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WW still works!

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Jibby

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2003
im here to testify that it is possible to get a ****ty lapped WW and still lap it good enough for good temps i have 27 idle 32 load with a barton 2500
 
The problem wasnt that it couldnt be lapped, it was the fact that the companies are shipping with dookie lap jobs, often times with dents and deep scratches.

Thanks for sharing the temps though. =)
 
i had a couple dents (near the screw holes though) and on the outside but i had a deep scratch that was right dab in the middle and took 30 mins of lapping to get MOST of the scratch gone. that was with 400 grit wet or dry.
 
I wouldn't lap it, i'd sent the thing back for an exchange because those dents can render a block useless, especially when your intention was to avoid having to lap your own block.
 
why do people not wanna lap? its not hard. maybe it's just easy for me since i work out 5 days a week for football but people talk about lapping as a huge burden. i thought it was fun to lap my own block and see it perform well knowing i did a good job on it.
 
Jibby said:
why do people not wanna lap? its not hard. maybe it's just easy for me since i work out 5 days a week for football but people talk about lapping as a huge burden. i thought it was fun to lap my own block and see it perform well knowing i did a good job on it.

What does football have to do with anything?? I wrestle 6 days a week run 3 miles each day and go on a strict diet... I still don't wanna lap because you could buy a block that is already nicely lapped and cheaper... Its just PITA!! The issue you raised is totally irrelevant.
 
hmm the worst thing that happens to me lapping is pruned fingers. and i was referring to football because i thought people didn't wanna lap cuz their arms will get tired or something. usually people who paly sports are more in shape then people who don't (unless of course they get exercize in some other form) just drop what i said b4.
 
Hey sorry if I got a lil flammy... didnt mean to. My bad... You know what... maybe Ill actually go try lapping to see how it would feel. Since my Swifty doesnt require lapping Ill go lap my intel heat sink. and see how it goes
 
ILikeMy240sx said:
Hey sorry if I got a lil flammy... didnt mean to. My bad... You know what... maybe Ill actually go try lapping to see how it would feel. Since my Swifty doesnt require lapping Ill go lap my intel heat sink. and see how it goes

I found it kind of addictive, trying to get it as smooth and shiny as possible :p After you get it flat with the rough grit, that is.

You find out REAL quick that you need to start out rough, like 100 grit if it's really out of flatness. Some people spend waaaay too much time tring to get it flat with a high grit.
 
squeakygeek said:


I found it kind of addictive, trying to get it as smooth and shiny as possible :p After you get it flat with the rough grit, that is.

You find out REAL quick that you need to start out rough, like 100 grit if it's really out of flatness. Some people spend waaaay too much time tring to get it flat with a high grit.

Wouldnt 100 grit be way too coarse?? how much time would u spend with a 100 grit.. not too much right?
 
ILikeMy240sx said:
... Nonetheless WW IS a good block no question about it

What are you talking about? This is not a good block if they cant make it good. There are some extreme quality issues here. If it performs good, then it performs good, but theres more than performance that makes a good block.


Jon
 
The more coarse grit, the more material it removes. So you start with 100, then 200, then 400 and 600 and then there is less work to be done each time. Start with 400 alone and you'll be lapping for a long time to get the whole thing flat as you are removing much less copper each time.
 
JFettig said:


What are you talking about? This is not a good block if they cant make it good. There are some extreme quality issues here. If it performs good, then it performs good, but theres more than performance that makes a good block.


Jon

Back in the day when Cathar made em they were awesome blocks. The actual concept behind it and the way it cools is very good. its just that D-Tek makes them $h!tty these days...
 
squeakygeek said:
How can it be "too coarse"?

Thats right, it would take less time to make it flat with 100 grit than with something higher.

You can remove too much material by using too coarse of grits. It is much easier to "overlap" if you use coarse grits.

This isn't a big deal with 4 hole mobo mountings, but if you are using a clip on the socket lugs to hold down your cooler then you can decrease the amount of pressure that is applied to the block.
 
IMOG said:


You can remove too much material by using too coarse of grits. It is much easier to "overlap" if you use coarse grits.

This isn't a big deal with 4 hole mobo mountings, but if you are using a clip on the socket lugs to hold down your cooler then you can decrease the amount of pressure that is applied to the block.

Yeah, you do need to pay attention. The idea is remove material until it's flat, and then start using a finer grit to make it smooth. I've read someone suggest making a grix of markings with a permanent marker, and when all of the marking are gone, then you have a flat surface. I didn't need to do this, because the first sink that I lapped was the anodized aluminum one on my 9500 pro. I'll be doing MUCH more lapping after I'm done milling my waterblocks.
 
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