My Temperatures SUCK

Nanidin · Nov 11, 2003

Just thought I'd let you know. I'm running my 1700+ at 2.2ghz for the moment. I have an ambient of 24C. My load is 53C.

I am running: Homemade #rotor block, chevette heatercore in a pushpull setup @ 75cfm and shrouded, eheim 1250. I need to get a measure of my water temperature to figure out why this is so fubarred. I think right now that my problem is either A: A bad mount B: Bad application of AS5(yes, I might have not put enough on there) or C: Both A and B. I used to be running 200x12 with a 49 load at maximum which was tolerable but still kinda crappy. Any suggestions? I'm considering building another WB with a very thin base to compare. I'm not sure exactly how thick mine is right now.

hafa · Nov 12, 2003

Unless your pump is malfunctioning, you should be able to run 10c or less above ambient with that rad, pump and fan setup.

This may be sacreligious, but you may wish to do a comparison with a commercially produced waterblock. That at least would remove that variable from the equation.

rugbyroy · Nov 12, 2003

First, reseat the waterblock. Second, let's see a pic of your wb. Your temps seem way off for water cooling with that setup. What's your Vcore at as well?

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

my vcore is 1.75... i used to be able to boot 2.4 perfectly at 1.725, but now I can only boot 2.2 @ 1.75 volts.

I don't think my pump is malfunctioning, it sounds normal and it sure moved those bubbles fast when bleeding

.

I have a T-Line. It is capped with a rubber stopper. Where the rubber stopper is in contact with the tube, the tube is yellow (wtf?).

My waterblock is JB welded shut. Another reason I might just make another one. I don't really want to buy a waterblock. If I had one on hand I'd use it.

I'm going to reseat my WB again. And have another go with this thicker than old toothpaste AS5 lol.

I have no kinks in my system. No 90 degree bends. There is, however; a white film over all of my tubes, apparently from my Zerex crap from cooltechnica. I would move to hy-per-lube but no one in the KC area that I'm in has it. This could affect my performance, but I dont think it would be this bad.

I'm applying about 21lbs of force to hold my WB down via springs and bolts.

Soja · Nov 12, 2003

Are you using vinyl tubing? In my own experience, it often turns yellow and hardens like you described but since it's at the stopper it shouldn't be a problem. What block or cooling were you using before to get 2.4 @ 1.725v?

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

I am using clearflex-60. All that I changed in my system that could have caused this are : remounting to apply AS5(from PCM+), and changing my coolant mixture. I emptied and refilled my system with a mixture of less Zerex and less Isopropyl Alcohol. Basically I emptied everything but the heatercore then filled it with water and added a little bit of Zerex.

Soja · Nov 12, 2003

Remount that sucker

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

I hope that is the only problem. Making another WB won't be too much of a problem Just time consuming. I think I have used 3 mounts. My best yielded a load of 44C. Is there a trick to getting a good mount using the spring method?

I will get a picture of mine. I think that my springs may be to big around, which causes the edges to hang over the endge of the block. This could cause uneven pressure, I'm guessing.

I need to try to get ahold of some more thermal probes. I can atleast get a rough estimate of my water temperature.

ILikeMy240sx · Nov 12, 2003

all bubbles are gone?

Soja · Nov 12, 2003

I just use a cross pattern when tightening those springs. I've never really seen much temp difference with multiple mounts accept once where the block was actually sitting on the plastic of the socket

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

ILikeMy240sx said:
all bubbles are gone?

All bubbles in the lines are gone. When I turnit off, there are no bubbles to be found. I suppose there is the possibility that they're hiding somewhere but most likely not

JFettig · Nov 12, 2003

What motherboard is it on?

You might want to find other springs that are .2" or .25" in diameter and much stiffer, that way you can controll how much pressure you put on it. the springs shoudl take pretty much all you got to squeeze them between your index finger and thumb unless your quite a bit larger than me

Jon

omaticrail · Nov 12, 2003

JFettig said:
...the springs shoudl take pretty much all you got to squeeze them between your index finger and thumb unless your quite a bit larger than me...

This cannot be right, if I'm reading it correctly. I freely admit that I'm no expert on mountings, but I can squeeze at least 20 pounds worth of force between index finger and thumb, and I'm kind of a lightweight. Now, multiply that by 4 springs, and you got 80 pounds of force on the processor.

Call me crazy, but I get the distinct impression that having the average 12-year-old kid stand on your heat-sink to hold it in place........would be bad.

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

I think he's saying to use the stronger springs with less turns. My springs are easy to compress at about 8lbs/inch. Mine are about .25 in diameter, I might put some washers on the waterblock so that the entire spring is in contact. More even contact at least.

Ven0m · Nov 12, 2003

Use high force pressing block to CPU.
Rotor block has its weigh and tubes will also pull block down, so it may not stick to CPU nice.

Also make sure your block is lapped in proper way it should not only be shiny, but also flat

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

How long should it take to lap. And will it be shiny when looking directly at it? Mine is very shiny when you look at it from an angle but straight on it is not.

Ven0m · Nov 12, 2003

Having it shiny is not so important (to make it really shiny, you'd need to lap it up to grit 600 and if there will be no effect, switch to 1k, lap till you can't get more on 1k and then 2k grit).

Important is mostly flatness.
So lap it on possibly perfect flat surface, with some sleeving, like using dish washing liquids, moving block in one direction only.

I've told about flatness, becasue it's sometiems not a s good as should be in DIY setups. Make sure that pressing force is high too.

Don't apply too much force if you don't have any backplate on your mobo and you're using these holes. Socket can resist pretty much force tho.

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

I lapped on top of a piece of glass, I'm pretty sure it's flat. Have yet to find time enough to get in there and remount.

Ven0m · Nov 12, 2003

Till then at least apply possibly high & safe pressure and make sure that tubing isn't pulling this block too much - it may help without any need to remount / lap stuff.

Nanidin · Nov 12, 2003

Alright, thank you for the advice. I had not thougth about the tubes pulling.

My Temperatures SUCK

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