mode. I would take a close
look at that since it's possible that it's in jumper mode and the jumpers may be improperly set. The other thing you can do is to turn the pc on while your cmos batterie is out of the board completely, then reinstall batterie and start over. The desperate measure is to remove the board out of the case completely and try running the system while out of the case because I have heard of incident where a problem with bad ground can cause your type of problem. I hope this help.......

[bootme]

Lunchbox! (Jun 14, 2001 11:46 a.m.):
I have an AMD 1.33GHz T-rbird
256 MB Crucial DDR pc2100 ram
iwill KA266-R motherboard
voodoo 5 5500 agp video card
Maxtor Diamondmax ata100 40 gig HDD
U.S. Robotics 56k v.90 fax/pci modem
4 case fans 80 mm a piece, 2 pull/2push
antec 300 watt psu
antec sx1030B case
and a 'sorry' Coolermaster heatsink
My question to you is, "Why won't my system post?"
I have tried everything I know to do.
I have returned the old cpu once, the ram once, changed video cards, turned off all fans except the heatsink, reseated everything 50 times, cleared the cmos several times, set the jumpers to default and lower, changed the fsb several ways, changed the monitor, and much much more....My HSF has arctic silver 2 underneath it in a thin (paper-thin) layer, and the heatsink that crushed the last cpu, or so I thought, is not putting to much pressure on the cpu, because I modified the retention clip with some needle nose pliers. So what oh what could be my problem? I am getting absolutely no output on the screen, and it doesn't beep when I first boot. Yes the speaker is plugged in properly! HEEEEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!

This is bootme again. According to the following features I found on the web about your board, it seems like 1.2ghz is the top speed for your board, so
having a 1.33ghz cpu on that board means you are already in overclocking land and that you should act accordingly. I would start by trying combinations like 100mhz fsb with 13.0X multip. or vice versa 133 fsb with 10.0x multip. Good luck from bootme.



Iwill KA266-R: Key Features

FSBs: 100, 101, 102, 103, 105, 107, 110, 120, 126, 133, 136, 137, 140, 142, 146
Multiplier Settings: Dipswitch, 5x to 12.5x
FSB Settings: BIOS or Jumpers
DDR RAM Slots: 3 - up to 3 GB
VCore Adjustment: NO
Asynchronous RAM Settings: NO
CPU Temp Monitoring: Thermistor in Socket A
Fan Headers: 3
CPU Speeds Supported: 650 to 1200 MHz
Drives: On Board RAID
Accept SDRAM: NO, DDR Only

[GRiMMi]

How exactly did you get this problem ? Might be relevant.. Did it never work at all ? Or...?

[Fiz]

I had an FIC AZ11E with the same prob, I would turn it on, all fans and lights and drives would come to life, but no video. I had to take the whole thing out of the case, then I went over it inch by inch with airduster and a lint free cloth. I cleaned all of the contacts on my cards then put it all back in and all was well. Good luck, sorry to hear about all of the trouble(and all those p3's at work :) )

Fiz

[Lunchbox!]

bootme (Jun 17, 2001 04:33 a.m.):
Lunchbox! (Jun 14, 2001 11:46 a.m.):
I have an AMD 1.33GHz T-rbird
256 MB Crucial DDR pc2100 ram
iwill KA266-R motherboard
voodoo 5 5500 agp video card
Maxtor Diamondmax ata100 40 gig HDD
U.S. Robotics 56k v.90 fax/pci modem
4 case fans 80 mm a piece, 2 pull/2push
antec 300 watt psu
antec sx1030B case
and a 'sorry' Coolermaster heatsink
My question to you is, "Why won't my system post?"
I have tried everything I know to do.
I have returned the old cpu once, the ram once, changed video cards, turned off all fans except the heatsink, reseated everything 50 times, cleared the cmos several times, set the jumpers to default and lower, changed the fsb several ways, changed the monitor, and much much more....My HSF has arctic silver 2 underneath it in a thin (paper-thin) layer, and the heatsink that crushed the last cpu, or so I thought, is not putting to much pressure on the cpu, because I modified the retention clip with some needle nose pliers. So what oh what could be my problem? I am getting absolutely no output on the screen, and it doesn't beep when I first boot. Yes the speaker is plugged in properly! HEEEEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!

This is bootme again. According to the following features I found on the web about your board, it seems like 1.2ghz is the top speed for your board, so
having a 1.33ghz cpu on that board means you are already in overclocking land and that you should act accordingly. I would start by trying combinations like 100mhz fsb with 13.0X multip. or vice versa 133 fsb with 10.0x multip. Good luck from bootme.



Iwill KA266-R: Key Features

FSBs: 100, 101, 102, 103, 105, 107, 110, 120, 126, 133, 136, 137, 140, 142, 146
Multiplier Settings: Dipswitch, 5x to 12.5x
FSB Settings: BIOS or Jumpers
DDR RAM Slots: 3 - up to 3 GB
VCore Adjustment: NO
Asynchronous RAM Settings: NO
CPU Temp Monitoring: Thermistor in Socket A
Fan Headers: 3
CPU Speeds Supported: 650 to 1200 MHz
Drives: On Board RAID
Accept SDRAM: NO, DDR Only

Hrmm...Do you think it's entirely incompatible?? If so, should I get another board or proc? This is a brand new system...To all the people that asked repetitous questions please read my previous posts..., But thanks for all your help guys...BTW, what do you think of the k7master

[castle lager fan]

Unfortunately I don't know the Iwill board. But try these steps.

1)Lets assume your mobo is fine and not busted.
2)Check your mobo manual to see if it tests for CPU HSF at startup. If so ensure that you have a fan connected to it that gives mobo feedback ie 3 wires connected and working.
3)Look at dip switches and jumpers on mobo. Make sure all auto settings are off! Check for jumpers that drains battery or resets BIOS that is still on.
4)Set multiplier and FSB settings manual to lowest settings on mobo ie 5 and 100. It might bring up your PC at 500MHz but at least you have a starting point.
5)Check Vcore and IO voltage settings. Set in to 1.75V and 3V(or 2.75 cant remember now) manual. This should help getting the board up.

Hope this helps and good luck. Sometimes we look for the difficult problems when the solution is simple. Maybe your board is bust, hope not.

[cadjack]

I have the exact same symtoms on my Iwill KK266R, with the same case and power supply. It worked fine for 5 weeks with a Duron 750@1000, and about the 25th time I changed HS/F units it started doing just what you describe. Everything seems to work, drives spin up, no post beep.

Luckily I had just bought another Duron, tried it, no change. It (the Duron)posted when I took it to the shop; I hate to say this but I had to RMA the mobo.

Hope you have a happier ending.

[bootme]

Iwill KA266-R: Key Features

FSBs: 100, 101, 102, 103, 105, 107, 110, 120, 126, 133, 136, 137, 140, 142, 146
Multiplier Settings: Dipswitch, 5x to 12.5x
FSB Settings: BIOS or Jumpers
DDR RAM Slots: 3 - up to 3 GB
VCore Adjustment: NO
Asynchronous RAM Settings: NO
CPU Temp Monitoring: Thermistor in Socket A
Fan Headers: 3
CPU Speeds Supported: 650 to 1200 MHz
Drives: On Board RAID
Accept SDRAM: NO, DDR Only[/quote]

Hrmm...Do you think it's entirely incompatible?? If so, should I get another board or proc? This is a brand new system...To all the people that asked repetitous questions please read my previous posts..., But thanks for all your help guys...BTW, what do you think of the k7master[/quote]

No I don't think it's entirely incompatible, but it may require superhuman patience until you find the right settings and then just remember your options are limited with this board. Before you change the board, you may want to try unlocking the 2 L1 bridges.


Some Info I found on Your board.... Please read..

Was it easy to set up? Well, yes and no. It’s not really any more difficult than setting up any other motherboard on a physical basis, but some of the nitty-gritty details are not so straightforward. For example, at first the KA266 wouldn’t recognize the Athlon 1200MHz we were using as 1200MHz; it would only recognize it as a 900MHz processor.
After consulting with an Iwill representative, I found out that there is a jumper, not mentioned in any of the documentation, that will set the DDR memory bus to 133MHz. By simply removing the jumper, the board changes its default to 133/133MHz and removes the need to set the speed manually in the BIOS. Hopefully, the manuals and other documentation will be fixed when the final product ships.

Overclocking in this system is pretty basic, with just the bus speed pairings to work with up to a maximum of 147/147MHz. There is currently no Vcore adjustment in the BIOS, but Iwill says that feature will be included in the final version of the shipping board. It’s hard to overclock correctly without it, that’s for sure.

Read the following carefully before buying the K7Master and check out my rec.. for the ASUS board, I think they are the most stable ever and still overclock well. Good luck....

This result was tied directly to the DDR SDRAM bus speed. As the board was shipped, it defaults at 100/100MHz for FSB and RAM. These speeds are tied together in pairs in the BIOS settings, and cannot be set separately. After confirming that the DIMM shipped with the board was PC2100 and could operate at 133MHz, I went into the BIOS to manually change the bus speeds to 133/133MHz for the FSB and the RAM clock. Since the Athlon was set for a 9x multiplier, it now ran at the proper 1200MHz speed. (Or if you want to get super-technical, 1197MHz.)

[bootme]

Read the following carefully before buying the K7Master and check out my rec.. for the ASUS board, I think they are the most stable ever and still overclock well. Good luck....

The GOOD:
- In the BIOS you can set the FSB (up to 150mhz), CPU multi and Vcore (up to 1.850).
- There is a jumper to JUST reset the FSB and Vcore.. very handy. System is very stable. Easily got the system running @ 150fsb.
- Also some nice mem tweaks, though like most DDR mobos, this seems to have no impact on the benches.
- Onboard sound can be shut off via a jumper.
- The North Bridge heatsink had thermal goop under it - which I still replaced with artic silver, but still it's a nice surprise... Either there's normally nothing or a crappy thermal pad (YUCK!).
- Now with version 1.1 of the K7 Master there is official support for 133MHz bus (266MHz PC2100 DDR).
- Nice thermal sensor. it comes up from under the cpu and makes contact with the chip... Still not as good as being inside the CPU, but better than the ones at the bottom of the socket.

The BAD:
- eh? it seems MSI just slapped the mobo in some extra server/workstation box they had around. "supports multi-processors..."
- The bios isn't at the level one would expect from a retail Mobo; It runs everything at 100MHz bus - you need to change the bus to 133/33 for it to run at 266MHz mode.
- Not being the K7 Master-S it doesn't have SCSI, but the SCSI settings are still in the BIOS.
- There are 2 Revisions of this board available...The VER:1 board and the VER:1.1 board. You have to be careful because the VER:1 board only supports 100MHz FSB (which means the 1.33GHz (266MHz FSB) WON'T work with this board)!
- Same with the onboard sound.. it still thinks it's there even if you use the jumper to shut it off.
- The CPU Multiplyer option is from the multi on your chip to 12.5 (underclocking option). So lowering the Multi and upping the FSB, if you can't get MHz out of the CPU, is the only option.
- The Cmos reset is between the PCI slots and the back of the case.. NO WAY to get there.
- Only 2 DIMM slots




And now for ASUS...


Asus A7A266 DDR Socket A ALI M1647 200/266 FSB ATX MB
Socket A AMD Athlon/Duron processors to 1.5+GHz
Chipset: ALi M1647 North Bridge and ALi M1535D+ South Bridge
200/266MHz Front Side Bus
2 unbuffered DIMMs with up to 2GB of PC1600/PC2100 DDR SDRAM
3 unbuffered DIMMs with up to 3GB of PC133 SDRAM
AGP Pro slot
5 PCI slots, 6 USB ports, 2 Serial and 1 Parallel ports
ATA/100
ATX Form Factor



asusa7a266$159.00

[Lunchbox!]

Wow, it has 5 dimm slots? or one or the other??
can you use them both at the same time? or is it a different model board for pc133 than pc2100??

[bootme]

I think it's either or because a computer can only do one thing at a time and that rule applies for everything. For example, if you install pc100 with pc133, it will default to the lowest speed as always. You Know what I mean? I still hope that you can get your CPU to post with current motherboard.

[William]

I am sorry, but it has to be the mobo. I went through a similar prob with an MSI mobo (of course I had the lovely Diagnostic Leds telling me what wasn't working). Ultimately I had gotten a board with a bad bios so i just RMA'd it and got a new one. Gotta love those LEDs for times like this.

[plague]

just to let you know i have the a7a266 and the manual specifically says you cannot mix ddr with sdr dimms. good board though, and the newer versions come with clock multiplier dipswitches, one of the main reasons it was getting bad reviews when it first came out was the lack of these.

[crunch]

If its a NEW system, the MB could be shorted to the case. You can try removing the MB and running it outside the case if you place it on a non-conductive surface. I have used the cardboard box the MB came in to test outside the case. A shorted MB will cause a no beep, no post situation

[Stanman]

I have seen power supplys that would spin the fans and everything else, but the cpu core voltage did not work. TRY another power supply to make sure.
I did not read all your details above but double check clear-cmos jumper position. Good Luck

[Lunchbox!]

Thank you for all your suggestions, I am gonna try the grounded motherboard fix when I get home. If that doesn't work, then I will probably buy a new mobo...I am open for suggestions on that topic...

[KATOOMER]

Lunchbox! (Jun 14, 2001 11:46 a.m.):
I have an AMD 1.33GHz T-rbird
256 MB Crucial DDR pc2100 ram
iwill KA266-R motherboard
voodoo 5 5500 agp video card
Maxtor Diamondmax ata100 40 gig HDD
U.S. Robotics 56k v.90 fax/pci modem
4 case fans 80 mm a piece, 2 pull/2push
antec 300 watt psu
antec sx1030B case
and a 'sorry' Coolermaster heatsink
My question to you is, "Why won't my system post?"
I have tried everything I know to do.
I have returned the old cpu once, the ram once, changed video cards, turned off all fans except the heatsink, reseated everything 50 times, cleared the cmos several times, set the jumpers to default and lower, changed the fsb several ways, changed the monitor, and much much more....My HSF has arctic silver 2 underneath it in a thin (paper-thin) layer, and the heatsink that crushed the last cpu, or so I thought, is not putting to much pressure on the cpu, because I modified the retention clip with some needle nose pliers. So what oh what could be my problem? I am getting absolutely no output on the screen, and it doesn't beep when I first boot. Yes the speaker is plugged in properly! HEEEEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!

power supply too small see new recamendations
http://cluboverclocker.com go too 1.4 t-bird on index page
guarentee thats the problem

[Lunchbox!]

I'll try it...