Ideas for mounting Dtek WW w/ IHS removed

I want to take the IHS off my p4 but I believe that to do so would keep it from making full contact w/ the white water using the dtek provided mounting plate. I thought of using some very thin washers if I could find some instead of the nuts that go between the plate and the motherboard. I emailed Dtek asking them and am still awaiting a reply. Any of you guys have some other ideas?

PM Cathar and see if he has any P4 adapter plates, the one that goes on top of the block which eliminates the need for the D-Tek adapter. Not sure if the block will make contact with the D-Tek plate.

nikhsub1 said:

PM Cathar and see if he has any P4 adapter plates, the one that goes on top of the block which eliminates the need for the D-Tek adapter. Not sure if the block will make contact with the D-Tek plate.

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I already did, he said the dtek holes are in a a slightly different spot so the plates for the old WW's wouldn't help

I read a post in here yesterday I think. The guy put the P4 adaptor on top the block instead of under like it should be. You could try that and see if it works.

Klownin79 said:

I read a post in here yesterday I think. The guy put the P4 adaptor on top the block instead of under like it should be. You could try that and see if it works.

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I don't see how this would be possible. The plate uses some unusual screws that are tapered at the head and use an allen wrench instead of a standard or phillips screwdriver. They are also very short and would not even reach the 4 mounting holes to secure it to the motherboard if the plate were on top.

If you're still having trouble with this, it's perfectly possible to use the existing P4 mounting plate you have as a "hold down" of sorts. I know one other person in these forums who set his up like that; mine is also set up like this. Mine was accidently though due to user error *cough*



Basically I put the threaded rods through the holes in the motherboard where the P4 heatsink cradle plastic thing used to be. It works fine (CPU load 33C IHS not removed, excuse the monster tubing )

Just as a side note while I was setting things up I experimented by using it on my old Maze 2 block, it worked fine for that too

That's interesting. The waterblock doesn't rock or tilt or anything? I'm a bit worried that if I take the IHS off and there is any such rocking motion it might chip the core. Guess I'll experiment w/ it when I take this chip out. BTW, here's the response I received from Dtek.

We cannot really support taking the heat spreader off because most will destroy their CPUs and hate us if we told them too, but you can easily use washers instead of the black nylon nuts to space the adapter if it does not clear. We do have plans to revise the adapter after this next batch so maybe we will improvise something for this.

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Hey SoulEdge, I was thinking about doing the same thing with my WW, I tried to put those micro nuts that it came with since those are thinner than the black nylon nuts that's currently used for the adapter. The only problem I ran into probably because of my motherboard (Abit IC7 Max3) is that the adapter hits two modules of some type that are on the outer edge of the adapter, so even without the black nuts or even with a washer, it wouldn't work for me. Hope you don't have any parts of the motherboard that might get in the way of the adapter.

Yea, that's another consideration. Even if it doesn't appear to be touching anything, the plate will definitely sit close to the mobo which raises the possibility of causing a short.

Well I've had mine like this for quite a few weeks now without any problems, but then again I never removed the IHS. I think so long as you mount it first outside of the case that should make it easier/less likely to rock around. Mine did slide around a bit as I put it on but I did so with the motherboard inside the case (made things difficult for myself lol) - however, several weeks later and no problems, excellent temps!

If it's any help, I put the threaded bars through the holes where the old P4 cradle used to be, used the small nuts on both sides of the motherboard to make sure they were fairly rigid and slid the whole lot down over the chip. I then tightened the brass thumb screws diagonally to minimise rocking/uneven pressure.

sbud said:

Hey SoulEdge, I was thinking about doing the same thing with my WW, I tried to put those micro nuts that it came with since those are thinner than the black nylon nuts that's currently used for the adapter. The only problem I ran into probably because of my motherboard (Abit IC7 Max3) is that the adapter hits two modules of some type that are on the outer edge of the adapter, so even without the black nuts or even with a washer, it wouldn't work for me. Hope you don't have any parts of the motherboard that might get in the way of the adapter.

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I read somewhere someone was having problems shorting their board out, they overcame it by placing tape over the affected area so the adapter wasn't touching any part of the motherboard. You could just insulate/tape the adapter alternatively I guess, so if you don't want to try what I did that might work instead