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top mounted heatercore?

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Chris of Death

Registered
Joined
Nov 8, 2003
EDIT: that should, of course, read: "top mounted heatercore?"

I'm putting together my phirst WCed system with the following components (and mad spreadsheet skillz :) ):

Components Price Shipping Vendor Linky
10 Hose Clamps (part # 5388K17) x 2 $7.80 $0.00 McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/109/html/0204.html
10ft PVC Chemical Tubing (Clearflex 60 - part # 5231K237) $6.50 $0.00 McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/109/html/0085.html#.

Black Ice Extreme II $75.99 $0.00 Directron http://www.directron.com/xtreme2.html
Hydor L30 320GPH (1200 l/h) Pump - 110/120V & 1/2" OD Fittings $46.99 $0.00 Directron http://www.directron.com/pumpl30.html
Arctic Silver 5 (thermal compound) $5.99 $8.63 Directron http://store.yahoo.com/directron/35grams.html

Criticool Waterplant Dimensions - 2.5" width x 4.0" length (reservoir) $22.95 $0.00 Sidewinder Computers http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercomputers/waterplant.html
Criticool Powerplant II (pump relay) $25.95 $4.35 Sidewinder Computers http://store.yahoo.com/sidewindercomputers/crpo.html

D-Tek Whitewater CPU block $49.99 $8.65 D-Tek Customs http://www.dtekcustoms.com/product.asp?0=204&1=209&3=106

Danger Den Maze4 GPU block $39.95 $6.57 Danger Den http://www.dangerden.com/mall/blocks/maze4gpu.asp

Total $282.11 $28.20 (shipping)

Grand Total $310.31
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First off, what do you guys think of the specs?

My primary question deals with the rad and rad placement. From perusing this forum and a few others, I've come to the conclusion that the BIX2 is somewhat overpriced for the performance :p. I've been convinced that a heater core is the way to go, and I had some Qs about which is best. I found this puppy at rockauto.com:

Detail.html


I was thinking of top mounting it on it's side, so it would appear like a shark's fin on the top of my case (one of those Chieftec/Antec midtower clones that seem to be so popular). My primary question: Is this even a good idea? Is it feasible? The specs are 9 1/2" x 6 1/8" x 2", does this include the length the fittings extend off the heater core? If not, this probably ain't gonna work, as I only have about 10 1/2" of space between the PSU and the front bezel that I can *actually* utilize for tubing and such. So if I'm on the crack, I'm open to other heater core suggestions, preferably one that can accomodate dual 120mm fans.

I welcome any and all comments and suggestions about the system and requisite placement. If I've overlooked anything, or made some stupid mistake in my calculations, please, please, please don't be shy: feel free to tear me a constructive new one :) .

Thanks in advance.

Chris
 
the 9 1/2" probably includes the tanks, though I'm not positive. That looks like it might be a single pass heater core. I believe those are supposed to be less restrictive, or so it seems in URL=http://forum.oc-forums.com/showthread.php?threadid=244551&highlight=caprice]this[/URL] thread, than the caprice core everyone seems to use (2-302). You don't mind hurting your flow, you could always slap some 90 degree barbs on the heater core if you think you're going to be low on space up top.
If space really is going to be a problem, why not just go with a chevette heater core?

I might use a T-Line instead of a resevoir. The rest of the setup looks great though. I've got the same pump, WB's, and relay. I'm very happy with them.

I would suggest keeping some silicon sealent and adhesive (such as Goop) on hand. If you don't plan on taking your barbs off, I'd Goop them into place so they don't accidently come off. Otherwise I'd get some teflon tape from mcmaster to put on the barb threads.
 
i as well say get rid of the black ice and get a chevy chevette heatercore for like 18 bucks at a hardware store

the relay isnt nessacary and IMO a waste of money
 
feyd83 said:
the 9 1/2" probably includes the tanks, though I'm not positive. ...
Actually, the area listed by the manufacturer is almost always the area of the fins. The top and bottom tanks will definitely add to the length of the core.
 
u know what dude, you'll be paying a lot in shipping that way. why don't u justget the kit from D-Tek. comes with everything, rad, res, hose, clamps, and pump, ect
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/product.asp?3=102
even when upgraded to the top (ehiem 1250 and WW waterblock) its only 250, i wish i got this instead of scattered upgrades probably costing me over 350+
 
Cool. Thanks for the responses, guys.

Silversinksam: :thup:

feyd83: I assume you're using a heater core as well? I just want to maximize cooling performance for my money, and I was thinking a larger, single-pass heater core would be the way to go. In general, more surface area + less flow restriction = better cooling, right? I have a drill, but not a dremel or hole saw, and I've become sort of enamoured with the idea of this side-mounted rad.

trip0d: Agreed on the rad. What do you think of the one pictured? I like the idea of the relay, but I may reconsider if it the $$ isn't there.

Skulemate: Which heater core do you have? Could you take a quick measurement of the amount the top/bottom tanks extend past the length of the core? If it's more than 1/2" or so, I think I'd probably have to detach the face plate and dangle one of the fittings off the front of the case, drill a hole through the top drive cover, and thread the tubing through that way. It'd look a little more ghetto, but what the hell.

Korndog: Shipping is a killer, I know. But I've already specced things out, and since my, personal 'kit' comes with a relay, larger rad, thermal compound, extra tubing and clamps, and a GPU block, it is a much better price, overall, than the D-Tek kit, if not, perhaps, a better value.

I'm still interested in any other comments that other folks might have. I haven't seen anybody attempt to mount a rad in the way I've detailed above, and if there's a good reason, besides looks, not to do so, I'd rather hear them now, while I still have a working computer :p .
 
Chris of Death said:
...
Skulemate: Which heater core do you have? Could you take a quick measurement of the amount the top/bottom tanks extend past the length of the core? If it's more than 1/2" or so, I think I'd probably have to detach the face plate and dangle one of the fittings off the front of the case, drill a hole through the top drive cover, and thread the tubing through that way. It'd look a little more ghetto, but what the hell. ...
I have a GM 8201 heater core, which has a fin area of 9.5"x5.5". The top and bottom tanks increase this length to about 10.625", making it a bit long for your purposes. And just in case you are interested keep in mind that this core is two pass.
 
Cool! I was being a little conservative in my original estimation, so it may actually fit, if the dimensions between yours and this one are the same. I found another pic of it:

280.jpg
 
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