crotale.. advice on vdimm modd..

flapperhead · Nov 2, 2003

well i finally finished testing my memory. 1 is a wonder stick(290 @2.8v), the other is pretty good ( 277 @2.8v).was trying to find some memory that'll run 300 @ 2.8v cause the vdimm mod on an ic7 is not an easy task, and can be destructive to the mb. but if i wanna get to 300 at 1-1 i dont see any other way... crotale, can u advise and post some info on the proper mod, cause some links are floating around that arent the correct mod... thnx flapperhead

crotale · Nov 2, 2003

Here you go flapp!
Start looking at this page (post #194). Hipro explains the right way to do it.
To be clear: The wrong way to do it is to just replace the R50 (zero Ohm resistance) with a VR.
The right way is to replace it with a 10 Ohm resistance, and then add a VR between the lower leg (closest to the winbond chip) of the new resistance to ground.
Correct pic at this page (post #203).

If it goes wrong (pads gone or something), here is a suggestion:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?postid=188186#post188186

I recommend you to look through the entire thread for pictures and more info.
Read it carefully, cause the initial values differs between the methods...

flapperhead · Nov 2, 2003

thnx a ton. ill let u know how it goes....

solo · Nov 2, 2003

ill be doing this next weekend

flapperhead · Nov 3, 2003

probably, do this at my workplace. one of the guys in my crew does component level work so everything i need is there.. maybe take some pics if it would help anyone else...

solo · Nov 4, 2003

i just did it today:

and i f'ed my board up
i got the first leg on great, but when i soldered on the second leg to the r50, i accidentally conected the 2 contact pads with a line of solder...

and it was all bad from there

no gruesome details, but my board is now missing contact pads and resistors

ill be getting a new one soon...

crotale · Nov 4, 2003

I'm sorry to hear that...

Maybe you could try the alternative solderingpoints pointed out on this page:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?postid=188186#post188186

flapperhead · Nov 4, 2003

good lord ! im gettin cold feet

hey crotale, i checked out hipro's. method and it makes sense. the 10 ohm resistor probably adds some stability to the circuit...

solo · Nov 4, 2003

not pssobible

i lost an entire resistor, the one below r50

flapperhead · Nov 9, 2003

well,l it was a no go for me. didnt have correct tools to take out such a small comonent. (r50). for the heck of it i soldered a trimmer on the r50's leg facing the windbond chips, just to see if that would work as a shortcut... that didnt work. the mb failed to boot. So i removed the trimmer and wire, put everything back to normal and fortunately the mb boots up..
hey crotale, can u recomend an affordable workstaion or micro component tool set to to do this job?

crotale · Nov 9, 2003

Sorry, I live in Sweden, so I don't know exactly what kind of equipment you have over there...
To remove it, just add a little solder to the tip of the iron.
Then, with pretty high temp, put the tip on top of the resistor. If it takes to long for the lead to melt, it's too cold. When the lead melts, try removing the iron quick. In my case, the resistor got stuck to the iron.

- Do not hold the iron on the board for a long time.
- Do not try to remove the resistor if the led isn't completetly melted, the pads will come loose that way!
- Add the wires in the position you want them in the end, so you don't have to bend them... risk of losing the pads!
- Lead the wires before trying to solder them to the pads

Just take it easy! And do not try to fix a lost pad, use the other soldering points instead!

Of course there are other ways to do this, but this is the way I think is most easy.

flapperhead · Nov 9, 2003

The resistor is just so incredibly small,without very precision tools and a powerful magnifying glass 1 false move and the mb's ruined. i may buy a refurbed ic7 from newegg if i attemp thisagain or an asus p4c800. the asus is much easier to mod. anyway thnx for the advice

solo · Nov 11, 2003

any fine tip soldering iron will do

mine was too thick, resulting in too much solder

you don't need a magnifying glass, its really easy to get r50 off, just hard to put a new one on

flapperhead · Nov 11, 2003

Ha, just got hold of our component fixer at work. he turned me on to the right tools to do the job. so this saturday im gonna try it again....... im determined to either run this memory to 300 or! break somethin!!!!!!

oh yeah almost forgot. solo if you want to send me your board I"ll see if i can repair it for you. If its unfixable the worst you lost is a couple of dollars to ship it........

solo · Nov 11, 2003

flapperhead said:
Ha, just got hold of our component fixer at work. he turned me on to the right tools to do the job. so this saturday im gonna try it again....... im determined to either run this memory to 300 or! break somethin!!!!!!

oh yeah almost forgot. solo if you want to send me your board I"ll see if i can repair it for you. If its unfixable the worst you lost is a couple of dollars to ship it........

hehe no its cool, i already got it handled

thanks for the offer

whwats a component fixer?

flapperhead · Nov 11, 2003

he's a tech in our crew that does the component level repairing of our equipment. we call him ted the "resistorhead"

solo · Nov 12, 2003

ah ok

good luck on ur vmod
keep us posted on ur results

Maglin · Nov 13, 2003

crotale said:
Here you go flapp!
Start looking at this page (post #194). Hipro explains the right way to do it.
To be clear: The wrong way to do it is to just replace the R50 (zero Ohm resistance) with a VR.
The right way is to replace it with a 10 Ohm resistance, and then add a VR between the lower leg (closest to the winbond chip) of the new resistance to ground.
Correct pic at this page (post #203).

If it goes wrong (pads gone or something), here is a suggestion:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?postid=188186#post188186

I recommend you to look through the entire thread for pictures and more info.
Read it carefully, cause the initial values differs between the methods...

Thanks for the Links.. I just finished my Volt Mod and I have some great results... I ran into some trouble as I also added 5 Fans at the same time as I also just switched to a New Case... Had some power problems and ended up ripping off the left contact pad on R50... But I was able to find alternate sources to place my wireing and it's up and running at 284 running Prime.. Before my highest stable FSB was 275.... I have my Ram at 2.86 now... I'm thinking about takeing it to 3.0 but I'm going to see where I can get where I'm currently at... If I can hit 3.5 Ghz then I think I'll just stop their as 3.4 was my initial goal when I switch over from AMD to Intel... I'm very happy now why My results...

flapperhead · Nov 13, 2003

finally!!!!!! just got finished last nite- put everything together and presto it works... ive only tested it up to 3.0v so far but theres plenty of turns left in the pot. This mod was without a doubt a pain in the a**, but now its finished... Im 1 step closer to my ultimate goal of a 2.4c oc to 3.6 with 1-1 memory.Crotale thnx again for your info and input.

ticktack · Nov 15, 2003

any sites that has detailed steps modding for IS-7E?

crotale.. advice on vdimm modd..

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