rad. mounted on top ~ maybe bad idea

i was thinking about mounting my radiator on top of my case.. if my image of the inside of my dtek heatercore is right, the radiator will not fill up all the way when mounted horizonaly.. i think.
i would guess that it would fill up about a 1cm or something or higher if there was a higher waterflow (may create whirlpool, and pool in air which would be replaced by water)
i might be wrong, but i wanted to ask before cutting out a 192mm square out of my case, heh

mine's mounted sideways and all the air seems to have found it's way out.... i suppose if you are concerned you could always fill your system while it's laying on it's side.

well, the thing is, i'm mounting it (bolting it basicly) on top, its going to be pretty permanent because i plan on moving it around a bit (lan parties )
and if i ever deceied on refilling my system for some reason.. u get the point..

bump

Is there any reason to put it at the top? Why not take out one of the harddrive bays and put it at the front? Thats what I did.

thats how i have mine now.
i don't really mind taking out my hard drive bay, but the way i have it set up, if the outtake fans at the end of my case don't push out enough air, my raditor starts circulating air inside the case. its hard to explain, but basicly the inside of my case is hot, and i need more exaust fans, but that would make my case louder.
if i put my radiator on top, it can act like another exaust fan, probably fixing all my problems. As well as gaining the ability of running pumpless when my pump dies. to top it all off, my case will look roomy.

I find that I like mine in the front because the fan blows air directly on the Nb, sb and videocard. I actualy got better temps then when I had it external. Even though its warm air(shouldnt be more than luke-warm) it will still cool other things.

pull off the front bezel and fill in the space between the rad and bezel with foam or something, then put the bezel back on so it can't pull air from the inside of your case, that's what I did

you could put a t-line right before the rad input then turn your comp on its face/back(?) so your rad is upright while filling. You should be able to bleed all the air out in this manner.